1
00:00:08,687 --> 00:00:14,523
I'm higher than 5,000 metres
in the Peruvian Andes
2
00:00:14,567 --> 00:00:17,001
and feeling the altitude
a little bit,
3
00:00:17,047 --> 00:00:19,607
making my way to the start point
4
00:00:19,647 --> 00:00:24,675
of what is gonna become
the most extraordinary journey.
5
00:00:31,727 --> 00:00:34,844
I can hear it,
I can certainly hear it.
6
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Oh, my God!
7
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This is it.
8
00:00:44,327 --> 00:00:48,525
This trickle of water
coming out of the rock here
9
00:00:48,607 --> 00:00:52,919
is the source of the mightiest river
in the world,
10
00:00:52,967 --> 00:00:54,958
the Amazon, of course.
11
00:00:55,007 --> 00:00:57,680
That is just spectacular.
12
00:00:58,927 --> 00:01:01,999
I'm going to follow
the greatest river on Earth
13
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from the source to the sea,
from the High Andes of Peru
14
00:01:06,327 --> 00:01:09,683
to its vast mouth
on Brazil's Atlantic coast.
15
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Now I can feel the mighty
strength of this river.
16
00:01:13,487 --> 00:01:16,399
I'll be travelling
for thousands of miles,
17
00:01:16,447 --> 00:01:19,837
through the largest unbroken
tropical forest in the world...
18
00:01:19,887 --> 00:01:22,685
This is the best view of the forest
I've ever, ever had.
19
00:01:22,727 --> 00:01:26,037
...To explore the lives
of the Amazon's people...
20
00:01:26,087 --> 00:01:29,796
I've never in my life
had a greeting like this before.
21
00:01:29,847 --> 00:01:33,522
...The tribes fighting for
their land beneath the canopy.
22
00:01:33,567 --> 00:01:37,116
They have decided they don't
want me in the house.
23
00:01:37,167 --> 00:01:40,842
And the loggers, the miners,
and the cattle ranchers
24
00:01:40,887 --> 00:01:43,162
that are tearing it down.
25
00:01:48,447 --> 00:01:51,678
As you can see it's just this
huge expanse of destruction.
26
00:01:51,727 --> 00:01:54,446
Oh, my God! I think we've found it.
27
00:01:54,487 --> 00:01:56,876
The Amazon is a complex place.
28
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There are more species here
than anywhere else on Earth,
29
00:02:01,087 --> 00:02:03,396
but it's also home
to millions of people.
30
00:02:04,407 --> 00:02:08,320
We've just flown over
completely illegal clear felling.
31
00:02:09,887 --> 00:02:12,799
This is the frontline
in an environmental war.
32
00:02:12,847 --> 00:02:13,996
(SINGING)
33
00:02:14,047 --> 00:02:18,120
Tensions are running high
and already blood has been spilled.
34
00:02:18,167 --> 00:02:20,806
I want to tell the stories
of the people
35
00:02:20,847 --> 00:02:22,838
that live in this amazing place,
36
00:02:22,887 --> 00:02:24,036
to share their lives.
37
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That hurt.
38
00:02:26,207 --> 00:02:29,995
And to understand how they will
shape the future of the Amazon.
39
00:02:40,647 --> 00:02:42,319
My journey begins here.
40
00:02:42,367 --> 00:02:46,997
This is Nevado Mismi,
the source of the Amazon.
41
00:02:47,047 --> 00:02:50,005
It's a spring of glacial meltwater,
42
00:02:50,047 --> 00:02:55,565
bursting from a rock face at
5,500 metres in the High Andes.
43
00:02:55,607 --> 00:02:57,086
Mismi was finally named
44
00:02:57,127 --> 00:03:00,437
as the official source
of the Amazon in 2000,
45
00:03:00,487 --> 00:03:04,321
after decades of debate,
when a mapping team confirmed
46
00:03:04,367 --> 00:03:07,723
that this was the furthest point
of the Amazon from its mouth,
47
00:03:07,767 --> 00:03:10,998
nearly 4,000 miles away in Brazil.
48
00:03:11,047 --> 00:03:14,517
It's a barren, arid,
breathtaking location,
49
00:03:14,567 --> 00:03:19,163
just the sort of place
to start an epicjourney.
50
00:03:19,207 --> 00:03:23,485
I've no idea how long this
journey's gonna take me.
51
00:03:23,527 --> 00:03:26,599
But I reckon at least six months.
52
00:03:27,807 --> 00:03:32,278
And I'm going to have lots
of different forms of transport
53
00:03:32,327 --> 00:03:34,079
on my way to the ocean,
54
00:03:34,127 --> 00:03:39,155
but I'm really pleased
that this first bit is by foot.
55
00:03:39,207 --> 00:03:41,880
Amazingly there are lots
of people that live,
56
00:03:41,927 --> 00:03:44,077
even at this altitude, in the Andes
57
00:03:44,127 --> 00:03:48,405
and there's someone who lives round
the corner and that's my first stop.
58
00:03:50,247 --> 00:03:53,557
This first part of my journey
will be tough and dangerous,
59
00:03:53,607 --> 00:03:56,963
dominated by the illegal trade
in cocaine.
60
00:03:57,967 --> 00:04:01,164
Nevado Mismi is
in the south of Peru,
61
00:04:01,207 --> 00:04:04,119
700 miles from the capital, Lima.
62
00:04:04,167 --> 00:04:07,079
The Amazon flows north
through Peru
63
00:04:07,127 --> 00:04:10,278
and then swings east
through the jungles of Brazil,
64
00:04:10,327 --> 00:04:12,761
until it reaches the Atlantic.
65
00:04:12,807 --> 00:04:14,877
I'll follow the river
most of the time,
66
00:04:14,927 --> 00:04:17,236
but I'll also head off
into the forest
67
00:04:17,287 --> 00:04:20,484
to hear the stories
of the people who live there.
68
00:04:20,527 --> 00:04:23,485
From the source,
the river tumbles down
69
00:04:23,527 --> 00:04:25,836
through steep mountain gorges
70
00:04:25,887 --> 00:04:28,447
to the cloud forest
and the Apurimac Valley,
71
00:04:28,487 --> 00:04:32,719
Peru's most volatile
cocaine-producing area.
72
00:04:32,767 --> 00:04:35,600
From here the river flows
into the rainforest
73
00:04:35,647 --> 00:04:38,764
and the homeland of
the Ashaninka people.
74
00:04:44,167 --> 00:04:46,727
The cocaine trade is tearing
these valleys apart.
75
00:04:46,767 --> 00:04:51,283
I'll meet the people who make it and
those who are fighting against it.
76
00:04:53,527 --> 00:04:58,282
It's October 2007
and the wet season is approaching.
77
00:05:00,087 --> 00:05:04,956
I've been trekking just a couple of
hours, come down maybe 400 metres,
78
00:05:05,007 --> 00:05:09,717
I'm still above the height
of Mont Blanc in Europe.
79
00:05:09,767 --> 00:05:12,406
This area is home to the Quechuan,
80
00:05:12,447 --> 00:05:16,156
tough mountain people who scratch
a living from this barren land
81
00:05:16,207 --> 00:05:18,562
by herding llamas and alpacas.
82
00:05:18,607 --> 00:05:22,566
I've arranged to spend a few days
with Rodolfo and his family.
83
00:05:22,607 --> 00:05:25,280
They live just six from hours' walk
from the source
84
00:05:25,327 --> 00:05:29,002
and so for me,
are the first people of the Amazon.
85
00:05:30,887 --> 00:05:32,718
Buenas noches!
86
00:05:34,487 --> 00:05:36,159
Buenas noches.
87
00:05:36,207 --> 00:05:38,084
Rodolfo. Como esta, Bruce?
88
00:05:40,927 --> 00:05:42,042
Nice to meet you.
89
00:05:48,647 --> 00:05:51,320
Gladys, gracias.
90
00:05:51,367 --> 00:05:53,961
Wow, look at that!
91
00:05:54,007 --> 00:05:58,239
What a wonderful reception!
Muchas gracias!
92
00:05:58,287 --> 00:05:59,720
Muchas gracias, senor.
93
00:06:03,127 --> 00:06:06,517
Rodolfo lives here with his wife,
Gladys, his mother and father
94
00:06:06,567 --> 00:06:08,398
and his little son Iker.
95
00:06:08,447 --> 00:06:12,406
His daughter Rosemary is back
from university for a visit.
96
00:06:23,487 --> 00:06:24,966
Muchas gracias.
97
00:06:26,647 --> 00:06:29,207
It's freezing up here.
98
00:06:29,247 --> 00:06:33,923
Everyone sleeps in one room, and
the whole family is sharing a bed.
99
00:06:33,967 --> 00:06:38,040
As I'm a guest they're not taking
any chances on me getting cold.
100
00:06:39,087 --> 00:06:42,124
Lots of blankets being used here.
101
00:06:42,167 --> 00:06:44,920
I think I might have
the lion's share,
102
00:06:44,967 --> 00:06:47,197
but there's certainly no shortage.
103
00:07:01,087 --> 00:07:05,205
Llamas and alpacas make life
at this altitude possible.
104
00:07:06,767 --> 00:07:09,486
It's too high to grow crops,
105
00:07:09,527 --> 00:07:12,758
but llamas and alpacas thrive
in the thin air.
106
00:07:12,807 --> 00:07:15,560
Over the centuries,
trading routes have developed,
107
00:07:15,607 --> 00:07:19,520
with wool and meat being bartered
for goods from the valleys below.
108
00:07:27,247 --> 00:07:31,843
The Quechuan people have lived
in these mountains for centuries.
109
00:07:31,887 --> 00:07:34,196
They're the descendants
of the Inca people
110
00:07:34,247 --> 00:07:37,239
and the old beliefs
are still strong.
111
00:07:37,287 --> 00:07:39,357
Today is a special day.
112
00:07:39,407 --> 00:07:43,719
Rodolfo is shearing the alpacas
for the first time this season
113
00:07:43,767 --> 00:07:47,442
and an offering must be made
to Pachamama or Mother Earth.
114
00:07:53,807 --> 00:07:58,005
Quechuans revere Pachamama
above all other deities.
115
00:07:58,047 --> 00:08:01,483
She is the fertility goddess,
the bringer of plenty.
116
00:08:01,527 --> 00:08:02,721
Pachamama.
117
00:08:02,767 --> 00:08:07,124
First Pachamama, Mother Earth,
little bit.
118
00:08:07,167 --> 00:08:09,362
OK then, little bit for me.
119
00:08:11,807 --> 00:08:13,718
And then for the alpaca.
120
00:08:18,687 --> 00:08:21,918
Although Rodolfo and his family
are devout Catholics,
121
00:08:21,967 --> 00:08:25,880
they believe it is Pachamama
who puts food on the table.
122
00:08:31,447 --> 00:08:33,438
They ask for a blessing from Mismi,
123
00:08:33,487 --> 00:08:36,445
the mountain from which
the Amazon flows.
124
00:08:48,487 --> 00:08:52,116
These are coca leaves,
the raw ingredient for cocaine.
125
00:08:52,167 --> 00:08:54,237
They're used throughout
the High Andes
126
00:08:54,287 --> 00:08:56,562
to fight the effects
of altitude sickness
127
00:08:56,607 --> 00:08:58,916
and to stave off hunger and thirst.
128
00:08:59,967 --> 00:09:04,757
Used in this traditional way,
coca is legal in Peru.
129
00:09:04,807 --> 00:09:07,719
So this again is for Pachamama,
which is Mother Earth,
130
00:09:07,767 --> 00:09:11,237
and I'm going to place it here,
the three leaves,
131
00:09:11,287 --> 00:09:13,084
in this soil here.
132
00:09:13,127 --> 00:09:16,085
To the Quechuan,
coca is a gift from the gods,
133
00:09:16,127 --> 00:09:20,279
a sacred leaf that must be treated
with the utmost respect.
134
00:09:20,327 --> 00:09:22,887
With a wad of bitter leaves
packed in my cheek,
135
00:09:22,927 --> 00:09:24,519
it's time for work.
136
00:09:31,927 --> 00:09:33,565
(ALPACA SQUEALS)
Woo!
137
00:09:38,087 --> 00:09:41,204
(SQUEALING CONTINUES)
138
00:09:41,247 --> 00:09:43,761
This poor alpaca's
making a bit of a squeal,
139
00:09:43,807 --> 00:09:46,719
but it's only because
they're sensitive animals,
140
00:09:46,767 --> 00:09:50,203
there's no pain here, he's
obviously just having his hair cut,
141
00:09:50,247 --> 00:09:53,842
but, of course this other than the
dung of the sheep and the alpaca
142
00:09:53,887 --> 00:09:56,640
is pretty much their only cash crop.
143
00:10:01,727 --> 00:10:07,757
The sun's warm, the radio's on,
and the alpacas are being sheared.
144
00:10:07,807 --> 00:10:10,446
Life is good in the High Andes.
145
00:10:29,207 --> 00:10:32,438
Como esta? Buenito. Buenito.
146
00:10:32,487 --> 00:10:34,443
Este es tuyo.
147
00:10:34,487 --> 00:10:37,604
Rodolfo and Gladys
give me an alpaca.
148
00:10:37,647 --> 00:10:38,921
Give it to you a present.
149
00:10:38,967 --> 00:10:42,437
No, you can't do that.
150
00:10:42,487 --> 00:10:45,479
This family just goes on and on,
they're so generous.
151
00:10:45,527 --> 00:10:47,961
Obviously I'm not gonna
take it away with me,
152
00:10:48,007 --> 00:10:54,196
but even just as a...just as
a token, it's a lovely gesture,
153
00:10:54,247 --> 00:10:56,044
and so they've asked me to name it.
154
00:10:56,087 --> 00:10:57,236
I said I'd call it Mismi
155
00:10:57,287 --> 00:11:01,121
after the mountain where
the spring of the Amazon is,
156
00:11:01,167 --> 00:11:02,680
which they all know very well.
157
00:11:03,487 --> 00:11:05,398
Oi, che, che, che, che.
158
00:11:06,167 --> 00:11:10,046
It's hard physical work
in the thin air.
159
00:11:10,087 --> 00:11:13,716
The family has very little,
but shares everything.
160
00:11:14,487 --> 00:11:18,719
Not a single E number, preservative
or additive or anything like that,
161
00:11:18,767 --> 00:11:21,156
it's just straight from the land.
162
00:11:22,207 --> 00:11:23,720
And it tastes like it. Wow.
163
00:11:23,767 --> 00:11:26,406
Yeah!
164
00:11:26,447 --> 00:11:29,166
(BRUCE LAUGHS)
165
00:11:29,207 --> 00:11:31,562
< Rapido!
166
00:11:31,607 --> 00:11:35,043
(THEY TALK IN SPANISH)
167
00:11:35,087 --> 00:11:38,636
If only every kid would finish
their food like that.
168
00:11:38,687 --> 00:11:40,405
That's amazing.
169
00:11:40,447 --> 00:11:42,324
Well done! He didn't even want it.
170
00:11:42,367 --> 00:11:44,358
Then we said,
''You've got to finish it.''
171
00:11:44,407 --> 00:11:47,638
''All right!'' and he just ate the lot
and slurped down the remains.
172
00:11:47,687 --> 00:11:50,360
What a good kid.
173
00:11:50,407 --> 00:11:51,681
Well done.
174
00:11:59,527 --> 00:12:03,918
I'm only here for a few days,
but I want to earn my keep.
175
00:12:03,967 --> 00:12:07,482
Rodolfo takes me
to collect firewood.
176
00:12:07,527 --> 00:12:12,999
Back home, I just turn on a switch
to get my central heating,
177
00:12:13,047 --> 00:12:16,596
but Rodolfo's family's
got to do this all year round.
178
00:12:20,967 --> 00:12:23,959
I can safely say
that of the three of us,
179
00:12:24,007 --> 00:12:26,521
I've certainly done the least work.
180
00:12:40,447 --> 00:12:45,043
He supplements the family's diet
with trout from the nearby stream.
181
00:12:51,287 --> 00:12:52,276
Hey!
182
00:12:52,327 --> 00:12:54,887
(IKER SHOUTS)
183
00:12:59,367 --> 00:13:00,846
For you, in your tummy. Yeah?
184
00:13:00,887 --> 00:13:02,718
Come, no? Come?
185
00:13:11,927 --> 00:13:14,680
It's time to bring the llamas
in for the night.
186
00:13:14,727 --> 00:13:16,399
I'm tired but happy.
187
00:13:18,687 --> 00:13:21,963
Just being with them, the fun.
188
00:13:22,007 --> 00:13:24,726
It's just, everything that's gone on
189
00:13:24,767 --> 00:13:28,919
has been full of smiles
and happiness and friendship.
190
00:13:28,967 --> 00:13:30,923
Out fishing and finally,
191
00:13:30,967 --> 00:13:34,482
even, taking the alpacas home
is a dream.
192
00:13:34,527 --> 00:13:36,165
They know where they're going,
193
00:13:36,207 --> 00:13:39,358
I'm just kind of strolling behind,
enjoying the scenery.
194
00:13:39,407 --> 00:13:43,764
It's just extraordinary, I've had
the nicest day you can imagine.
195
00:14:05,687 --> 00:14:07,678
Like parents everywhere,
196
00:14:07,727 --> 00:14:11,720
Rodolfo and Gladys want something
better for their kids.
197
00:14:39,087 --> 00:14:40,918
When you have finished your study,
198
00:14:40,967 --> 00:14:43,640
will you come back and live here
in the High Andes?
199
00:15:03,327 --> 00:15:06,080
The next morning,
Rodolfo kills a sheep.
200
00:15:06,127 --> 00:15:09,324
He'll sell the fleece for food.
201
00:15:09,367 --> 00:15:11,517
The blood is allowed
to soak into the earth.
202
00:15:11,567 --> 00:15:15,003
Pachamama is asked for her blessing.
203
00:15:15,047 --> 00:15:17,925
It's nearly time for me to move on.
204
00:15:17,967 --> 00:15:20,561
Rodolfo and his family
have agreed to accompany me
205
00:15:20,607 --> 00:15:23,644
for the first part of my journey
through the mountains.
206
00:15:23,687 --> 00:15:25,882
Ourjourney must be blessed.
207
00:15:39,967 --> 00:15:41,480
Yeah, gracias.
208
00:15:47,047 --> 00:15:51,006
I give thanks for the extraordinary
opportunity I have for being here
209
00:15:51,047 --> 00:15:52,958
amongst these wonderful people.
210
00:15:53,007 --> 00:15:56,124
And please bless my journey
for the next six months
211
00:15:56,167 --> 00:15:58,840
and all the people
that I meet along the way,
212
00:15:58,887 --> 00:16:03,278
but most especially
I want to bless this family
213
00:16:03,327 --> 00:16:06,797
and give them health
and happiness for ever more.
214
00:16:08,447 --> 00:16:11,996
And bless the animals
that take us on ourjourney.
215
00:16:12,047 --> 00:16:15,756
(BELLS CLATTER)
216
00:16:17,607 --> 00:16:19,677
(RODOLFO WHISTLES)
217
00:16:19,727 --> 00:16:24,039
Suddenly a dust devil
whirls through the enclosure.
218
00:16:25,087 --> 00:16:28,159
Perhaps Pachamama
has answered our prayers.
219
00:16:28,207 --> 00:16:30,767
Tomorrow we'll be on our way.
220
00:16:43,767 --> 00:16:46,884
Ugh! Blanco! Blanco!
221
00:16:46,927 --> 00:16:49,316
Blanco, blanco.
222
00:16:51,127 --> 00:16:53,197
Oh, my lord!
223
00:16:57,327 --> 00:16:59,079
For me?
224
00:16:59,127 --> 00:17:00,196
Oh, muchas gracias.
225
00:17:04,647 --> 00:17:06,683
I'll need that this morning
I tell you.
226
00:17:06,727 --> 00:17:08,797
Can't beat it, bit of coca tea.
227
00:17:09,807 --> 00:17:13,686
Hot coca tea in the morning with
a bit of sugar, it's delightful.
228
00:17:13,727 --> 00:17:16,400
We need it, cos we've got
a long journey ahead of us.
229
00:17:31,687 --> 00:17:33,166
Hola, amigo.
230
00:17:33,207 --> 00:17:35,038
Hiya. Hiya.
231
00:17:35,087 --> 00:17:38,079
We set off in high spirits,
232
00:17:38,127 --> 00:17:42,405
a caravan of llamas and donkeys
following an ancient trail.
233
00:17:42,447 --> 00:17:44,642
Llama, llama.
234
00:17:44,687 --> 00:17:47,121
Shut. Llama, llama.
235
00:17:49,807 --> 00:17:52,367
Llama, llama.
236
00:17:52,407 --> 00:17:54,682
Ch! Ch!
237
00:18:02,287 --> 00:18:07,520
This view from here is unbelievable.
238
00:18:07,567 --> 00:18:11,196
The snow might be melting
but our spirits certainly aren't.
239
00:18:11,247 --> 00:18:14,523
We've already climbed quite a lot
and we're all feeling strong,
240
00:18:14,567 --> 00:18:17,798
so that's what coca tea does
for you in the morning.
241
00:18:24,327 --> 00:18:27,205
These paths have been used
since Incan times,
242
00:18:27,247 --> 00:18:29,966
trading goods up and down the Andes,
243
00:18:30,007 --> 00:18:33,317
potatoes, corn, coca leaves.
244
00:18:38,367 --> 00:18:41,564
Llama, llama! Llama!
245
00:18:41,607 --> 00:18:43,279
Come on.
246
00:18:43,327 --> 00:18:44,885
(BRUCE CLICKS TONGUE)
247
00:19:29,087 --> 00:19:32,921
(THUNDER RUMBLES)
248
00:19:40,727 --> 00:19:42,922
Ch! Ch!
249
00:19:42,967 --> 00:19:46,596
God, we've had the most epic day.
250
00:19:46,647 --> 00:19:51,198
Beautiful start, snow to start, in
glorious sunshine going up the hill.
251
00:19:51,247 --> 00:19:54,478
It's only right really
that it's gonna finish
252
00:19:54,527 --> 00:19:58,315
on a thunder and lightning storm
at the end of the day. Waaa...
253
00:20:18,207 --> 00:20:20,721
I thought we'd be sleeping
out in the rain.
254
00:20:20,767 --> 00:20:24,396
Might have a tin roof,
but it'll do us. Fantastic.
255
00:20:24,447 --> 00:20:27,484
As night falls
and the weather closes in,
256
00:20:27,527 --> 00:20:30,325
we stop in an abandoned house.
257
00:20:30,367 --> 00:20:34,485
Life is hard in these high mountains
and many people are leaving,
258
00:20:34,527 --> 00:20:36,995
looking for good land
and better weather
259
00:20:37,047 --> 00:20:39,959
in the valleys and forests below.
260
00:20:42,047 --> 00:20:44,117
The climate here is changing fast,
261
00:20:44,167 --> 00:20:47,204
the glaciers of the High Andes
are retreating.
262
00:20:47,247 --> 00:20:49,317
Life will only get tougher.
263
00:20:54,847 --> 00:20:57,805
You're an amazing man
and your family are extraordinary
264
00:20:57,847 --> 00:20:59,360
and thank you for everything.
265
00:20:59,407 --> 00:21:02,285
- And I'll always remember you.
- Gracias, Bruce.
266
00:21:02,327 --> 00:21:04,477
Safe journey home!
267
00:21:04,527 --> 00:21:07,644
I'll be thinking of you.
Muchas gracias.
268
00:21:07,687 --> 00:21:10,485
(SOBBING)
269
00:21:18,167 --> 00:21:20,601
Ciao, ciao, Bruce!
270
00:21:20,647 --> 00:21:23,400
Ciao, ciao.
271
00:21:27,727 --> 00:21:31,197
I'm leaving this family to continue
my journey down the Amazon.
272
00:21:31,247 --> 00:21:33,442
I've only known them a few days,
273
00:21:33,487 --> 00:21:37,526
but I've been touched
by their generosity and dignity.
274
00:21:37,567 --> 00:21:42,960
I hope I can take something of their
attitude with me on my travels.
275
00:21:45,847 --> 00:21:47,565
We've had the nicest weather
276
00:21:47,607 --> 00:21:50,360
and the canyon started out
really wide
277
00:21:50,407 --> 00:21:53,285
and it's just been getting
narrower and narrower.
278
00:21:53,327 --> 00:21:55,522
Been following this beautiful river
279
00:21:55,567 --> 00:21:57,876
and as the canyon
has been getting narrower,
280
00:21:57,927 --> 00:22:00,282
of course the river's been
getting narrower.
281
00:22:00,327 --> 00:22:04,115
And here, finally,
I think the river is deep enough
282
00:22:04,167 --> 00:22:08,399
that I'm gonna be able to put a boat
into it and I can't wait.
283
00:22:10,367 --> 00:22:12,323
Fed by the melting glaciers,
284
00:22:12,367 --> 00:22:15,359
the river plunges down
through the mountains,
285
00:22:15,407 --> 00:22:19,036
gathering strength
as it rushes through steep gorges,
286
00:22:19,087 --> 00:22:24,286
nearly two miles deep,
twice the size of the Grand Canyon.
287
00:22:24,327 --> 00:22:29,481
In just 300 miles,
the river drops 13,000 feet,
288
00:22:29,527 --> 00:22:32,121
carving a deep scar
in the landscape.
289
00:22:32,167 --> 00:22:34,886
It's a tough place to live,
290
00:22:34,927 --> 00:22:37,805
but some people see
this extreme landscape
291
00:22:37,847 --> 00:22:40,122
as an irresistible challenge.
292
00:22:40,167 --> 00:22:42,362
- Hi, Bruce.
- Hello, mate, how are you?
293
00:22:42,407 --> 00:22:43,635
Hello. Good stuff, good.
294
00:22:43,687 --> 00:22:45,405
Welcome to the Apurimac River.
295
00:22:45,447 --> 00:22:48,280
I want to get onto the water
as soon as possible,
296
00:22:48,327 --> 00:22:52,445
so I'm joining a group of river
guides for a few days'rafting.
297
00:22:52,487 --> 00:22:55,240
I think it's going to be part
of your challenge again,
298
00:22:55,287 --> 00:22:59,565
try to pass some of the rapids here,
let's see what happen.
299
00:23:02,407 --> 00:23:05,843
The upper stretches of the Amazon
provide some of the most powerful
300
00:23:05,887 --> 00:23:08,526
and exhilarating white water
in the world.
301
00:23:24,487 --> 00:23:27,047
This river is called the Apurimac,
302
00:23:27,087 --> 00:23:29,965
that's a Quechuan word,
303
00:23:30,007 --> 00:23:33,443
which is, of course,
the language of the Incas.
304
00:23:33,487 --> 00:23:40,359
'Apu' meaning 'god', and 'rimac'
meaning 'speak' or 'to talk'.
305
00:23:40,407 --> 00:23:42,398
I think I'm just about to find out
306
00:23:42,447 --> 00:23:45,245
if this river really does
talk to us.
307
00:23:47,887 --> 00:23:52,881
Apurimac was the Great Speaker, the
most powerful of the Incan oracles.
308
00:23:52,927 --> 00:23:56,124
He spoke through the sounds
of thundering rapids
309
00:23:56,167 --> 00:23:59,079
and foretold the arrival
of the white bearded gods
310
00:23:59,127 --> 00:24:01,880
that would bring the Incan Empire
to its knees.
311
00:24:01,927 --> 00:24:06,796
The river will change its name many
times before it becomes the Amazon.
312
00:24:06,847 --> 00:24:11,318
The Ene, the Tambo,
the Urubamba, the Ucayali.
313
00:24:11,367 --> 00:24:15,201
But these are the headwaters of
the greatest river system on Earth
314
00:24:15,247 --> 00:24:17,841
and I can feel its power already.
315
00:24:17,887 --> 00:24:20,355
Now I've come to this,
it's called the toothache
316
00:24:20,407 --> 00:24:22,159
and it's the first time I realise
317
00:24:22,207 --> 00:24:24,960
I might have been lulled into
a false sense of security.
318
00:24:25,007 --> 00:24:28,966
Cos even the pros now are saying,
''Bruce, this is a scary one, man.
319
00:24:29,007 --> 00:24:32,443
''Be careful.
We don't mess around in this one.''
320
00:24:32,487 --> 00:24:34,557
And to see them suddenly worried
321
00:24:34,607 --> 00:24:37,405
has really put me
into a whole new sphere.
322
00:24:37,447 --> 00:24:41,326
And, yeah, I'm cacking it
a little bit for this one.
323
00:24:41,367 --> 00:24:45,485
OK, we're gonna begin up there,
go over there and through the top.
324
00:24:46,527 --> 00:24:52,045
These rapids are graded five plus,
on a scale that only goes up to six.
325
00:24:52,087 --> 00:24:56,603
I'm not a brilliant swimmer so if I
fall in here I'd be in real trouble.
326
00:24:56,647 --> 00:24:59,844
Have to paddle strong man,
you have to paddle strong.
327
00:25:33,167 --> 00:25:35,442
Unreal! My first ever day rafting.
328
00:25:35,487 --> 00:25:38,047
One or two times
crashing through the waves,
329
00:25:38,087 --> 00:25:41,284
one or two times
sliding between tiny gaps,
330
00:25:41,327 --> 00:25:45,081
but just really exhilarating,
but never felt unsafe.
331
00:25:46,127 --> 00:25:49,403
As the Apurimac thunders down
through the High Andes,
332
00:25:49,447 --> 00:25:51,642
the landscape changes.
333
00:25:51,687 --> 00:25:55,043
Brown desert turns
to lush cloud forest.
334
00:25:55,087 --> 00:25:56,520
For the next few weeks,
335
00:25:56,567 --> 00:26:00,003
I'll be travelling through some
dangerous and difficult country.
336
00:26:00,047 --> 00:26:04,279
Here, the humidity of the jungle
meets the cold of the mountains,
337
00:26:04,327 --> 00:26:07,922
and creates the perfect climate
for growing coca.
338
00:26:07,967 --> 00:26:12,722
Over 100 tonnes of cocaine a year
comes out of this valley.
339
00:26:12,767 --> 00:26:15,804
It's a former stronghold
of the Shining Path,
340
00:26:15,847 --> 00:26:18,361
Maoist revolutionaries
who fought a bloody war
341
00:26:18,407 --> 00:26:20,967
against the state
in the '70s and '80s.
342
00:26:21,007 --> 00:26:23,805
And their influence
is still felt here.
343
00:26:28,287 --> 00:26:32,360
This place is dangerous, so we
switch to a convoy of vehicles.
344
00:26:40,047 --> 00:26:42,845
This is one of the largest areas
of coca production
345
00:26:42,887 --> 00:26:44,843
for the cocaine industry in Peru,
346
00:26:44,887 --> 00:26:47,276
and as a result
it's one of the most dangerous.
347
00:26:47,327 --> 00:26:50,285
It's had a state of emergency
for the last four years,
348
00:26:50,327 --> 00:26:51,919
and even just a couple of weeks ago,
349
00:26:51,967 --> 00:26:54,765
a number of people were killed
in raids on police stations.
350
00:26:54,807 --> 00:26:57,116
It's a completely lawless area
351
00:26:57,167 --> 00:27:00,762
and just being here
is really very difficult.
352
00:27:00,807 --> 00:27:03,037
There's so many elements
at play here.
353
00:27:03,087 --> 00:27:04,440
The people, the peasant farmers
354
00:27:04,487 --> 00:27:07,399
who are just trying to make
a living by making coca,
355
00:27:07,447 --> 00:27:10,723
the Shining Path that of course
had a treacherous history here,
356
00:27:10,767 --> 00:27:12,723
the Americans
and their war on drugs,
357
00:27:12,767 --> 00:27:14,837
the local police
and the local military
358
00:27:14,887 --> 00:27:17,355
and what they're trying to do
for the Americans.
359
00:27:17,407 --> 00:27:20,524
The politics, the whole thing
is a swirling mess.
360
00:27:24,207 --> 00:27:25,640
Most people in this valley
361
00:27:25,687 --> 00:27:29,077
are involved in the production
of coca in some way or another.
362
00:27:29,127 --> 00:27:32,403
We stop for the night in
a small community of coca farmers
363
00:27:32,447 --> 00:27:34,039
a few miles from the river.
364
00:27:35,767 --> 00:27:38,804
Our fixer Luis goes ahead.
365
00:27:38,847 --> 00:27:44,285
Right now we're just holding fire
cos it is a sensitive thing.
366
00:27:44,327 --> 00:27:46,841
Antonio! Buenas tardes.
El es Bruce.
367
00:27:46,887 --> 00:27:50,766
Me nombre Bruce. Muchas gracias
por esta aqui, gracias.
368
00:27:50,807 --> 00:27:52,957
(COCK CROWS)
369
00:27:54,247 --> 00:27:56,044
They agree to let me stay.
370
00:27:56,087 --> 00:27:58,078
(KIDS LAUGH)
371
00:27:59,247 --> 00:28:02,717
As they show me around their home,
it quickly becomes obvious
372
00:28:02,767 --> 00:28:05,998
that these people are not
making much money from drugs.
373
00:28:11,487 --> 00:28:14,763
Next morning,
Antonio shows me round his farm.
374
00:28:16,567 --> 00:28:18,876
This here is coffee,
375
00:28:18,927 --> 00:28:21,600
one of the products on the farm
376
00:28:21,647 --> 00:28:27,358
And, yeah, this is cacao, which
is of course used for chocolate.
377
00:28:27,407 --> 00:28:32,003
But today,
we're out to harvest the coca.
378
00:28:33,207 --> 00:28:37,120
Here we are, the harvest
has already started over there,
379
00:28:37,167 --> 00:28:38,759
completely stripped of leaves
380
00:28:38,807 --> 00:28:42,083
and then these are the ones
we're obviously gonna work on today.
381
00:28:44,807 --> 00:28:49,562
It's legal to cultivate some coca
in Peru for traditional use.
382
00:28:49,607 --> 00:28:51,962
But in reality, the vast majority,
383
00:28:52,007 --> 00:28:56,922
around 90%, goes to making
illegal cocaine.
384
00:29:12,007 --> 00:29:15,079
Coca is an essential cash crop here.
385
00:29:15,127 --> 00:29:17,800
Unlike coffee,
the price rarely fluctuates
386
00:29:17,847 --> 00:29:20,441
and it can be harvested
four times a year.
387
00:29:20,487 --> 00:29:23,797
Simple economics force these people
into the drug trade.
388
00:29:23,847 --> 00:29:26,805
Just been talking to Antonio
about money.
389
00:29:26,847 --> 00:29:29,805
Now the coca he can do
four times a year
390
00:29:29,847 --> 00:29:32,998
and in this particular three month
section for this harvest,
391
00:29:33,047 --> 00:29:36,801
he reckons he's gonna get
about 300 dollars for his produce.
392
00:29:36,847 --> 00:29:40,044
But 200 of that will go
on pesticides and labour,
393
00:29:40,087 --> 00:29:45,161
which means that he will get 100
dollars for this particular harvest.
394
00:29:45,207 --> 00:29:48,244
That 100 dollars has got to pay
for his kids to go to school,
395
00:29:48,287 --> 00:29:51,120
and the transport and his food
and everything else.
396
00:29:51,167 --> 00:29:53,886
And that 100 dollars
is almost, co-incidentally,
397
00:29:53,927 --> 00:29:58,443
about the same price as a gram of
cocaine on the streets of London.
398
00:30:01,247 --> 00:30:04,876
The coca harvest is laid out
in the sun to dry.
399
00:30:11,527 --> 00:30:14,405
Oh, that's quite pungent.
400
00:30:14,447 --> 00:30:17,280
They're not really rotting
but it smells quite rotting,
401
00:30:17,327 --> 00:30:19,887
but it's more than that,
it's quite acrid.
402
00:30:20,567 --> 00:30:23,798
What Antonio does
is part of a grey market.
403
00:30:23,847 --> 00:30:29,240
The authorities turn a blind eye
in order to avoid a full-scale war.
404
00:30:31,767 --> 00:30:34,520
Growing coca, the raw material,
isn't illegal,
405
00:30:34,567 --> 00:30:37,320
but what happens to it next is.
406
00:30:39,367 --> 00:30:42,996
90% of the coca plants
in this valley
407
00:30:43,047 --> 00:30:46,676
are producing leaves for
the illicit cocaine industry.
408
00:30:46,727 --> 00:30:49,161
The leaves themselves
are not exported
409
00:30:49,207 --> 00:30:52,995
but are actually reduced down into
a paste which they call base
410
00:30:53,047 --> 00:30:55,641
that is either then taken to
a laboratory
411
00:30:55,687 --> 00:30:58,599
and made into
the cocaine or exported as paste.
412
00:30:58,647 --> 00:31:02,720
And we're gonna go and look at
one of these sort of laboratories.
413
00:31:12,687 --> 00:31:16,726
Just turned off the main road
into a little side track,
414
00:31:16,767 --> 00:31:19,804
heading into
the middle of nowhere really.
415
00:31:19,847 --> 00:31:23,237
It's about an hour's drive and
then we've got a walk after that
416
00:31:23,287 --> 00:31:24,879
to get to this processing plant.
417
00:31:26,327 --> 00:31:30,684
We're not quite sure what we're
gonna find when we get there,
418
00:31:30,727 --> 00:31:35,642
and our only hope really is that
the military or police don't find it
419
00:31:35,687 --> 00:31:37,803
at the same time we're there.
420
00:31:59,247 --> 00:32:00,839
Cor!
421
00:32:00,887 --> 00:32:03,321
Instantly you can smell it,
422
00:32:03,367 --> 00:32:08,043
that smell that I got when we were
rolling the leaves at Antonio's.
423
00:32:10,367 --> 00:32:13,086
There they are, it's really pungent.
424
00:32:16,207 --> 00:32:18,721
We're not there yet. This is just
425
00:32:18,767 --> 00:32:22,043
the storage area for the leaves,
huge sacks of leaves
426
00:32:22,087 --> 00:32:23,964
and they've chosen this place
427
00:32:24,007 --> 00:32:26,646
because from the air
it's less visible.
428
00:32:28,927 --> 00:32:31,395
They take us away from the river
429
00:32:31,447 --> 00:32:33,881
with two massive bags of
coca leaves.
430
00:32:37,007 --> 00:32:38,406
Ah, so this is it.
431
00:32:39,967 --> 00:32:44,438
The term bossa comes from this pit
where all the leaves are kept.
432
00:32:44,487 --> 00:32:50,119
And the guy who is gonna be
doing the processing today
433
00:32:50,167 --> 00:32:53,523
has just told us that yesterday
the military were here
434
00:32:53,567 --> 00:32:56,923
and they burned
four of these in the local area.
435
00:32:56,967 --> 00:32:59,765
And the way that they know
where they are
436
00:32:59,807 --> 00:33:01,365
is of course
through informers.
437
00:33:01,407 --> 00:33:05,036
So he was really concerned that
whoever the local informer was
438
00:33:05,087 --> 00:33:06,725
knew about this one too.
439
00:33:12,607 --> 00:33:16,236
This is the rustic beginnings
of what is
440
00:33:16,287 --> 00:33:20,360
a multi-billion-billion-dollar
industry.
441
00:33:20,407 --> 00:33:23,285
Wouldn't look like it here.
442
00:33:24,367 --> 00:33:29,282
Death, wars, governments
being overthrown,
443
00:33:29,327 --> 00:33:34,924
corruption, ecstasy, hatred,
you name it,
444
00:33:34,967 --> 00:33:37,242
it all begins here.
445
00:33:37,287 --> 00:33:40,518
This is the first step
of the process
446
00:33:40,567 --> 00:33:42,956
and these bags here are chlorine.
447
00:33:43,007 --> 00:33:45,567
And you can smell it
already, it's quite pungent.
448
00:33:45,607 --> 00:33:48,201
I think we're gonna see
a few chemicals in use today.
449
00:33:53,687 --> 00:33:58,602
Suddenly the smell of chlorine has
been replaced by that pungent odour,
450
00:33:58,647 --> 00:34:02,606
that I'm getting so used to here,
of the coca leaf.
451
00:34:02,647 --> 00:34:07,323
Bizarrely, kind of, it's becoming
an acquired smell.
452
00:34:10,887 --> 00:34:12,878
Tony, you're a young man, you're 18.
453
00:34:12,927 --> 00:34:17,523
What do you know about cocaine as a
drug? Is it a bad thing, good thing?
454
00:34:40,367 --> 00:34:42,198
A toxic cocktail of chemicals
455
00:34:42,247 --> 00:34:45,557
is used to extract the cocaine
from the leaves.
456
00:34:45,607 --> 00:34:49,282
Bleach, kerosene
and sulphuric acid.
457
00:34:57,167 --> 00:35:00,637
Cocaine has all sorts of reputations
round the world
458
00:35:00,687 --> 00:35:02,598
but one of them is...
459
00:35:02,647 --> 00:35:04,478
a sort of glamour drug.
460
00:35:05,607 --> 00:35:10,362
This, and all the chemicals and the
smell and what's going on,
461
00:35:10,407 --> 00:35:12,398
it most certainly isn't that.
462
00:35:16,887 --> 00:35:18,878
What are you putting in now?
463
00:35:18,927 --> 00:35:19,598
- Kerosene.
- Kerosene.
464
00:35:29,527 --> 00:35:31,757
(HE SIPS)
465
00:35:32,847 --> 00:35:34,883
Rather him than me.
466
00:35:34,927 --> 00:35:39,079
The kerosene containing the coca
alkaloid is skimmed off
467
00:35:39,127 --> 00:35:41,846
and the rest
of the chemicals poured away.
468
00:35:52,367 --> 00:35:55,279
Bleach and paraffin,
469
00:35:55,327 --> 00:35:57,921
and that's gonna go straight
into the river systems.
470
00:36:06,007 --> 00:36:10,717
The sad fact of all of this is that
there is still a market for cocaine,
471
00:36:10,767 --> 00:36:13,361
patently, because it's booming here.
472
00:36:13,407 --> 00:36:17,923
There is a war against it and
the production of it is illegal,
473
00:36:17,967 --> 00:36:20,037
but the sad truth of that
474
00:36:20,087 --> 00:36:24,239
is that because it's illegal
it's happening behind closed doors.
475
00:36:24,287 --> 00:36:27,836
Because it's happening behind
closed doors without a licence,
476
00:36:27,887 --> 00:36:30,242
this sort of pollution is rife.
477
00:36:32,767 --> 00:36:35,679
And these people
are the ones who are most affected.
478
00:36:35,727 --> 00:36:38,002
They're not making any
money from it,
479
00:36:38,047 --> 00:36:40,038
yet they're
polluting their own backyard.
480
00:36:40,087 --> 00:36:43,762
And that's the reality
of this valley.
481
00:36:45,967 --> 00:36:47,923
Suddenly there's trouble.
482
00:36:48,967 --> 00:36:51,606
We hear the beat of
a helicopter overhead.
483
00:36:51,647 --> 00:36:56,038
It's the authorities out
looking for coca labs.
484
00:36:56,087 --> 00:36:57,998
We all run for cover.
485
00:36:58,047 --> 00:37:02,916
The one thing we don't want
at an illegal coca plant
486
00:37:02,967 --> 00:37:06,755
is the military
popping in to say hello.
487
00:37:06,807 --> 00:37:08,763
(HELICOPTER APPROACHES)
488
00:37:11,807 --> 00:37:14,321
There it is, fuck.
489
00:37:14,367 --> 00:37:15,846
Right overhead.
490
00:37:20,287 --> 00:37:23,404
These guys understandably shaky.
491
00:37:23,447 --> 00:37:26,405
Three to four years,
and they know it.
492
00:37:28,647 --> 00:37:31,036
Is it worth all this hiding?
493
00:37:31,087 --> 00:37:33,806
All this stuff that you know
is against the law,
494
00:37:33,847 --> 00:37:36,839
is it worth it
for the amount of money you get?
495
00:37:48,367 --> 00:37:52,997
This toxic brew is then strained
and the residue heated.
496
00:38:01,847 --> 00:38:06,079
His outlay in this has been about
$900 US,
497
00:38:06,127 --> 00:38:08,846
that's with all
the tarps and the barrels
498
00:38:08,887 --> 00:38:12,436
and the kero and the ammonia,
the acid.
499
00:38:12,487 --> 00:38:16,719
And of course 250kg of coca leaf.
500
00:38:16,767 --> 00:38:22,046
From that, he says he'll make
a profit of about $80 US
501
00:38:22,087 --> 00:38:24,726
once it's been sold as base.
502
00:38:24,767 --> 00:38:27,042
And that's after four days of work.
503
00:38:28,367 --> 00:38:30,676
There you have it,
the second stage
504
00:38:30,727 --> 00:38:32,922
of the
multi-multi-billion-dollar industry
505
00:38:32,967 --> 00:38:35,765
that is the cocaine industry.
506
00:38:35,807 --> 00:38:39,516
Really surprising.
I was expecting white fluff.
507
00:38:39,567 --> 00:38:42,479
But from here that will go
to a laboratory
508
00:38:42,527 --> 00:38:44,916
where it
becomes cocaine as we know it.
509
00:38:47,367 --> 00:38:50,120
This beautiful valley is at war.
510
00:38:51,567 --> 00:38:56,277
I've spoken to one side,
now I want to talk to the other.
511
00:38:57,527 --> 00:39:01,122
The US pays for three helicopter
gunships in the Apurimac valley.
512
00:39:01,167 --> 00:39:05,445
They fly local police three
times a day, seven days a week,
513
00:39:05,487 --> 00:39:07,955
as part of their war against drugs.
514
00:39:08,007 --> 00:39:09,725
(HE SPEAKS SPANISH)
515
00:39:09,767 --> 00:39:12,486
The local commandante is Juamito.
516
00:39:12,527 --> 00:39:16,520
He lives in this isolated fortress
with a hundred men
517
00:39:16,567 --> 00:39:19,035
and two US special advisors.
518
00:39:19,087 --> 00:39:23,000
The commandant's just come back
and he's found one of the bossas,
519
00:39:23,047 --> 00:39:24,366
one of the plants,
520
00:39:24,407 --> 00:39:25,999
the laboratories.
521
00:39:26,047 --> 00:39:29,323
And apparently it's near a road,
so we're gonna go and have a look.
522
00:39:30,407 --> 00:39:33,080
(THEY SPEAK SPANISH)
523
00:39:33,127 --> 00:39:35,243
Si, OK, perfecto.
524
00:39:35,287 --> 00:39:37,164
Right, this is it, we're off.
525
00:39:43,527 --> 00:39:45,165
We have to cross the river.
526
00:39:45,207 --> 00:39:48,358
Instantly you see why they
like to use helicopters.
527
00:39:48,407 --> 00:39:51,365
There's only one bridge
and it's miles away.
528
00:39:51,407 --> 00:39:54,843
If someone wanted to ambush us,
now would be a good time.
529
00:39:54,887 --> 00:39:58,004
And they tell me they're
attacked at least once a year.
530
00:39:58,727 --> 00:40:02,322
Columbia is still the world's
biggest producer of cocaine,
531
00:40:02,367 --> 00:40:05,598
but Peru is second
and catching up fast.
532
00:40:05,647 --> 00:40:08,639
And now Columbia's
hard-line stance has seen
533
00:40:08,687 --> 00:40:12,760
the drug cartels increasingly
switch production to Peru.
534
00:40:12,807 --> 00:40:16,595
Must be so strange for these guys
living in that compound,
535
00:40:16,647 --> 00:40:18,205
never really going outside of it,
536
00:40:18,247 --> 00:40:21,284
and then the only time
that they ever
537
00:40:21,327 --> 00:40:23,238
communicate with
the outside world,
538
00:40:23,287 --> 00:40:26,597
and all the people in this valley,
is in this form,
539
00:40:26,647 --> 00:40:28,558
it's down the barrel
of a gun
540
00:40:28,607 --> 00:40:31,360
or driving around or
flying in and blowing things up.
541
00:40:32,407 --> 00:40:36,400
The helicopters guide us to a patch
of forest just above the river.
542
00:40:39,887 --> 00:40:42,276
(WALKIE-TALKIE CONVERSATION)
543
00:40:46,447 --> 00:40:48,563
La bossa? Si, esta la bossa.
544
00:40:48,607 --> 00:40:51,519
Juamito leads me to
a disused bossa.
545
00:40:51,567 --> 00:40:54,798
It's surrounded by huge mounds
of coca waste.
546
00:40:55,967 --> 00:40:57,366
There's another one nearby
547
00:40:57,407 --> 00:41:00,558
and this one looks like
it's been used recently.
548
00:41:00,607 --> 00:41:03,997
This is the pipe that collects
the water from the stream
549
00:41:04,047 --> 00:41:05,605
to automate the filling of
550
00:41:05,647 --> 00:41:08,002
the bossa itself.
551
00:41:08,047 --> 00:41:11,244
When you left this morning
you did not know you would find this.
552
00:41:11,287 --> 00:41:13,801
How did you spot it?
Cos it seems quite overgrown.
553
00:41:49,247 --> 00:41:52,762
It feels like the commandante
is fighting a losing battle.
554
00:41:52,807 --> 00:41:57,597
Destroying these simple bossas
has almost no effect on production.
555
00:41:57,647 --> 00:42:00,957
Here, in the Apurimac and Ene
valleys, the amount of land
556
00:42:01,007 --> 00:42:05,683
given over to coca production has
doubled in the past eight years.
557
00:42:05,727 --> 00:42:09,720
In other parts of Latin America,
drug enforcement agencies
558
00:42:09,767 --> 00:42:13,362
have used pesticides to eradicate
entire coca crops.
559
00:42:13,407 --> 00:42:16,763
But the commandante
tells me it's not an option here.
560
00:42:16,807 --> 00:42:19,082
This valley is just too volatile.
561
00:42:48,967 --> 00:42:52,164
In the middle of our filming
in the Apurimac valley,
562
00:42:52,207 --> 00:42:56,564
we received a shocking reminder of
how isolated this place really was.
563
00:42:56,607 --> 00:43:01,442
Our director, Matt Brandon,
had become seriously ill.
564
00:43:02,487 --> 00:43:06,639
He was complaining of extraordinary
headache and back pains.
565
00:43:06,687 --> 00:43:08,359
Yesterday afternoon
he went to bed,
566
00:43:08,407 --> 00:43:10,682
he woke up
and he hasn't spoken since.
567
00:43:10,727 --> 00:43:14,879
Actually, this is the first time
this morning that he's even given us
568
00:43:14,927 --> 00:43:18,363
any conscious cognitive reaction
at all,
569
00:43:18,407 --> 00:43:23,435
and all we care about
is our Matt and getting him out.
570
00:43:24,607 --> 00:43:28,316
His symptoms suggested that
his brain was infected or injured.
571
00:43:28,367 --> 00:43:31,677
It could have been
a stroke or cerebral malaria.
572
00:43:31,727 --> 00:43:35,117
Both are extremely serious but
we were hundreds of miles away
573
00:43:35,167 --> 00:43:37,635
from good medical help
and it was dark.
574
00:43:37,687 --> 00:43:40,884
No chopper would come
till morning.
575
00:43:43,127 --> 00:43:47,120
Everything is going to be fine,
I promise you. I promise you, man.
576
00:43:47,167 --> 00:43:48,839
You'll there in no time.
577
00:43:48,887 --> 00:43:52,163
The weather's good, the pilots are
coming, everything is organised.
578
00:43:52,207 --> 00:43:54,767
We've been a bit worried,
but you're OK.
579
00:43:54,807 --> 00:44:00,518
Yeah? You're with us now, yeah?
So you've had a...
580
00:44:00,567 --> 00:44:04,196
Everyone's been looking after you
and you're gonna be fine.
581
00:44:07,647 --> 00:44:11,560
After a night of desperate
phone calls, the anti-narcotics team
582
00:44:11,607 --> 00:44:14,075
agreed to fly Matt
to a nearby airstrip
583
00:44:14,127 --> 00:44:16,561
from where
he could be transferred to Lima.
584
00:44:16,607 --> 00:44:19,883
We cleared a landing area
for the helicopter.
585
00:44:19,927 --> 00:44:24,000
We have a doctor with us who is
willing to go all the way to Lima.
586
00:44:45,647 --> 00:44:47,444
Matt was flown to a hospital,
587
00:44:47,487 --> 00:44:50,763
where he was diagnosed as
having an abscess on his brain.
588
00:44:52,447 --> 00:44:55,803
We delayed the journey
while we waited for news.
589
00:44:55,847 --> 00:45:01,365
He responded to treatment well
and went on to make a full recovery.
590
00:45:01,407 --> 00:45:04,558
With Matt safe,
we decided to continue.
591
00:45:08,447 --> 00:45:13,646
I'm back on the river heading
north, out of the Apurimac valley.
592
00:45:13,687 --> 00:45:17,839
We've been badly shaken so
it's good to be on the move again.
593
00:45:17,887 --> 00:45:20,162
But we're now seriously behind
schedule
594
00:45:20,207 --> 00:45:23,597
and there's a difficult
stretch of the river ahead.
595
00:45:23,647 --> 00:45:27,276
I pass towns and villages
that look desolate and forgotten.
596
00:45:27,327 --> 00:45:30,876
There's not much evidence
of drug dollars here,
597
00:45:30,927 --> 00:45:33,521
just poverty and neglect.
598
00:45:33,567 --> 00:45:36,445
A feeling that I do get
down here is that...
599
00:45:36,487 --> 00:45:41,402
there is a little bit of resentment
towards the nation state here.
600
00:45:41,447 --> 00:45:46,965
They feel they've been left alone,
they feel that there are solutions
601
00:45:47,007 --> 00:45:49,919
that they see,
but they're not being implemented.
602
00:45:49,967 --> 00:45:53,437
One reason they're involved in
what they know is an illicit trade
603
00:45:53,487 --> 00:45:56,285
is because they haven't,
as they see it, any option.
604
00:45:56,327 --> 00:46:00,206
It's the only thing that offers
them stability, it's the only thing,
605
00:46:00,247 --> 00:46:02,522
as they see it, offers them
an income
606
00:46:02,567 --> 00:46:05,718
that can support them in
a way that isn't grinding poverty.
607
00:46:05,767 --> 00:46:07,883
And who can blame them, actually?
608
00:46:07,927 --> 00:46:11,681
They're just getting on with it,
and all of the negativity that's...
609
00:46:11,727 --> 00:46:15,515
about this horrible subject
is happening elsewhere really.
610
00:46:15,567 --> 00:46:18,240
But they feel that the war's being
fought on their turf
611
00:46:18,287 --> 00:46:20,198
and they're
the ones that are losing out.
612
00:46:21,807 --> 00:46:25,038
As we move downstream,
the river changes its name again.
613
00:46:25,087 --> 00:46:26,805
It's now called the Ene
614
00:46:26,847 --> 00:46:30,237
and it flows through one of
the most notorious areas in Peru.
615
00:46:30,287 --> 00:46:33,563
This place is known simply as
the Red Zone
616
00:46:33,607 --> 00:46:37,486
and it's a no-go area
for the police and the army.
617
00:46:37,527 --> 00:46:40,121
On this section of the river
there's a tribe
618
00:46:40,167 --> 00:46:43,000
who are fighting their own
war against the drug gangs.
619
00:46:43,047 --> 00:46:46,119
Since coming to the valley there's
one group of people
620
00:46:46,167 --> 00:46:48,283
I've been
really looking forward to meeting
621
00:46:48,327 --> 00:46:49,680
and they're the Ashaninka,
622
00:46:49,727 --> 00:46:53,117
the original tribal indigenous
inhabitants of this part of Peru.
623
00:46:53,167 --> 00:46:56,239
For centuries, they've been trying
to fight off
624
00:46:56,287 --> 00:46:58,005
people laying claim to their land,
625
00:46:58,047 --> 00:47:01,084
whether it's the Andean people
coming down as farmers,
626
00:47:01,127 --> 00:47:02,446
or the Shining Path,
627
00:47:02,487 --> 00:47:06,446
and more recently they've been
fighting in a bitter armed struggle
628
00:47:06,487 --> 00:47:09,604
against the Cocaleros,
the coca-producing farmers,
629
00:47:09,647 --> 00:47:12,605
who are everywhere
just trying to steal their lands.
630
00:47:14,607 --> 00:47:17,758
The Red Zone is the last refuge
631
00:47:17,807 --> 00:47:21,880
of one of South America's most
brutal terrorist organisations,
632
00:47:21,927 --> 00:47:24,839
Sendero Luminoso, the Shining Path.
633
00:47:24,887 --> 00:47:28,926
They fought a bloody war against
the Peruvian state in the '80s.
634
00:47:28,967 --> 00:47:32,198
70,000 people were
killed in the conflict.
635
00:47:33,127 --> 00:47:36,915
The Ashaninka were caught
in the middle and suffered horribly.
636
00:47:36,967 --> 00:47:42,280
The Shining Path now provides
protection for the drug gangs.
637
00:47:47,887 --> 00:47:50,765
This is Catungo,
an Ashaninka village
638
00:47:50,807 --> 00:47:53,685
three hours'drive from the river.
639
00:47:53,727 --> 00:47:56,525
I'm hoping to stay here
for a week or so
640
00:47:56,567 --> 00:47:58,797
and go on a patrol with
the Ronderos,
641
00:47:58,847 --> 00:48:03,477
the Ashaninka's own defence force,
who are fighting the drug gangs.
642
00:48:03,527 --> 00:48:05,882
But we've arrived at
a difficult time.
643
00:48:05,927 --> 00:48:07,918
It's the village's
12th birthday party.
644
00:48:07,967 --> 00:48:12,757
The local logging boss has organised
a football tournament and a band.
645
00:48:12,807 --> 00:48:14,798
The place is packed with outsiders,
646
00:48:14,847 --> 00:48:18,806
loggers from the camps in
the forest and Lord knows who else.
647
00:48:20,727 --> 00:48:23,321
I'm doing a journey that's gonna
last six months,
648
00:48:23,367 --> 00:48:26,200
travelling from
the source of the Amazon to the sea,
649
00:48:26,247 --> 00:48:28,522
meeting people
and communities along the way.
650
00:48:28,567 --> 00:48:31,525
And also to come around and ask you
some questions about
651
00:48:31,567 --> 00:48:34,240
what it is like
to live here and any views
652
00:48:34,287 --> 00:48:37,757
that you have on the changing times
that we have in this area.
653
00:49:11,367 --> 00:49:16,839
They've told me it's too dangerous
to go out on a long patrol,
654
00:49:16,887 --> 00:49:20,163
not just because I'm here
but because the whole situation
655
00:49:20,207 --> 00:49:22,163
is too hot at the moment.
656
00:49:22,207 --> 00:49:24,516
So, instead,
657
00:49:24,567 --> 00:49:28,560
we're gonna do a perimeter patrol
and just go and visit
658
00:49:28,607 --> 00:49:32,043
some of the sentries who are there,
at all times,
659
00:49:32,087 --> 00:49:34,157
around the
circumference of the village.
660
00:50:18,407 --> 00:50:21,080
And why is it that you
have to do this yourself?
661
00:50:21,127 --> 00:50:23,197
Why can't your government provide
the security
662
00:50:23,247 --> 00:50:25,966
that you feel you need
to protect your land?
663
00:50:39,847 --> 00:50:43,601
The word Ashaninka
means ''a brother to all''.
664
00:50:43,647 --> 00:50:49,005
But now they stand alone, fighting
against a wave of outsiders.
665
00:50:49,047 --> 00:50:53,438
The Ashaninka need the forest
to hunt, but the incomers just
666
00:50:53,487 --> 00:50:59,437
want to cut it down for timber
and new land to grow yet more coca.
667
00:50:59,487 --> 00:51:01,762
Por mi? Gracias.
668
00:51:06,327 --> 00:51:07,919
I'm glad I asked.
669
00:51:09,367 --> 00:51:14,077
I'm given a bowl of masato,
traditional Ashaninka beer.
670
00:51:15,927 --> 00:51:18,680
It's made from yucca
and sweet potato.
671
00:51:18,727 --> 00:51:23,039
The women chew the sweet potato
and spit it back into the pot.
672
00:51:23,087 --> 00:51:25,396
Their saliva causes it to ferment. '
673
00:51:35,247 --> 00:51:36,282
It's amazing really.
674
00:51:36,327 --> 00:51:40,479
When we first arrived, I was a bit
concerned about our reception,
675
00:51:40,527 --> 00:51:43,087
they kind of weren't expecting us
and it wasn't...
676
00:51:43,127 --> 00:51:46,278
it was very cordial
but it wasn't gushing in any way.
677
00:51:46,327 --> 00:51:49,637
And I was worried about how
our time here was gonna be
678
00:51:49,687 --> 00:51:51,917
but, now
that I've got to know them
679
00:51:51,967 --> 00:51:56,085
and now that they realise that we're
here just to film them
680
00:51:56,127 --> 00:51:58,516
and show their lives,
they've opened up.
681
00:51:58,567 --> 00:52:02,640
And when you consider what they've
been through in the last 30 years
682
00:52:02,687 --> 00:52:05,838
and all the atrocities, it's not
surprising they're cautious
683
00:52:05,887 --> 00:52:08,321
about visitors
coming out of the blue.
684
00:52:10,527 --> 00:52:12,563
The party gets into full swing.
685
00:52:13,687 --> 00:52:16,155
The village is full of incomers.
686
00:52:16,207 --> 00:52:19,483
The band has come from Ayacucho,
miles away.
687
00:52:20,647 --> 00:52:23,366
The mood is friendly, but tense.
688
00:52:40,647 --> 00:52:44,765
Halfway through our stay,
we get some worrying news.
689
00:52:44,807 --> 00:52:47,526
The Ronderos are nervous.
690
00:52:47,567 --> 00:52:50,081
People have been asking
questions about us.
691
00:52:50,127 --> 00:52:55,042
Everyone is twitchy, and there's
a threat of violence in the air.
692
00:52:55,087 --> 00:52:59,285
Is our staying here putting any
Ashaninka's lives at risk?
693
00:52:59,327 --> 00:53:02,239
This is very important
for us to know.
694
00:53:02,287 --> 00:53:03,037
Si. Si.
695
00:53:03,087 --> 00:53:07,365
It seems that, because we arrived
at the time when they had
696
00:53:07,407 --> 00:53:09,921
their 12th anniversary,
that a lot of people
697
00:53:09,967 --> 00:53:13,403
who wouldn't normally have
known we were here have seen us.
698
00:53:13,447 --> 00:53:16,678
And at first, perhaps in our
ignorance, we didn't think
699
00:53:16,727 --> 00:53:20,686
that was a bad thing, but we're just
getting the message through now that
700
00:53:20,727 --> 00:53:23,287
that has filtered out
to the colonos,
701
00:53:23,327 --> 00:53:26,683
the people who are
invading the lands all around,
702
00:53:26,727 --> 00:53:31,005
and that they have put the word out
that if we try and go out
703
00:53:31,047 --> 00:53:33,003
on any of
these patrols or whatever,
704
00:53:33,047 --> 00:53:36,881
they are there, they're armed and
ready and they don't care whether
705
00:53:36,927 --> 00:53:39,395
there's gringos, white people,
in the area,
706
00:53:39,447 --> 00:53:42,996
they will protect their lands,
as they see it, bizarrely.
707
00:53:45,927 --> 00:53:49,522
It's not safe for us or our hosts
so we pack our things
708
00:53:49,567 --> 00:53:51,239
and head back to the river.
709
00:54:01,567 --> 00:54:04,445
It's a bit of a shame not
spending more time in Catungo.
710
00:54:04,487 --> 00:54:08,275
I was hoping to have really
got to know some characters there
711
00:54:08,327 --> 00:54:10,522
and explored their story a bit more,
712
00:54:10,567 --> 00:54:13,798
but once again we got
moved on, again for safety reasons.
713
00:54:13,847 --> 00:54:17,283
It seems to have been the story
of my journey so far, especially
714
00:54:17,327 --> 00:54:20,797
here in the Apurimac valley,
that it's just really difficult.
715
00:54:20,847 --> 00:54:22,997
People don't come here,
there's no security
716
00:54:23,047 --> 00:54:26,801
and everyone's a little bit
on edge every time we come by.
717
00:54:26,847 --> 00:54:30,283
But my journey's not over yet
and my hope is that today
718
00:54:30,327 --> 00:54:32,045
we can find another
Ashaninka village
719
00:54:32,087 --> 00:54:35,921
and maybe, if I'm lucky,
it'll be a more traditional one.
720
00:54:37,167 --> 00:54:41,399
As we move downriver, I can see
what the Ronderos are fighting.
721
00:54:41,447 --> 00:54:46,237
Everywhere, the forest is being
burned to create new coca fields.
722
00:54:46,287 --> 00:54:49,324
We need to find somewhere safe
to spend the night,
723
00:54:49,367 --> 00:54:53,326
hopefully somewhere beyond
the influence of the cocaine trade.
724
00:55:01,007 --> 00:55:04,920
This is the village of Pamikieri
725
00:55:04,967 --> 00:55:08,243
and we only radioed ahead
to ask permission
726
00:55:08,287 --> 00:55:11,518
to come here yesterday
when we left Catungo.
727
00:55:12,887 --> 00:55:14,286
Buenas tardes.
728
00:55:14,327 --> 00:55:17,399
Buenas tardes, senor. Buenas tardes.
729
00:55:18,407 --> 00:55:19,806
Buenas tardes.
730
00:55:20,847 --> 00:55:22,280
Hola!
731
00:55:23,327 --> 00:55:25,363
Hey, little one, hey.
732
00:55:26,407 --> 00:55:27,601
Wow.
733
00:55:27,647 --> 00:55:31,640
Now, this is a little bit
more like it, fantastic.
734
00:55:31,687 --> 00:55:33,678
Si, si, si. Gracias.
735
00:55:35,367 --> 00:55:37,437
This place feels different
immediately,
736
00:55:37,487 --> 00:55:41,241
as if the problems
upriver have yet to arrive.
737
00:55:41,287 --> 00:55:43,403
Even the masato tastes different.
738
00:55:43,447 --> 00:55:45,199
Ooh!
739
00:55:46,247 --> 00:55:48,841
Straightaway,
there's a difference!
740
00:55:48,887 --> 00:55:51,447
This is a little bit more potent.
741
00:55:59,847 --> 00:56:03,396
These kids aren't shy.
We've had a complete line up,
742
00:56:03,447 --> 00:56:06,280
about 20 kids
come past shaking everyone's hands.
743
00:56:11,207 --> 00:56:13,004
The people of Pamikieri
744
00:56:13,047 --> 00:56:16,198
are preparing to celebrate
their first birthday
745
00:56:16,247 --> 00:56:18,477
and the whole village
is working together
746
00:56:18,527 --> 00:56:20,438
to make the place look nice.
747
00:56:21,567 --> 00:56:24,206
This is only a year old,
this community.
748
00:56:24,247 --> 00:56:28,320
It's amazing when you see
how much has been done,
749
00:56:28,367 --> 00:56:30,198
but when you get days like this,
750
00:56:30,247 --> 00:56:34,798
when you see the power of everyone
working together, you realise
751
00:56:34,847 --> 00:56:38,681
just what it is that's
going on here.
752
00:56:38,727 --> 00:56:40,160
Really lovely.
753
00:56:42,487 --> 00:56:46,446
The Ashaninka aspire to
a life of peace and ease.
754
00:56:46,487 --> 00:56:48,637
They try to avoid conflict
at all costs
755
00:56:49,567 --> 00:56:53,765
and will often form breakaway
villages in order to do so.
756
00:56:53,807 --> 00:56:56,196
Pamikieri is such a place.
757
00:56:56,247 --> 00:57:01,002
It was formed a year ago to resolve
a dispute at a nearby village.
758
00:57:01,047 --> 00:57:04,722
And, after the places I've been,
this feels like a sanctuary.
759
00:57:09,487 --> 00:57:14,356
I've just been told...
that this is for me.
760
00:57:14,407 --> 00:57:16,318
I'm the guest of honour,
apparently,
761
00:57:16,367 --> 00:57:19,200
and that one
over there is for everyone else.
762
00:57:22,567 --> 00:57:26,401
Yeah, talk about hospitality.
This is a little bit beyond.
763
00:57:29,407 --> 00:57:33,685
It's nearly time for me to
leave these troubled valleys.
764
00:57:33,727 --> 00:57:36,446
It's been a hard few months
765
00:57:36,487 --> 00:57:38,284
travelling through
difficult country,
766
00:57:38,327 --> 00:57:42,445
but I've been met with
smiles and warmth almost everywhere.
767
00:57:42,487 --> 00:57:45,843
I can see why the people
I've met choose to grow coca.
768
00:57:45,887 --> 00:57:48,959
There seems to be
nothing else for them.
769
00:57:49,007 --> 00:57:51,646
And, as the demand
for cocaine soars,
770
00:57:51,687 --> 00:57:55,475
they need more and more land
to grow their plants.
771
00:57:55,527 --> 00:57:58,678
But for the Ashaninka,
it's a deadly harvest.
772
00:57:58,727 --> 00:58:03,118
Their forest is being burned
and their rivers are being polluted.
773
00:58:03,167 --> 00:58:08,287
I'm afraid I have no answers, but
the Ashaninka of Pamikieri at least
774
00:58:08,327 --> 00:58:12,286
seem to have found some temporary
peace in their violent history.
775
00:58:12,327 --> 00:58:15,239
I just hope it lasts.
776
00:58:18,647 --> 00:58:23,163
I'm back on the river again, heading
further into the jungles of Peru.
777
00:58:23,207 --> 00:58:26,244
Next time, as my Amazon journey
continues,
778
00:58:26,287 --> 00:58:30,644
I push deeper into this great forest
to meet the Achuar people,
779
00:58:30,687 --> 00:58:34,965
a remote tribe fighting to keep
oil companies off their land.
780
00:58:35,007 --> 00:58:39,444
And I undergo a profound shamanic
ritual that shakes me to the core.
781
00:58:39,487 --> 00:58:43,526
It's just sitting there like
an evil menace in my stomach.
782
00:58:47,287 --> 00:58:54,398
If you want to know more, visit
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