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I'm travelling deep into the heart
of the Peruvian Amazon
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to visit the Achuar people.
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These hunter-gatherers live in one of
the most untouched parts of the forest,
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and one of the richest
natural environments left on Earth.
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You feel something
tickle against your leg. It's like,
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you can't see a thing,
it's so murky.
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Once proud warriors,
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they are now fighting a new enemy,
the oil companies.
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Every single living thing in this
particular area here will have died.
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Their tribal lands sit on top
of vast oil reserves.
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And they don't trust outsiders.
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They actually have decided that
they don't want me in the house.
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As my Amazon journey continues,
I seek a vision to guide me on my way.
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It's just sitting there like an evil
menace in my stomach.
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And, as I finally reach Brazil,
things get very strange.
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Can you believe it? I love this.
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I'm travelling through the Amazon
rainforest, following the river
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from the source to the sea,
looking at the lives of the people
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who live here.
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As I push further north,
the mountain jungles of the Andes
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give way to endless forest.
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This is the largest unbroken tract
of tropical forest on Earth.
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And from the air,
it takes your breath away!
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But this is no empty wilderness.
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This vast forest is home to some of
Peru's most remote tribal groups.
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The Achuar live in the north of Peru,
near the border with Ecuador,
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along the rivers Pastaza
and Huitoyacu.
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Back in the '60s,
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seismic testing found huge deposits
of crude oil here.
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The oil companies have been working
on the Pastaza for years,
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but the communities
on the River Huitoyacu
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have so far refused them access.
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And that's where I'm going first.
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We land in a small settlement on
the River Marañon called San Lorenzo.
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Jorge, que tal?
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This is Jorge Fachin.
He's an Achuar leader,
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and has agreed to introduce me
to the elders of his village,
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three days'travel up a remote
tributary of the Amazon.
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It feels like a bitter irony
that oil should be found here
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of all places.
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This part of the Amazon
is one of the most bio-diverse
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places on Earth.
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The river and forest weave
a complex eco-system
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that supports the planet's
most dazzling array of life.
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Been all day on this boat,
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getting increasingly smaller as we
go upstream. This is the Huitoyacu.
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It's just so glorious,
and this time of the evening,
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with the sun going down,
it's got an ethereal quality.
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I'm so lucky to be allowed
to come in here.
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There are no roads, no towns,
no real infrastructure,
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other than what the tribal people
have traditionally had.
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As we move into Achuar territory,
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we pass local people,
but no-one smiles or waves.
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Although the villagers know
we are coming,
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Jorge warns me not to expect
too much of a welcome.
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Although the Achuar have had
contact with the outside world
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for over forty years,
they are a superstitious people.
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Their world is full of witchcraft
and forest spirits
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to be feared and appeased.
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They believe the pelacaras are
evil spirits that stalk the forest.
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And, as we move slowly upstream,
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I begin to get the sense we are
going somewhere strange and special.
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This is the village of Wijint,
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which is the largest of all
the Achuar communities.
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Population of about 500 people,
I think,
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spread out over quite some area.
And Jorge here,
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who's the old president, is gonna
introduce me to some of the elders.
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But we are nearly a day late
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and the Apus, or elders,
are all out hunting.
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The village is all but deserted.
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The next morning,
we are summoned by the elders.
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I've been told we've all
got to go in in single file,
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there's eight of us.
Then we've got to go up
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and stand in front of the area
where the Apus,
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the elders, are going to come
and greet us in their special way.
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(THEY CHANT)
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The hall is packed
and their message is clear.
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Although they were expecting us,
they are nervous.
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They don't even trust Jorge,
and he grew up here
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and was one of their leaders.
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I have already heard that
you have concerns about your...
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natural resources being taken
and many, many things,
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and I also fully understand
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everything that you have asked
and said to me.
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(REPLIES IN HIS NATIVE TONGUE)
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The meeting takes all day,
but the elders finally,
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reluctantly, agree that we can stay.
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Saris, the most outspoken against us,
is chosen to be my host.
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I'm very excited... Fantastic.
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(TRIBAL MUSIC)
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I'd heard before I came
that the Achuar
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were a very organised group
of people,
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they like their meetings
and they like things to be deliberated.
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They like to have the...
(LOUD BANG)
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It's all right,
that's quite exciting.
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But this is extraordinary.
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It's better than any village fete
I've been to back home.
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It's really well orchestrated.
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The Achuar lived here
in relative isolation
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until the middle of
the 20th century.
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They escaped the devastation
of the rubber boom
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that wiped out so many
Amazonian tribes.
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When missionaries arrived
in the '60s,
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they found the Achuar living in
a state of perpetual internal warfare,
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often sparked by the belief
that shamans had cast evil spells.
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The Achuar no longer live
with the fear of constant war,
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but outsiders are still
treated with suspicion.
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Despite his initial hostility,
Saris is warming to me.
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His daughters, however,
are not so sure.
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Saris's sons-in-law live here too,
but they are away hunting.
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If I'm to stay here,
I'll need to help out,
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so he shows me to his garden.
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The Achuar are renowned for
their use of forest medicine.
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One of the most powerful plants
in their medicine cabinet
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is ayahuasca.
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The Achuar use ayahuasca
to search for their vision,
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or path, through life.
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They believe it can induce dreams
in which the spirits speak to you.
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Saris agrees to arrange
an ayahuasca ceremony for me,
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in return for helping out.
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OK. Mañana?
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Mañana.
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Fantastico...
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Perfecto. No problemo.
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..I've got my work cut out
tomorrow, then!
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But the morning brings bad news.
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Saris has had a change of heart.
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Or rather, it seems,
his daughters have had a quiet word.
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And it seems that their reticence
and their shyness hasn't disappeared
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and they actually have decided that
they don't want me in the house.
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So it's not looking good really, cos
I don't want to be an imposition,
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even though he was
really happy yesterday,
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they've had time to think
and maybe it's not right.
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I understand and I...
the reason for me coming here
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is to try and learn
about your culture,
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and the last thing that I want
is to be an imposition on anyone.
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In order to understand something
of the Achuar way of life,
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I want to stay with a family.
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As most people are suspicious
of myself
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and the crew,Jorge introduces me
to his brother-in-law, Mantu.
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He lives with his wife Carmela
and their children in the forest
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outside the village.
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Mantu is a skilled hunter.
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He has just returned
from the forest with food.
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Traditionally, the Achuar house
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was the centre of
the family's world.
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Before the missionaries encouraged
them to form villages, the Achuar
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would live in single houses
spread throughout the forest.
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These spectacular structures,
up to eight metres high,
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would be home to the extended family
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and had alliances with nearby
houses for trading and marriage.
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The house is surrounded by gardens,
called chakras,
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and a network of paths
radiates outwards
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into areas for hunting and fishing.
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Before dawn the next morning, I join
the family in their morning ritual,
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drinking a bitter
herbal tea called wayus.
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It's both purgative and tonic.
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After drinking litres of wayus,
we all head outside.
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(HE RETCHES)
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Aah...
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Morning, everyone.
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The Achuar do this
every morning of their lives.
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This ritual purging is followed
by a period of quiet reflection,
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where the family can discuss
the day ahead.
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Mantu tells me the forest spirits
are much on his mind.
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To the Achuar,
the forest is alive with spirits.
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Mana is the mother of the animals.
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Where she lives,
the forest is full of game.
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Arutem is the mother
of the visions.
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She is wise and appears in dreams
to tell the future. Shaam is dangerous.
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Where she lives,
the forest is quiet.
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But now, there's a new spirit
haunting the forest,
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the pelacara, or the skin peeler.
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It's thought that the legend
of the pelacara has a basis
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in horrific reality.
Early settlers here
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hunted tribal people
and rendered their fat for oil lamps.
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I'm beginning to understand
why people are so scared of us.
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Trying to lead the Achuar
from the darkness into the light
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is a small mission of
Colombian nuns.
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(THEY SPEAK IN SPANISH)
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Fantastic.
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They manage the school and,
unlike many missionaries,
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still encourage
traditional beliefs.
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So, what changes have you seen over
the years? You must have seen a lot.
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00:17:04,527 --> 00:17:07,166
The nuns have their work cut out.
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The Achuar legal system is more
Old Testament than New.
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Certain crimes
are punishable by death.
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I've agreed to help Saris
chop some firewood.
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I want to help as much as I can,
but he's a hard task-master.
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Making a bit of a pig's ear of it,
cos so many obstacles in the way
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for my swing,
I can't do it properly.
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00:18:29,847 --> 00:18:32,725
But I've got to get it right,
cos if it goes the wrong way,
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it could take out half of his garden
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and all the plants
and trees therein.
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Oh, fuck!
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It's hard work in the heat.
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00:19:04,927 --> 00:19:08,044
And this morning's wayus
is still giving me gyp.
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00:19:09,047 --> 00:19:10,366
It's...
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00:19:10,407 --> 00:19:13,126
Fuck! Ooh, a bit woozy there.
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00:19:15,047 --> 00:19:18,562
They said when I was drinking
this morning and vomiting,
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00:19:18,607 --> 00:19:20,757
that if I didn't get it all out,
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there was a chance
I could get nauseous in the day,
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especially on my first time.
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00:19:27,087 --> 00:19:30,477
And I just think
I had a wave of that.
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Ugh, about to be sick.
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00:19:33,767 --> 00:19:35,564
(HE RETCHES)
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00:19:50,007 --> 00:19:54,762
I feel faint, but I still want to
carry the logs back to Saris's hut.
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00:19:58,767 --> 00:20:01,235
I was feeling great this morning...
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00:20:02,807 --> 00:20:04,240
...after the wayus,
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00:20:04,287 --> 00:20:09,964
wayus vomiting up, I thought it was
quite a good sort of purgative,
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00:20:10,007 --> 00:20:12,919
made me feel quite...fresh and healthy,
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00:20:12,967 --> 00:20:15,481
but I'm feeling really nauseous now.
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00:20:17,847 --> 00:20:20,236
And he's still not finished with me.
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00:20:27,807 --> 00:20:31,925
I'm not here for long, and I'm
finding Wijint a difficult place
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00:20:31,967 --> 00:20:33,685
to make friends.
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00:20:33,727 --> 00:20:36,116
The people seem nervous
and reserved.
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00:20:36,167 --> 00:20:41,195
So when Mantu offers to take me fishing,
I jump at the chance.
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00:20:42,887 --> 00:20:46,960
Mantu's kept up a pretty good pace
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all morning.
We've been going for some time,
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00:20:50,007 --> 00:20:54,637
and I can keep up with him on
the straight, but as soon as we come to
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any obstacles or logs,
I'm so much slower.
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Whoa! See what I mean?
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Fishing with the Achuar
is a family affair.
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Three families have come together
to maximise their catch.
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I've just arrived, and I think that
we're going to be making the poison,
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00:21:22,767 --> 00:21:27,602
and some people are already here
before me.
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00:21:27,647 --> 00:21:31,276
And the guys who are just ahead
as well...
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00:21:33,007 --> 00:21:36,795
...loving the flip-out screen
on the camera.
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00:21:38,807 --> 00:21:42,641
They're using the leaves of
the huaca plant to asphyxiate the fish.
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00:21:42,687 --> 00:21:44,723
First, it must be mashed.
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00:21:46,687 --> 00:21:50,521
Huaca stuns the fish
by deoxygenating the water.
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00:21:50,567 --> 00:21:54,606
It doesn't kill them, and so the river
will recover quickly afterwards.
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Really? Like that?
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00:22:08,207 --> 00:22:09,356
OK.
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00:22:14,967 --> 00:22:19,279
As the poison is released into
the stream, fish begin to surface,
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gasping for breath.
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00:22:22,167 --> 00:22:25,876
The families move slowly downstream,
gathering their catch.
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00:22:35,607 --> 00:22:38,041
Jorge, there's one over there, I think.
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00:22:39,607 --> 00:22:42,724
The river is healthy, clean,
and full of huge fish.
240
00:22:52,287 --> 00:22:54,960
I'm so far back,
I'm just getting the tiddlers.
241
00:22:55,007 --> 00:22:59,319
But up the front, some of the boys
are getting some real whoppers.
242
00:23:10,687 --> 00:23:14,475
I can actually see one rising
and coming down like a porpoise,
243
00:23:14,527 --> 00:23:17,121
surfacing and breaching,
and then it disappears,
244
00:23:17,167 --> 00:23:19,442
and you can feel something
tickle against your leg,
245
00:23:19,487 --> 00:23:22,285
and it's like
you can't see a thing, it's so murky.
246
00:23:25,407 --> 00:23:28,285
Check the teeth on that.
247
00:23:28,327 --> 00:23:31,285
I was told,
watch out for that one,
248
00:23:31,327 --> 00:23:33,522
cos if he bites you,
he doesn't let go.
249
00:23:33,567 --> 00:23:37,799
Catch up with the family,
I don't want to be last in this river.
250
00:23:37,847 --> 00:23:41,237
It's been a good day,
and I feel at last
251
00:23:41,287 --> 00:23:43,801
like I'm beginning to make
some friends.
252
00:23:43,847 --> 00:23:47,476
Just look at the catch,
unbelievable.
253
00:23:47,527 --> 00:23:49,836
There's one here, check that.
254
00:23:52,407 --> 00:23:54,204
These...
255
00:23:54,247 --> 00:23:57,239
and these.
256
00:23:57,287 --> 00:24:01,280
Amazing. My paltry amount
is just here...
257
00:24:01,327 --> 00:24:05,559
but I did get the bonus
of getting the, er...
258
00:24:05,607 --> 00:24:07,837
the stingray.
259
00:24:07,887 --> 00:24:09,002
But all in all,
260
00:24:09,047 --> 00:24:10,924
pretty good.
261
00:24:12,487 --> 00:24:17,038
As hunter-gatherers, the Achuar rely
almost completely on the forest
262
00:24:17,087 --> 00:24:19,681
and its river for their food.
263
00:24:19,727 --> 00:24:24,005
They need a vast area
to sustain this way of life.
264
00:24:24,047 --> 00:24:26,959
But the oil companies
are getting closer.
265
00:24:36,367 --> 00:24:40,155
This man has just returned from
a patrol to the edge of the territory
266
00:24:40,207 --> 00:24:43,597
where the oil companies are
carrying out seismic testing.
267
00:24:43,647 --> 00:24:46,559
Some of the Achuar villages nearby
have agreed
268
00:24:46,607 --> 00:24:48,723
to oil exploration on their land.
269
00:24:48,767 --> 00:24:53,682
They want development,
jobs, money, electricity, education.
270
00:24:53,727 --> 00:24:58,243
It's interesting, because
although the Achuar are very unified
271
00:24:58,287 --> 00:25:03,315
as a group of people en masse,
also there do seem to be some...
272
00:25:03,367 --> 00:25:06,916
some differences of opinion
within the various communities.
273
00:25:06,967 --> 00:25:11,404
And one community, for example,
which borders this community,
274
00:25:11,447 --> 00:25:16,043
has accepted some of the petroleum
companies on to their turf.
275
00:25:16,087 --> 00:25:18,681
Now, there's massive dispute
within their own community.
276
00:25:18,727 --> 00:25:21,844
Some want it and some don't,
but it seems that that fracture
277
00:25:21,887 --> 00:25:25,197
has allowed some of the seismic
testing to come on board,
278
00:25:25,247 --> 00:25:30,196
which is making this community
really twitchy and scared about
279
00:25:30,247 --> 00:25:34,081
how much closer it's going to come,
and the contamination might come
280
00:25:34,127 --> 00:25:36,197
onto what is their ancestral lands.
281
00:25:36,247 --> 00:25:39,284
Why is it that you are so adamant
282
00:25:39,327 --> 00:25:43,115
that you do not want these companies
to come onto your land,
283
00:25:43,167 --> 00:25:45,237
when they seem to be offering you
so much
284
00:25:45,287 --> 00:25:49,280
and they have so many promises
for good things? Why is it
285
00:25:49,327 --> 00:25:51,283
that you do not want them
to come here?
286
00:26:30,727 --> 00:26:34,242
It's hard to believe
that a small community like this
287
00:26:34,287 --> 00:26:38,075
can keep big business at bay,
but they have done so for decades.
288
00:26:38,127 --> 00:26:40,277
Everything is connected here.
289
00:26:40,327 --> 00:26:45,606
All the rivers flow into one, so if
a tributary upstream is polluted,
290
00:26:45,647 --> 00:26:50,163
everyone will feel the effects.
The Achuars'only hope
291
00:26:50,207 --> 00:26:51,686
is to stand together.
292
00:26:51,727 --> 00:26:53,718
And in such a remote
part of the world,
293
00:26:53,767 --> 00:26:55,678
that is almost impossible.
294
00:27:04,647 --> 00:27:06,478
Still weird, still don't feel like
295
00:27:06,527 --> 00:27:11,317
I've really broken into the community
or the family yet.
296
00:27:11,367 --> 00:27:14,916
But I'm hoping that, just by
chipping away and being here
297
00:27:14,967 --> 00:27:19,438
and always being helpful
and smiling, that they'll realise...
298
00:27:19,487 --> 00:27:22,206
that I'm not all that bad and...
299
00:27:22,247 --> 00:27:24,841
lighten up a bit. That's my hope.
300
00:27:24,887 --> 00:27:26,639
As we drink wayus,
301
00:27:26,687 --> 00:27:30,475
Mantu and Carmela tell me what
to expect from the ayahuasca.
302
00:27:30,527 --> 00:27:32,279
Today's the big day.
303
00:28:26,047 --> 00:28:27,526
Right.
304
00:28:29,087 --> 00:28:30,998
Time for my morning vomit.
305
00:28:32,807 --> 00:28:37,801
(RETCHING)
306
00:28:40,247 --> 00:28:41,566
After this now,
307
00:28:41,607 --> 00:28:45,964
I'm just going to have
a bowl of masata...
308
00:28:46,007 --> 00:28:50,797
and that's going to be the only
food substance I have all day
309
00:28:50,847 --> 00:28:54,556
until I drink
the ayahuasca this evening.
310
00:28:59,447 --> 00:29:03,520
Saris is not well,
so two of the elders
311
00:29:03,567 --> 00:29:07,606
have been given the responsibility
of organising the ceremony.
312
00:29:14,967 --> 00:29:18,004
The ayahuasca is crushed,
then boiled.
313
00:29:25,167 --> 00:29:29,001
The drumming not only
brings in the spirits and...
314
00:29:29,047 --> 00:29:32,756
entices the visions,
but it's also an announcement
315
00:29:32,807 --> 00:29:34,684
to everyone in the surrounding area
316
00:29:34,727 --> 00:29:37,287
that we have an ayahuasca ceremony
going on today.
317
00:29:37,327 --> 00:29:41,525
And as a result, lots of faces
peering in all around.
318
00:29:41,567 --> 00:29:43,205
It's a real community spirit,
it's lovely.
319
00:29:45,127 --> 00:29:49,359
This is Mashenkish,
an elder from a nearby village.
320
00:29:49,407 --> 00:29:51,398
He will preside over
the ceremony today.
321
00:29:51,447 --> 00:29:56,157
He wears a traditional
toucan feather headdress.
322
00:29:56,207 --> 00:30:01,645
As evening approaches,
I'm sent to the river to wash.
323
00:30:06,767 --> 00:30:10,680
I think the hardest thing of all
is gonna be just drinking litres of
324
00:30:10,727 --> 00:30:14,959
really nasty, toxic, bitterjuice.
That's gonna be the hard bit.
325
00:30:15,007 --> 00:30:19,842
But it's still a lovely ritual,
I'm really looking forward to it.
326
00:30:19,887 --> 00:30:22,685
There's a lot of build-up,
327
00:30:22,727 --> 00:30:29,326
and of course, central to the Achuar
way of looking at life is this vision.
328
00:30:29,367 --> 00:30:32,564
You might not get it powerfully,
you might not get it first time,
329
00:30:32,607 --> 00:30:36,282
but you must have it, and that is
something that's important to them.
330
00:30:36,327 --> 00:30:39,922
It's how they see,
how they look forward in their lives,
331
00:30:39,967 --> 00:30:43,926
and it's also how they fight their
battles, as part of a community.
332
00:30:47,047 --> 00:30:50,164
As night falls, the ceremony begins.
333
00:30:54,047 --> 00:30:58,404
About 20 people
will take the ayahuasca.
334
00:30:58,447 --> 00:31:00,915
As we had the honour
of preparing the vine,
335
00:31:00,967 --> 00:31:03,037
the two elders and I
will drink later.
336
00:31:05,967 --> 00:31:09,596
It's important that when you drink
the ayahuasca, it's held by the hand
337
00:31:09,647 --> 00:31:12,241
of a respected elder,
cos he has the power
338
00:31:12,287 --> 00:31:13,959
which he may be able to give to you.
339
00:31:15,527 --> 00:31:19,440
The participants down litres
of the foul-tasting brew.
340
00:31:20,767 --> 00:31:23,600
Then the vomiting starts.
341
00:31:25,727 --> 00:31:29,322
You must vomit until
all the ayahuasca has come up,
342
00:31:29,367 --> 00:31:31,119
then drink litres of water.
343
00:31:31,167 --> 00:31:35,240
This must also be expelled
until there is nothing left.
344
00:31:35,287 --> 00:31:39,439
If you don't,
you may receive a bad vision.
345
00:31:39,487 --> 00:31:44,003
I've vomited every day this week,
but this is something else.
346
00:31:44,047 --> 00:31:48,165
(HE RETCHES)
I've never seen anything like it.
347
00:31:48,207 --> 00:31:50,437
And it's me next.
348
00:31:54,607 --> 00:31:58,316
We've also got our own special bowl
which was taken out earlier
349
00:31:58,367 --> 00:32:00,403
with all the really strong stuff,
350
00:32:00,447 --> 00:32:05,077
so we've got twice the amount,
fewer people, stronger potion.
351
00:32:05,127 --> 00:32:06,845
It's not looking good.
352
00:32:09,047 --> 00:32:11,880
(LOUD RETCHING)
353
00:32:14,847 --> 00:32:16,883
Well done.
354
00:32:19,407 --> 00:32:21,363
Soon it's my turn.
355
00:32:32,567 --> 00:32:36,401
Immediately, I feel as if
I've been poisoned.
356
00:32:36,447 --> 00:32:39,166
But it's only just beginning.
357
00:32:44,927 --> 00:32:49,955
I'm feeling like,
already, I don't know why,
358
00:32:50,007 --> 00:32:52,441
but just shaking all over, just...
359
00:33:02,047 --> 00:33:05,756
I have to drink about four litres.
360
00:33:05,807 --> 00:33:10,278
But the taste is so disgusting
that it triggers my gag reflex.
361
00:33:40,047 --> 00:33:43,926
It's just sitting there
like a lead weight
362
00:33:43,967 --> 00:33:46,197
of what feels like
363
00:33:46,247 --> 00:33:50,035
evil menace in my stomach.
364
00:33:56,647 --> 00:33:58,842
We've got more.
365
00:34:19,207 --> 00:34:24,201
I'm going to let it sit
for as long as I can...
366
00:34:24,247 --> 00:34:27,205
to do its work.
367
00:34:27,247 --> 00:34:30,239
But I know I've got to
get it all out later,
368
00:34:30,287 --> 00:34:32,676
but I'm gonna try and keep it in
369
00:34:32,727 --> 00:34:35,366
because I really
want to have a vision.
370
00:34:35,407 --> 00:34:38,001
At this rate, I will.
371
00:34:55,087 --> 00:34:57,317
(HE RETCHES, LIQUID SPLASHES)
372
00:35:09,847 --> 00:35:12,156
The bowl is empty. Thank God.
373
00:35:18,567 --> 00:35:23,118
Mantu brings me water.
Then that, too, has to come up.
374
00:35:27,487 --> 00:35:28,886
OK, in here?
375
00:35:42,407 --> 00:35:45,126
That one single act
376
00:35:45,167 --> 00:35:49,285
is the most wonderful thing that's
happened to me since I've been here,
377
00:35:49,327 --> 00:35:50,680
and it's so lovely.
378
00:35:50,727 --> 00:35:55,243
Mantu, who's so stoical
and rarely smiles, and has just been
379
00:35:55,287 --> 00:35:59,166
a wonderful host, but always
just a little bit separate,
380
00:35:59,207 --> 00:36:02,165
has just looked after me,
at this moment,
381
00:36:02,207 --> 00:36:04,767
when I really needed him,
so nicely.
382
00:36:04,807 --> 00:36:06,718
And just washing my feet, imagine!
383
00:36:06,767 --> 00:36:11,477
That's really made my complete stay.
I'm so happy.
384
00:36:16,407 --> 00:36:21,003
At last, we settle down to sleep
and wait for the visions to come.
385
00:36:21,047 --> 00:36:23,959
Mantu watches over me.
386
00:36:36,327 --> 00:36:38,682
Before dawn, the drum starts again,
387
00:36:38,727 --> 00:36:42,561
and it's time to reveal
what dreams have come.
388
00:36:42,607 --> 00:36:44,438
Jorge thinks he has seen something.
389
00:36:52,127 --> 00:36:55,119
But, for me, nothing.
390
00:36:57,447 --> 00:37:00,086
There was a moment when I thought
everything was changing,
391
00:37:00,127 --> 00:37:03,278
when this wind came through
and we could hear distant thunder,
392
00:37:03,327 --> 00:37:05,124
and there was this bat flying around,
393
00:37:05,167 --> 00:37:08,796
and I had this moment of paranoia
that I thought it was a vampire bat
394
00:37:08,847 --> 00:37:13,523
and was going to bite me and give me
rabies. So that kept me up for a while,
395
00:37:13,567 --> 00:37:17,924
and I thought maybe something
was starting, but in reality,
396
00:37:17,967 --> 00:37:22,324
it just didn't happen,
so I'm really a bit disappointed.
397
00:37:28,807 --> 00:37:31,879
Just come to say thank you, really.
Thank you and goodbye.
398
00:37:31,927 --> 00:37:35,966
It's time to leave Wijint
and continue on my journey.
399
00:37:36,007 --> 00:37:39,841
Mashenkish tells me it's common
not to have a vision the first time,
400
00:37:39,887 --> 00:37:41,878
but that I must try again.
401
00:37:41,927 --> 00:37:44,760
Muchas gracias.
402
00:37:48,807 --> 00:37:54,677
Although I didn't find my vision,
I did find friendship and fear.
403
00:37:54,727 --> 00:37:57,446
The Achuar are fighting
for their way of life
404
00:37:57,487 --> 00:37:59,205
as the modern world encroaches.
405
00:37:59,247 --> 00:38:03,843
Their lives and culture stand
at a crucial point of change.
406
00:38:03,887 --> 00:38:06,560
I want to see
what they are fighting against
407
00:38:06,607 --> 00:38:09,280
and what can happen
when the oil companies come.
408
00:38:09,327 --> 00:38:15,482
So much of the Peruvian Amazon
has been split up into oil blocks or lots
409
00:38:15,527 --> 00:38:17,245
for exploration and extraction,
410
00:38:17,287 --> 00:38:19,118
and the area that I'm in now
411
00:38:19,167 --> 00:38:23,046
was one of the first to have
actually had oil found in it.
412
00:38:24,327 --> 00:38:28,206
The Rio Corrientes lies just east
of the village of Wijint,
413
00:38:28,247 --> 00:38:30,203
but it's a world away.
414
00:38:35,127 --> 00:38:37,960
The oil companies began
their extraction of crude here
415
00:38:38,007 --> 00:38:41,716
before the indigenous people
were awarded title to their land.
416
00:38:41,767 --> 00:38:44,839
The law has now changed,
but it comes too late
417
00:38:44,887 --> 00:38:47,321
for many of the communities on this river.
418
00:38:49,287 --> 00:38:51,642
I was just wondering
what it must be like
419
00:38:51,687 --> 00:38:55,885
in those days to have been an indigenous
community, not having any idea
420
00:38:55,927 --> 00:38:58,885
that your world was about to change.
421
00:38:58,927 --> 00:39:02,363
People suddenly arriving
without any prior notice,
422
00:39:02,407 --> 00:39:05,797
cutting long lines in the jungle,
exploding every hundred metres
423
00:39:05,847 --> 00:39:11,205
to discover what's under the soil, then
lots and lots of labour forces coming in
424
00:39:11,247 --> 00:39:14,125
and roads being built,
you having to move away,
425
00:39:14,167 --> 00:39:16,237
lines being cut through villages,
426
00:39:16,287 --> 00:39:20,166
and the local people never having
anyone to talk to,
427
00:39:20,207 --> 00:39:22,767
or to complain to,
about these problems.
428
00:39:32,047 --> 00:39:35,403
This is Andoas -
an oil town, deep in the jungle.
429
00:39:37,967 --> 00:39:43,439
I came here hoping to film the effects
of oil extraction in the rainforest.
430
00:39:43,487 --> 00:39:47,366
I'm not sure I need to look
much further than this.
431
00:39:58,127 --> 00:40:00,402
It's a relief to head out
into the jungle,
432
00:40:00,447 --> 00:40:03,166
but the effects of the oil industry
are everywhere.
433
00:40:06,247 --> 00:40:09,398
So much machinery and plant,
like this.
434
00:40:09,447 --> 00:40:11,756
We're just coming across
another one,
435
00:40:11,807 --> 00:40:13,957
in the middle of nowhere.
436
00:40:15,007 --> 00:40:18,397
We've arranged to meet
an Achuar man called Guevara.
437
00:40:18,447 --> 00:40:22,918
He works as an environmental monitor,
checking for the signs of pollution.
438
00:40:22,967 --> 00:40:26,721
He tells me there's been
a spill just a few weeks ago.
439
00:40:30,607 --> 00:40:33,997
We were on the river for over an hour,
440
00:40:34,047 --> 00:40:36,481
and we've been trekking for 20 minutes,
441
00:40:36,527 --> 00:40:42,318
and in this, what should be the village's
traditional hunting grounds,
442
00:40:42,367 --> 00:40:47,361
there's only one thing that's dominating
my experience at the moment,
443
00:40:47,407 --> 00:40:50,285
and that's the extraordinary sound...
444
00:40:50,327 --> 00:40:51,919
(DISTANT HUMMING)
445
00:40:51,967 --> 00:40:55,084
...this massive generator
that's some distance ahead of us.
446
00:41:01,927 --> 00:41:05,397
(LOUD HUMMING)
We emerge into a clearing.
447
00:41:13,447 --> 00:41:16,359
Even if you could hear me,
448
00:41:16,407 --> 00:41:19,717
I don't really need
to say anything, do I?
449
00:41:20,967 --> 00:41:24,357
This is a pumping station,
moving oil from a nearby well.
450
00:41:24,407 --> 00:41:30,437
An hour's walk away, we find
the oil well and the site of the spill.
451
00:41:39,047 --> 00:41:45,885
Yeah, here you go. Already...
only a few feet away from the slick.
452
00:41:45,927 --> 00:41:49,283
This is two weeks ago, let's not forget.
It's been cleaned up well.
453
00:41:49,327 --> 00:41:52,399
But it's the first time
I've ever actually come this close to
454
00:41:52,447 --> 00:41:57,237
this sort of crude oil,
bitumen, tarry stuff,
455
00:41:57,287 --> 00:41:59,676
and I think I'm going to have...
456
00:41:59,727 --> 00:42:02,287
oily fingers for the rest of the day.
457
00:42:02,327 --> 00:42:06,525
It's really...
It's really not great stuff.
458
00:42:07,727 --> 00:42:11,925
As we move down into the stream,
we can see the effects of the spill.
459
00:42:11,967 --> 00:42:18,156
The oil company has cleaned
most of it up, but it's still devastating.
460
00:42:56,047 --> 00:43:03,283
This spill happened 17 days ago,
and all of this crude here
461
00:43:03,327 --> 00:43:08,037
has made its way down through
this tributary into the main river,
462
00:43:08,087 --> 00:43:11,966
which is the source
that all the villagers drink from,
463
00:43:12,007 --> 00:43:15,886
and every single living thing
in this particular area here -
464
00:43:15,927 --> 00:43:18,919
there is no doubt at all -
will have died.
465
00:43:18,967 --> 00:43:23,245
It's just mass destruction.
It's all I can see around me.
466
00:43:27,927 --> 00:43:30,395
A stream runs into the Corrientes,
467
00:43:30,447 --> 00:43:33,757
which, in turn,
runs through Guevara's village.
468
00:43:33,807 --> 00:43:38,961
His people no longer drink
the water or eat the fish.
469
00:43:52,927 --> 00:43:54,360
The oil companies insist
470
00:43:54,407 --> 00:43:57,319
that regular tests are carried out
by government agencies
471
00:43:57,367 --> 00:44:00,439
and there's no risk to human health
or the ecosystem.
472
00:44:00,487 --> 00:44:03,559
Those who live here
aren't convinced.
473
00:44:26,447 --> 00:44:30,406
That night,
we stay in Guevara's village.
474
00:44:30,447 --> 00:44:33,996
40 years ago, this was
a traditional Achuar community.
475
00:44:35,207 --> 00:44:39,485
The difference between here
and Wijint is tangible.
476
00:44:39,527 --> 00:44:41,995
Electricity, TVs, money.
477
00:44:42,047 --> 00:44:44,356
But what has been lost?
478
00:44:50,487 --> 00:44:54,526
We leave Andoas the next day,
heading south down the Rio Pastaza.
479
00:44:59,207 --> 00:45:03,519
I feel really very sad,
actually leaving Andoas
480
00:45:03,567 --> 00:45:08,846
and the River Corrientes,
but the point, really, is that...
481
00:45:08,887 --> 00:45:13,119
there's billions and billions of dollars
being made in the oil industry here,
482
00:45:13,167 --> 00:45:17,922
and sadly, so very little of it
seems to be going
483
00:45:17,967 --> 00:45:22,597
to the people who own the land
on which the oil's being extracted,
484
00:45:22,647 --> 00:45:25,320
and the people who are having their lives,
485
00:45:25,367 --> 00:45:28,643
both health-wise and socially,
486
00:45:28,687 --> 00:45:32,521
just completely turned inside out.
487
00:45:47,967 --> 00:45:50,606
We head south again,
down the Marañon,
488
00:45:50,647 --> 00:45:52,683
towards the main flow of the river.
489
00:45:52,727 --> 00:45:56,003
This is an important point
on my journey.
490
00:46:00,807 --> 00:46:04,163
Even though I've been journeying
for three whole months,
491
00:46:04,207 --> 00:46:07,722
amazingly, this place here
is the first location
492
00:46:07,767 --> 00:46:12,966
that the river is actually
formally known as the Amazon.
493
00:46:13,007 --> 00:46:15,441
It's going to change its name again,
494
00:46:15,487 --> 00:46:19,196
and I'm going to go through many
different transformations of this river,
495
00:46:19,247 --> 00:46:23,604
but for now, just being here feels
amazing.
496
00:46:25,127 --> 00:46:28,164
I'm travelling east on the Amazon
for the first time,
497
00:46:28,207 --> 00:46:30,482
heading for the jungle port of Iquitos,
498
00:46:30,527 --> 00:46:33,599
the Peruvian Amazon's biggest city.
499
00:46:36,007 --> 00:46:38,726
It was built on the wealth
of the rubber boom,
500
00:46:38,767 --> 00:46:41,361
and has a certain faded opulence.
501
00:46:44,367 --> 00:46:46,642
Now, Iquitos is becoming a centre
502
00:46:46,687 --> 00:46:51,044
for anotherjungle product -
this time, my old friend ayahuasca.
503
00:46:52,527 --> 00:46:58,045
I'm loving Iquitos. It's got
a real energy and buzz about it.
504
00:46:58,087 --> 00:47:00,806
It's so busy and colourful.
505
00:47:00,847 --> 00:47:04,476
It smells dirty
and it's really fun.
506
00:47:04,527 --> 00:47:09,601
It's so strange
being in quite a busy city suddenly,
507
00:47:09,647 --> 00:47:11,797
having been in small towns
508
00:47:11,847 --> 00:47:16,159
and in the jungle
and on the river for so long.
509
00:47:22,967 --> 00:47:27,040
I promised the elders of Wijint
I'd find my vision,
510
00:47:27,087 --> 00:47:28,759
and I think this is the place to do it.
511
00:47:35,687 --> 00:47:38,520
There are a number of different ways
of doing ayahuasca
512
00:47:38,567 --> 00:47:40,762
that the indigenous peoples do
in the Amazon.
513
00:47:40,807 --> 00:47:43,401
One is just the vine itself, like I did.
514
00:47:43,447 --> 00:47:47,201
But many of the tribal communities
mix it with other plants
515
00:47:47,247 --> 00:47:50,922
that bring on a much deeper,
more powerful, strong and spiritual
516
00:47:50,967 --> 00:47:55,597
and visionary experience,
and it's that I'm going to try and do,
517
00:47:55,647 --> 00:47:59,959
and I've found a place that does it
nearby here, in Iquitos,
518
00:48:00,007 --> 00:48:02,475
and I'm heading off there tomorrow
to give it a go.
519
00:48:13,167 --> 00:48:18,400
Percy Garcia Lozano is one of
the youngest shamans in Iquitos.
520
00:48:18,447 --> 00:48:20,563
His grandfather was a boatman
on the Amazon
521
00:48:20,607 --> 00:48:24,236
and taught him the secrets of the tribes
he met on his travels.
522
00:48:28,047 --> 00:48:31,437
Walking through the forest
with Percy is an education.
523
00:48:31,487 --> 00:48:33,796
Where I see just trees and plants,
524
00:48:33,847 --> 00:48:36,441
he sees remedies
for all manner of ailments.
525
00:48:40,687 --> 00:48:42,006
Wakrapona?
526
00:48:59,887 --> 00:49:01,878
Pene pequeno, si!
527
00:49:15,847 --> 00:49:18,725
(BRUCE LAUGHS)
528
00:49:18,767 --> 00:49:21,440
Gracias. Well, I think
we'll move on after that one!
529
00:49:28,007 --> 00:49:31,795
Percy will preside over
the ayahuasca ceremony.
530
00:49:31,847 --> 00:49:36,159
Unlike the Achuar,
he adds other leaves to the mix.
531
00:49:36,207 --> 00:49:40,359
Chacrona and datura,
both powerful hallucinogens.
532
00:49:40,407 --> 00:49:43,080
Where the Achuar visions
are subtle dreams,
533
00:49:43,127 --> 00:49:46,199
the experience here will be much stronger.
534
00:49:49,407 --> 00:49:53,446
There are other people
staying at the retreat.
535
00:49:53,487 --> 00:49:56,638
Peruvians and travellers
from all over the world,
536
00:49:56,687 --> 00:49:59,247
all seeking something from the ayahuasca.
537
00:49:59,287 --> 00:50:03,565
It has been used to treat addiction
as well as to induce visions.
538
00:50:04,927 --> 00:50:09,284
Often I'm wary of this sort of thing
outside an authentic tribal setting,
539
00:50:09,327 --> 00:50:14,162
but I find Percy convincing
and the other participants reassuring.
540
00:50:19,007 --> 00:50:22,363
I heard about ayahuasca ten years ago
and I decided to look for it
541
00:50:22,407 --> 00:50:26,446
because I was having
a bad time in my life.
542
00:50:26,487 --> 00:50:29,399
And it was great, amazing.
I stopped smoking.
543
00:50:29,447 --> 00:50:30,562
OK.
544
00:50:30,607 --> 00:50:32,962
I first heard about this
only a few months ago,
545
00:50:33,007 --> 00:50:37,762
and I'm just curious why so many
researchers and travellers alike
546
00:50:37,807 --> 00:50:39,365
are coming to this part of the world
547
00:50:39,407 --> 00:50:42,843
and coming back with experiences
that are just really interesting.
548
00:50:42,887 --> 00:50:45,685
Sure. How was it for you,
the first time you did it?
549
00:50:45,727 --> 00:50:47,683
- Absolutely amazing.
- What did it do?
550
00:50:47,727 --> 00:50:49,365
It's so hard to explain.
551
00:50:49,407 --> 00:50:53,844
You'll find out tonight, but it was
just an unbelievable experience.
552
00:50:53,887 --> 00:50:57,516
The best dream you've ever had,
but it's real.
553
00:50:57,567 --> 00:51:00,081
(THUNDER RUMBLES)
554
00:51:00,127 --> 00:51:04,564
A storm rumbles over the camp
as evening approaches.
555
00:51:04,607 --> 00:51:08,680
I have a sense of foreboding
about the night to come.
556
00:51:08,727 --> 00:51:11,002
What will my vision be?
557
00:51:18,287 --> 00:51:21,563
I'm feeling quite apprehensive, actually.
558
00:51:21,607 --> 00:51:25,077
I think this is going to be
quite a powerful experience for me.
559
00:51:25,127 --> 00:51:28,642
From everything I've read and
from the people I've spoken to,
560
00:51:28,687 --> 00:51:31,918
this is not something
anyone should take lightly.
561
00:51:31,967 --> 00:51:35,676
I don't know what's going to happen,
is the honest truth, I've no idea.
562
00:51:35,727 --> 00:51:39,037
I think that the ultimate result
of it will be positive,
563
00:51:39,087 --> 00:51:43,763
but I wouldn't be surprised if I go
through some quite traumatic moments
564
00:51:43,807 --> 00:51:45,365
during this process tonight.
565
00:51:47,487 --> 00:51:51,400
One by one, we step forward
to drink a bitter, viscous shot
566
00:51:51,447 --> 00:51:54,439
of the concentrated ayahuasca.
567
00:51:54,487 --> 00:51:59,322
Totally different to my last experience
of doing ayahuasca,
568
00:51:59,367 --> 00:52:01,005
which was very fluid.
569
00:52:01,047 --> 00:52:04,596
Lots and lots of people
were doing it in one area.
570
00:52:04,647 --> 00:52:07,923
This is a totally different
sort of ceremony,
571
00:52:07,967 --> 00:52:13,166
and all that remains is to see what
the evening holds in store for me.
572
00:52:13,207 --> 00:52:14,845
No going back.
573
00:52:19,087 --> 00:52:20,998
(RATTLING)
574
00:52:23,927 --> 00:52:28,205
In the darkness, Percy sings
and whistles to call in the spirits
575
00:52:28,247 --> 00:52:30,044
and their visions.
576
00:52:33,967 --> 00:52:37,516
Before long,
the effects begin to kick in.
577
00:52:37,567 --> 00:52:39,956
Some are familiar.
578
00:52:42,087 --> 00:52:45,045
And others more difficult
for me to dismiss.
579
00:52:46,207 --> 00:52:48,721
(PERCY WHISTLES)
580
00:52:51,167 --> 00:52:57,083
As the ayahuasca floods my system,
a battle rages inside my head.
581
00:52:57,127 --> 00:53:02,599
The medicine is working in ways
which, at first, are hard to bear.
582
00:53:24,487 --> 00:53:28,924
I just couldn't stop my ego
talking all the time,
583
00:53:28,967 --> 00:53:33,040
analysing and questioning
the experience as it happened.
584
00:53:33,087 --> 00:53:35,965
And so, for hours
I had this battle between
585
00:53:36,007 --> 00:53:38,521
my conscious mind and the plant.
586
00:53:38,567 --> 00:53:42,355
My arrogant self
was challenging the vision.
587
00:53:42,407 --> 00:53:46,605
At one stage, I talked to a snake,
but the recurring image was of
588
00:53:46,647 --> 00:53:48,922
the ugliness of my own ego.
589
00:53:48,967 --> 00:53:52,562
The ayahuasca was not going to
reveal anything else
590
00:53:52,607 --> 00:53:55,280
until I dealt with this first.
591
00:53:55,327 --> 00:53:59,400
It was a powerful lesson
and a humbling experience.
592
00:54:10,887 --> 00:54:15,039
Somewhat chastened, I leave Iquitos
and head down river once more.
593
00:54:15,087 --> 00:54:20,036
But from now on, I will be guided
by my vision, to try to be humble
594
00:54:20,087 --> 00:54:24,000
as I listen to the stories of the people
I meet on my Amazon journey.
595
00:54:28,247 --> 00:54:31,239
Finally, I am entering Brazil.
596
00:54:31,287 --> 00:54:34,802
My first stop will be the town
of Benjamin Constant,
597
00:54:34,847 --> 00:54:37,156
and my timing couldn't be better.
598
00:54:38,167 --> 00:54:42,285
As one might expect from a frontier town,
Benjamin Constant's got
599
00:54:42,327 --> 00:54:44,443
quite a funny reputation,
600
00:54:44,487 --> 00:54:49,038
and I've no idea
what's in store for me this next week.
601
00:54:49,087 --> 00:54:52,318
But I do know it's carnival time.
602
00:54:56,727 --> 00:55:00,959
Carnival has its origins in ancient Rome,
where slaves and masters
603
00:55:01,007 --> 00:55:05,364
would exchange clothes
for a day of drunken revelry.
604
00:55:05,407 --> 00:55:07,443
It was later modified
by the Catholic Church
605
00:55:07,487 --> 00:55:09,955
into a ceremony before Ash Wednesday.
606
00:55:10,007 --> 00:55:14,762
But it soon evolved into
a massive celebration of indulgence.
607
00:55:14,807 --> 00:55:18,561
It's one last blow-out
of alcohol, sex, food
608
00:55:18,607 --> 00:55:21,963
and dancing
before the abstinence of Lent.
609
00:55:22,007 --> 00:55:24,680
I can't wait!
610
00:55:29,127 --> 00:55:30,958
Can you believe it? I love this.
611
00:55:31,847 --> 00:55:34,566
Carnival is celebrated
all over Brazil,
612
00:55:34,607 --> 00:55:37,804
but in Benjamin Constant,
it's a little different.
613
00:55:39,727 --> 00:55:43,515
Cross-dressing is
the order of the day.
614
00:55:43,567 --> 00:55:47,116
I join a group of local businessmen
for a bizarre game of football.
615
00:55:47,167 --> 00:55:49,078
(WHISTLING)
616
00:56:01,047 --> 00:56:03,607
I've been sent off!
617
00:56:03,647 --> 00:56:07,765
How can you get sent off
at a match like this?!
618
00:56:14,527 --> 00:56:18,042
Everyone was just enjoying it
and so not caring and there was no ego.
619
00:56:18,087 --> 00:56:21,875
It was just fun, fun, fun, and it was
the best game I've ever played,
620
00:56:21,927 --> 00:56:23,838
without a doubt, I promise you that.
621
00:56:28,647 --> 00:56:30,285
It's the last night of carnival,
622
00:56:30,327 --> 00:56:33,717
and thousands of people
pack into the town's Sambadrome.
623
00:56:35,607 --> 00:56:39,361
The word ''carnival''originates
from the Latin ''carne vale',
624
00:56:39,407 --> 00:56:41,079
or ''farewell to the flesh''.
625
00:56:42,247 --> 00:56:46,286
For six days,
every town in Brazil is partying.
626
00:56:46,327 --> 00:56:50,479
It's a national holiday
of epic proportions.
627
00:56:50,527 --> 00:56:52,882
Can I introduce
a couple of people to you?
628
00:56:52,927 --> 00:56:58,718
Assistant producer,
director, sound man...and fixer.
629
00:56:58,767 --> 00:57:01,918
There is nobody that's not
getting involved today. Hi, guys!
630
00:57:01,967 --> 00:57:03,241
(LAUGHS)
631
00:57:06,247 --> 00:57:08,886
I've been travelling
for three months now
632
00:57:08,927 --> 00:57:11,805
and I'm ready to let my hair down.
633
00:57:11,847 --> 00:57:14,520
I've been entered into
the carnival queen competition,
634
00:57:14,567 --> 00:57:16,637
and I reckon
I'm in with a good chance.
635
00:57:16,687 --> 00:57:21,477
Everybody who does
the fashion walk parade
636
00:57:21,527 --> 00:57:23,836
has to have a persona.
637
00:57:23,887 --> 00:57:27,277
It's a rule. You've got to be
someone that people know.
638
00:57:27,327 --> 00:57:31,320
So I settled with
the Queen of England.
639
00:57:39,407 --> 00:57:41,921
Somehow, I didn't win.
640
00:57:41,967 --> 00:57:46,119
First prize went to a gaudy strumpet
in a spangly skirt.
641
00:57:46,167 --> 00:57:47,964
There's no accounting for taste.
642
00:57:48,007 --> 00:57:52,797
But it's been the most wonderful
introduction to Brazil.
643
00:57:58,567 --> 00:58:02,003
After six days of parties,
I'm back on the river again,
644
00:58:02,047 --> 00:58:04,720
heading east into the forest.
645
00:58:09,047 --> 00:58:12,722
Next time, I travel into one of
the most remote parts of the Amazon
646
00:58:12,767 --> 00:58:15,884
to see some old friends - the Matis.
647
00:58:15,927 --> 00:58:18,487
Nice to see you,
really nice to see you.
648
00:58:18,527 --> 00:58:23,647
But I find them at a point of crisis,
as an epidemic threatens the tribe.
649
00:58:23,687 --> 00:58:27,600
And I live and work with some of
the people often held responsible
650
00:58:27,647 --> 00:58:30,605
for destroying the forest.
651
00:58:33,687 --> 00:58:40,001
If you want to know more,
visit our website - bbc.co.uk/amazon