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I'm in the Brazilian Amazon,
heading into the heart
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of a highly protected reserve,
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home to the highest concentration
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of uncontacted tribes
anywhere in the world.
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It's a real honour
to call you my friend.
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I meet my old friends the Matis
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who I stayed with two years ago,
and find them in the middle of a crisis.
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And I visit the most powerful tribe
in the region, the Marubo,
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a shamanic people,
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whose elaborate rituals
form the fabric of their daily life.
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But contact with the outside world
has brought disease and destruction.
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Here we go.
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I decide to go and see
the very people who are responsible.
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And discover that the bad guys
aren't bad after all.
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Lots of laughter.
These guys don't stop giggling.
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I've already been travelling thousands
of miles on my journey so far,
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but it's only when I get up here,
into the air,
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that it really strikes me
as to just how large my journey is,
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and just how huge the Amazon is.
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I can see in every direction
for miles and miles,
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but here to me
is the heartland of the Amazon.
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I'm flying just south
of the Amazon River, near the border
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with Peru and Colombia.
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Below is a reserve stretching
over eight million hectares.
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That's roughly the size of Portugal.
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It's called the Vale Do Javari,
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and it's a safe haven for some
of the last tribal peoples of Brazil.
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It's been protected by law
since 1998.
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Down here is an unknown
amount of people
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living out their traditional lives.
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I'm with Tota from Brazil's
Indian Protection Service, or FUNAI.
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After contact with the outside world,
thousands of Indians died from diseases,
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so today's policy is
to leave isolated tribes alone.
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FUNAI has mapped six different
uncontacted groups here,
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but they believe there are more
out there that are still unknown.
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Somewhere in this endless sea of green
that we have beneath us
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is a small clearing with five huts
that we're desperately trying to find,
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because there, housed,
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are the most recently discovered group
of isolated Indians anywhere in Brazil.
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It's like scouring for a tiny needle
in the most enormous haystack.
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With our fuel supply dwindling
and bad weather on the way,
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we decide to give it
just five more minutes.
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Then suddenly our luck changes.
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Oh, my God! I think we've found it.
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Oh, yes, we have.
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There it is, there it is,
there it is. Wow!
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It's incredible to think
the people below us
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live in complete isolation
from the rest of the world.
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Who knows what they're thinking
of this big, noisy white thing
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flying through the air above them,
but it's really important that FUNAI
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does these research trips.
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The weather was against us, and it's
just an endless sea of green here,
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and we didn't have
a proper grid reference,
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so to finally
have found it is amazing.
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The important thing now
is we don't stay too long,
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we allow the FUNAI guides
to get their information
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and then we will leave
these people in peace.
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Amazing.
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It's been a moving day for me today.
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Seeing that settlement
with the isolated people
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is just the most powerful image,
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and I'm so happy that they have
FUNAI looking after their interests.
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And I'm also so happy
that they have this reserve,
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allowing them the space
to live out their lives.
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And I just hope that they're able
to keep that until it is
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that they decide that they want to
make contact with the outside world.
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For the next stage of my journey
I'm back on the river.
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Having seen this vast reserve
from the air, I'm now travelling
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much more slowly, Amazon-style,
into the heart of the Vale Do Javari.
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This is an ancient rainforest, untouched
and unspoilt for thousands of years.
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Not only is it a pristine wilderness,
but the indigenous peoples,
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who are very much part
of that ecosystem, are still here,
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and that's very special.
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Before coming here, the crew and I
had to have thorough health checks,
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letters from our doctors
and a full set of inoculations
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to avoid any risk of bringing in
outside diseases.
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I'm on a journey deep up the River Itui
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to meet a group of people
called the Marubo,
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but on the way, I'm gonna go past
a group called the Matis,
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who are very special to me, cos a couple
of years ago I came and lived with them
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for a month and so there's no way
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I can go past their homestead without
going in to say a quick hello first.
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I've heard that
since I last saw them,
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things haven't gone well
for the Matis.
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There's talk of health problems
within the village,
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so I'm not quite sure
what I'll find when I get there.
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I recognise
one or two of these bends.
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I think we're really close now.
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This boat makes such a racket
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I wouldn't be surprised if there'll
be someone on the bank waiting.
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Yeah, there they are.
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Hi, everyone.
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Compared to the last time
I was here,
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the people waiting on the bank
seem quite subdued and sombre.
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Hello, my friend. How are you?
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Ah, it's nice to see you,
really nice to see you.
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How is everyone?
How is the community?
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Two people? Old people or young?
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I'm so sorry to hear that news.
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Tell me, what is the illness?
What exactly is the problem?
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I'm sorry. I'm so sorry,
my friend, to hear that.
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I'm only here for a short time, but
before I'm invited to stay in the village,
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I'm asked to sit down for
a formal meeting with the chief, Xema.
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It seems I've come
at a very difficult time
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and a very important time,
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so whatever I can do,
please tell me all about it.
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Thank you.
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I'm shocked at the extent
of the suffering.
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They're asking me for my help,
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and my hope is
that by telling their story,
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it will alert people
to what's going on here.
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When I stayed here last time,
I lived with my host, Tumi,
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and his family, spending
a whole month in their home.
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He's had one new family member
since I was here last.
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After you Tumi, Tumi junior.
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- Minke.
- Min... Minke?
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Yeah, si.
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Come on. Hey, little one.
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You didn't burst into tears.
That's quite unusual.
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As night falls, those who are well enough
gather in the maloca -
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or longhouse - to watch
the film I made on my last visit.
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I'm a bit anxious
about how they will react.
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FILM: The long house is the centre
of Matis life -
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a place for eating, meeting
and important rituals.
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This morning, several hunters
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have the bitterjuice of a special root
squeezed into their eyes.
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That is as sore as it looks.
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VOICEOVER: The parts of the film
the audience seem to enjoy the most
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is watching me in pain or feeling ill,
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and it reminds me
of their great sense of humour.
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The Matis were first contacted
by the outside world in 1976.
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Within a decade, over a third
of the tribe had been wiped out
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by outside diseases,
especially measles and flu.
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And now, 30 years on, they're suffering
from yet another wave of epidemics.
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Xema, the chief, has invited me
and the crew into his home.
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He wants us to meet
his 2 1-year-old daughter,
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who's been extremely ill
for the last few months.
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Her condition is getting worse.
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I know it's really difficult
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for you and your whole family, Xema,
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but please tell me what you have
brought me here to show me.
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Tupa,
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you've been told
you have a form of hepatitis,
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but how is it manifesting itself?
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Xema and his wife, Tupa, have
already lost a son to hepatitis,
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and are terrified of losing
their daughter as well.
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Hepatitis appears to be slowly
working its way through the community.
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With only 260 people in the tribe,
the very survival
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of the whole Matis culture is at risk.
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Paradoxically,
it's the fit young men in the village
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who seem to be responsible
for spreading the illness.
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Hepatitis B is
a sexually transmitted disease,
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brought into the Amazon from the outside
world by loggers and other incomers
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who then spread it amongst
the prostitutes in the local town.
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At the village clinic, the nurse tries
to teach some basic sex education,
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but it's a complex issue
trying to change cultural behaviour,
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and the risks are now much greater.
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While the government
health agency Funasa
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says it's working hard
to deal with the crisis in the region,
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the people here feel forgotten about.
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They say the medicines
simply aren't getting through.
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Later that night the elders
take their seats in the long house
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to discuss the ongoing health problems.
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Before the arrival of outside diseases,
the Matis relied on the village shaman -
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or medicine man -
to treat their illnesses.
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I hear that the Matis had powerful
shamans once. Where did they go?
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I'm about to leave the village
to continue my journey
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but, before I go, my old friends
have a little surprise in store for me.
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I've just been introduced to one
of the new arrivals in the village
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and this young chap here is called Bruce,
much to my surprise.
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Bruce. Bruce, Bruce.
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Yeah?
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The crew are teasing me, saying
they can see the likeness which I find
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a bit cheeky, so I've brought along
his father to prove that it wasn't me.
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But apparently he's a good kid.
He plays a lot
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and we've just been introduced
and he's a bit shy.
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Nice to meet you, mate.
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Tumi, I'm off.
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I'm sorry my visit has been so short,
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but your message is very clear to me
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and please rest assured
that I will pass your message on.
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Wow... I'm so touched by your words.
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It's a real honour
to call you my friend,
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Thank you for this,
thank you so much.
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Best of luck to all of you,
best of luck.
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I'll be thinking of you.
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I'm back on the water,
heading further up the River Itui,
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travelling deeper
into the Vale Do Javari.
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It's really sad listening to the Matis
talk about their recent history,
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and so tragic,
and one of the most poignant things
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is that they feel...is the loss
of their shamanic culture.
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All their shamans have disappeared,
but there is one tribal group
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in the Javari region that still has
a very strong tradition in that way
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and they're a group of people
called the Marubo
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and it's them that I hope to meet next.
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But this is the Amazon,
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where nothing ever
quite goes according to plan.
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Our boat has broken down.
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So we'll have to re-plan.
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This boat's had it.
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I'm cross decking,
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to a little version.
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I'm on my way
to the Marubo village of Parana.
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The Marubo are considered
the most powerful
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of all the tribes in Javari.
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They've been in contact
with the wider world for over 100 years,
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00:18:26,047 --> 00:18:30,120
but have chosen to stay in their villages
all the way up here
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in the headwaters of the River Itui.
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They already know I'm coming
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00:18:33,847 --> 00:18:38,238
as we sent someone ahead
to ask their permission.
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We've been told this village is home to
the most powerful shaman in the region.
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I think this gentleman here...
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00:18:47,487 --> 00:18:50,524
is Robson, who I've heard so much about.
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Me nome Bruce.
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Robson. Nice to meet you.
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Thank you, what a lovely meeting.
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Hello there, hey.
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I want to go and shake everyone's hands
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but I think I've been ushered
into the longhouse,
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so I'm going to do that first. Wow.
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Me nome Makibre.
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Makibre, me nome Bruce.
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After such a quiet
and sad time with the Matis,
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it's a shock to be given
such a boisterous welcome.
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(MARUBO WHOOPING)
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This is extraordinary.
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I've never in my life
had a greeting like this before.
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Very physical, very hands on.
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00:21:08,527 --> 00:21:10,961
The Marubo
is a relatively new tribe.
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It was formed
from various scattered groups
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00:21:13,647 --> 00:21:18,277
that fled deep into the forest
after the rubber boom of the 19th century
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00:21:18,327 --> 00:21:21,637
when tribal peoples were forced
into slave labour.
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This hybrid group has now combined
its various dances and rituals
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00:21:26,407 --> 00:21:28,716
to form a new and vibrant culture.
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They've built their villages here,
deep in the Vale Do Javari,
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as far from the outside world
as possible.
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00:21:56,967 --> 00:22:01,085
The Marubo seem to be putting on
a bit of a show for me and the crew.
238
00:22:01,127 --> 00:22:04,358
They're obviously proud of
their culture and traditions
239
00:22:04,407 --> 00:22:06,716
and are keen to show them off.
240
00:22:13,367 --> 00:22:16,916
The dancing goes on all afternoon
and into the evening
241
00:22:16,967 --> 00:22:19,276
and shows no signs of slowing down.
242
00:22:19,327 --> 00:22:21,966
I think it's going to be a late night.
243
00:22:25,207 --> 00:22:27,880
As if today hasn't already been full of
244
00:22:27,927 --> 00:22:31,920
enough amazing occurrences,
I'm just about to witness
245
00:22:31,967 --> 00:22:36,404
a shamanic ceremony on a child
who's not feeling very well.
246
00:22:40,127 --> 00:22:43,756
Robson, the shaman,
lies in his hammock in its special place
247
00:22:43,807 --> 00:22:45,559
over the door of the longhouse
248
00:22:45,607 --> 00:22:47,723
and starts to chant
the ancient songs
249
00:22:47,767 --> 00:22:51,601
that herald the beginning
of a shamanic session.
250
00:22:51,647 --> 00:22:54,559
(CHANTING)
251
00:23:02,647 --> 00:23:06,435
(OTHERS JOINING IN)
252
00:23:25,807 --> 00:23:29,720
The men chant for hours
late into the night
253
00:23:29,767 --> 00:23:34,761
and slowly enter the trance-like state
needed to perform their healing rituals.
254
00:23:43,727 --> 00:23:49,199
What started as a day and an evening
of cultural song and dance
255
00:23:49,247 --> 00:23:54,162
has turned into
the most intense night of shamanising.
256
00:23:54,207 --> 00:23:57,597
These two children are suffering from
257
00:23:57,647 --> 00:24:01,526
what I can only describe as
flu-like symptoms
258
00:24:01,567 --> 00:24:08,962
and these shaman here
are drawing out all of that sickness.
259
00:24:15,447 --> 00:24:18,359
What I can feel now, looking around
260
00:24:18,407 --> 00:24:22,286
at the intensity on everyone's faces
261
00:24:22,327 --> 00:24:25,956
is just pure unadulterated belief.
262
00:24:26,007 --> 00:24:27,963
It's extraordinary.
263
00:24:38,407 --> 00:24:43,003
The hypnotic rhythms continue
into the early hours of the morning.
264
00:24:44,247 --> 00:24:48,923
The flu is an introduced disease,
but the Marubo still believe
265
00:24:48,967 --> 00:24:52,004
that the power of their songs
can heal their children
266
00:24:52,047 --> 00:24:55,722
and it's this commitment
to their shamanic traditions
267
00:24:55,767 --> 00:24:58,839
that seems to give them such strength.
268
00:25:16,047 --> 00:25:20,996
I've been given permission to move
into the maloca, the longhouse.
269
00:25:25,407 --> 00:25:27,079
Hey...
270
00:25:30,247 --> 00:25:33,478
The Marubo live communally
in the longhouse
271
00:25:33,527 --> 00:25:35,483
which will be my home for the next week.
272
00:25:35,527 --> 00:25:40,237
Each family unit has its own private area
but neighbours often share food
273
00:25:40,287 --> 00:25:43,802
and it feels like
you're part of one large family.
274
00:25:47,247 --> 00:25:50,956
After breakfast
we head into the forest, hunting for
275
00:25:51,007 --> 00:25:54,397
the vital ingredients in a ritual test
for the men of the tribe.
276
00:25:58,767 --> 00:26:01,565
Looks can be deceiving.
277
00:26:01,607 --> 00:26:04,360
If their...
278
00:26:04,407 --> 00:26:07,558
ritual dances don't look
particularly warlike,
279
00:26:07,607 --> 00:26:12,476
some of their other ritual acts
most certainly are pretty hardcore.
280
00:26:12,527 --> 00:26:15,087
This ritual's called
the Tocandira
281
00:26:15,127 --> 00:26:21,282
and apparently, this one
involves ants and their stings.
282
00:26:21,327 --> 00:26:23,966
I'm not particularly
looking forward to it, I must admit.
283
00:26:30,127 --> 00:26:32,357
We've found the ant nest.
284
00:26:34,487 --> 00:26:36,557
We came across... Oh, my Lord,
285
00:26:36,607 --> 00:26:38,598
they're not small, these ants.
286
00:26:39,727 --> 00:26:43,003
The Tocandira ant is also known
as the bullet ant
287
00:26:43,047 --> 00:26:45,117
and has a fearsome reputation
288
00:26:45,167 --> 00:26:48,557
due to its very powerful
and painful sting.
289
00:26:48,607 --> 00:26:50,438
The Marubo use it
as a test of courage.
290
00:26:56,447 --> 00:27:00,679
I've just been given this little pot
of menace to carry
291
00:27:00,727 --> 00:27:03,287
and I had a sudden wave of nausea.
292
00:27:04,927 --> 00:27:06,804
I'm not feeling good right now.
293
00:27:14,487 --> 00:27:18,526
The next part of the ceremony
is to hand out the ants.
294
00:27:18,567 --> 00:27:22,276
Each man carries his own,
wedged into the end of a stick.
295
00:27:22,327 --> 00:27:25,524
I think the idea is to make them
as angry as possible
296
00:27:25,567 --> 00:27:28,001
so that they can inflict maximum pain.
297
00:27:29,647 --> 00:27:31,638
I don't profess for a second
to know much about ants
298
00:27:31,687 --> 00:27:34,997
but it looks like this one
actually has a sting in its tail
299
00:27:35,047 --> 00:27:36,196
which means that's venom
300
00:27:36,247 --> 00:27:39,796
and that's what
we're going to be experiencing.
301
00:27:42,767 --> 00:27:45,600
Robson the shaman
leads the proceedings.
302
00:27:45,647 --> 00:27:48,081
Red plant dye is used
to paint targets
303
00:27:48,127 --> 00:27:50,163
in strategic positions on the body
304
00:27:50,207 --> 00:27:54,166
where the ants will be applied
and encouraged to unleash their stings.
305
00:28:02,687 --> 00:28:04,166
Yeah?
306
00:28:05,767 --> 00:28:07,962
OK.
307
00:28:08,007 --> 00:28:08,996
Wow.
308
00:28:09,047 --> 00:28:12,596
Thank the Lord for that. It looks
like I'm getting let off lightly.
309
00:28:12,647 --> 00:28:15,366
People are walking around
with them on their faces.
310
00:28:25,007 --> 00:28:28,556
Once the ants and the men are ready,
there's another bout of singing
311
00:28:28,607 --> 00:28:32,964
and dancing, as we all head
into the longhouse for the main event.
312
00:28:40,647 --> 00:28:43,798
I'm allergic to wasp stings
and apparently
313
00:28:43,847 --> 00:28:45,838
ant venom is made up
of a similar substance,
314
00:28:45,887 --> 00:28:50,642
so I'm a little nervous
about getting a severe reaction.
315
00:28:57,287 --> 00:28:59,243
It's quite a slow torture
316
00:28:59,287 --> 00:29:04,964
just sitting in line waiting
for you to have your venom delivered.
317
00:29:19,447 --> 00:29:22,359
I've no doubt this is quite painful.
318
00:29:30,767 --> 00:29:33,565
Kakaya, first time.
319
00:29:36,327 --> 00:29:38,522
Ah!
320
00:29:40,087 --> 00:29:41,725
I felt that.
321
00:29:50,087 --> 00:29:51,918
Ouch!
322
00:29:57,127 --> 00:30:00,199
You can see a slight reaction,
very slight.
323
00:30:00,247 --> 00:30:03,364
If I think this is painful,
imagine having it there
324
00:30:03,407 --> 00:30:06,160
and there and there
like some of these guys.
325
00:30:08,287 --> 00:30:09,561
My arm's quite sore still.
326
00:30:09,607 --> 00:30:13,282
It feels like I've still got a couple
of hot needles in there.
327
00:30:13,327 --> 00:30:17,081
We're gonna go all through the night
and I've been told that the reason
328
00:30:17,127 --> 00:30:19,641
we go through the night
is another test.
329
00:30:19,687 --> 00:30:23,965
It's another proof of your courage
and your manliness,
330
00:30:24,007 --> 00:30:27,044
whatever you want to call it,
and very much part of this
331
00:30:27,087 --> 00:30:30,159
is some of the members here
within the community are undergoing
332
00:30:30,207 --> 00:30:35,884
ritual shaman training and they
must be seen to stay up all night.
333
00:30:37,767 --> 00:30:41,521
Some of the men are obviously
in a great deal of pain.
334
00:30:58,047 --> 00:31:01,164
So interesting being here
and experiencing all this.
335
00:31:01,207 --> 00:31:03,880
There's so much depth
to the culture,
336
00:31:03,927 --> 00:31:06,521
it's really proudly shown off here.
337
00:31:06,567 --> 00:31:09,365
I think I'm in for a long night.
338
00:31:11,247 --> 00:31:14,762
In order to stay up all night,
the men take snuff,
339
00:31:14,807 --> 00:31:18,880
or Ape, a traditional mixture
of herbs and tobacco.
340
00:31:19,887 --> 00:31:22,959
The chief, Kakaya, has offered to give me
341
00:31:23,007 --> 00:31:26,682
my first taste
of the Marubo's sacred stimulant.
342
00:31:26,727 --> 00:31:32,199
This is my first time. Can you explain
what I should do, please?
343
00:31:51,967 --> 00:31:54,959
Unfortunately, with my lack
of experience,
344
00:31:55,007 --> 00:31:58,363
I managed to blow the snuff
back into the chief's mouth...
345
00:31:58,407 --> 00:31:59,886
(COUGHING)
346
00:31:59,927 --> 00:32:02,566
A bit of a faux pas
in Marubo culture.
347
00:32:09,767 --> 00:32:10,756
Lo siento.
348
00:32:15,207 --> 00:32:18,279
That first one was so strong,
it really hit me hard
349
00:32:18,327 --> 00:32:21,478
but I think I breathed out
most of it back into his mouth.
350
00:32:21,527 --> 00:32:26,555
Poor guy, he's having to cough up
loads of snuff in his gob.
351
00:32:26,607 --> 00:32:28,882
I feel a bit bad about that.
352
00:32:39,407 --> 00:32:41,875
It's breakfast time in the maloca.
353
00:32:47,567 --> 00:32:55,042
Each of us brings our own sort of...
breakfast addition to the eating area.
354
00:32:56,247 --> 00:33:00,001
I'll bring it down
and place it in front of myself.
355
00:33:00,047 --> 00:33:04,086
But as soon as it's there,
it's for everyone.
356
00:33:04,127 --> 00:33:07,278
Which, in turn, means that...
357
00:33:07,327 --> 00:33:09,636
I can take something
off anyone else's plate.
358
00:33:09,687 --> 00:33:11,803
Let me show you the highlight.
359
00:33:13,367 --> 00:33:15,323
A bit of plantain with this.
360
00:33:17,127 --> 00:33:21,166
It's like a meaty sauce,
but it's also got chillies in.
361
00:33:23,647 --> 00:33:25,603
Delicious!
362
00:33:36,287 --> 00:33:38,482
Neglecting my duties...
363
00:33:40,407 --> 00:33:45,435
Because I told the community
to treat me as a small child,
364
00:33:45,487 --> 00:33:49,446
one of the kids' jobs is
to come and get the refills
365
00:33:49,487 --> 00:33:54,356
and, believe me, we refill a lot,
there's no shortage of food.
366
00:33:57,047 --> 00:33:59,402
All of these pots
are for today's meal.
367
00:34:05,967 --> 00:34:10,006
I can't help but compare
my experience here with the Marubo
368
00:34:10,047 --> 00:34:11,765
to my time with the Matis.
369
00:34:11,807 --> 00:34:13,525
While the Matis are struggling
370
00:34:13,567 --> 00:34:17,116
to find their place in the modern
world, and have lost so much,
371
00:34:17,167 --> 00:34:19,806
the Marubo seem highly motivated
and determined
372
00:34:19,847 --> 00:34:21,963
to keep their culture alive.
373
00:34:28,047 --> 00:34:29,844
I've been wondering to myself
374
00:34:29,887 --> 00:34:33,926
what the secret is for the Marubo's
strength in their culture.
375
00:34:33,967 --> 00:34:36,527
They really are proud of it
and they're strong
376
00:34:36,567 --> 00:34:41,083
and one of the things, maybe, is that
they stamp that identity all the time
377
00:34:41,127 --> 00:34:43,925
and the way they stay long into the night
and all these things,
378
00:34:43,967 --> 00:34:45,764
they're quite regimented, actually.
379
00:34:45,807 --> 00:34:49,322
It's quite a routine that they have,
and even their haircuts,
380
00:34:49,367 --> 00:34:52,279
sitting here next to this guy,
it's kind of military almost.
381
00:35:03,967 --> 00:35:06,925
I'm being painted
in preparation for another ritual
382
00:35:06,967 --> 00:35:09,435
called the Aco ceremony.
383
00:35:09,487 --> 00:35:12,524
There's a strange,
almost cult-like feel about this place,
384
00:35:12,567 --> 00:35:14,523
centred around
the young shaman, Robson,
385
00:35:14,567 --> 00:35:17,559
and I wonder if life is like this
all the time here
386
00:35:17,607 --> 00:35:20,599
or if the camera is making
them feel they have to perform.
387
00:35:20,647 --> 00:35:25,721
Today's ceremony
in our week of magical events
388
00:35:25,767 --> 00:35:32,878
is...off cutting down a tree in order
to make a drum for the longhouse.
389
00:35:41,967 --> 00:35:44,765
The best trees for the Aco
are across the river,
390
00:35:44,807 --> 00:35:47,605
and the men set off
for a hard day's work.
391
00:35:55,847 --> 00:36:00,477
They all seem quite happy
to let me do the hard work. In fact,
392
00:36:00,527 --> 00:36:03,485
they seem to enjoy
watching the gringo sweat.
393
00:36:09,887 --> 00:36:12,560
(WHOOPING)
394
00:36:31,367 --> 00:36:35,360
The nextjob is to carve
the Aco drum out of the log.
395
00:36:37,887 --> 00:36:41,721
The whole process takes two days
until the Aco is finally ready to go.
396
00:36:47,567 --> 00:36:51,958
Now all that's required is
taking it back into the village,
397
00:36:52,007 --> 00:36:54,077
no doubt with a fair bit of ceremony.
398
00:37:16,087 --> 00:37:18,760
The log must weigh at least a tonne,
399
00:37:18,807 --> 00:37:22,197
and it takes all of our
combined strength to carry it.
400
00:37:23,287 --> 00:37:26,085
So many people
over undulating ground.
401
00:37:27,887 --> 00:37:30,321
Sometimes it's really light,
402
00:37:30,367 --> 00:37:33,643
and other times, you feel like you're
carrying the whole thing yourself.
403
00:37:41,647 --> 00:37:44,605
I really wasn't expecting
the log to be this heavy.
404
00:37:44,647 --> 00:37:49,402
Those few moments
when you really took the weight yourself,
405
00:37:49,447 --> 00:37:51,005
it was extraordinary,
406
00:37:51,047 --> 00:37:55,120
back-breakingly heavy,
and we've got that hill to go up now.
407
00:38:23,767 --> 00:38:27,077
The women of the village come out
to welcome in the new Aco
408
00:38:27,127 --> 00:38:30,324
and to encourage the men in their efforts.
409
00:38:30,367 --> 00:38:32,244
I thought we were being wimps
410
00:38:32,287 --> 00:38:35,723
when we kept having to keep
putting it down, but now I realise
411
00:38:35,767 --> 00:38:38,839
that's all part of it,
412
00:38:38,887 --> 00:38:42,800
because we've even got
refreshment breaks on our route
413
00:38:42,847 --> 00:38:45,645
because they knew in advance
it was going to take us this long.
414
00:38:47,207 --> 00:38:51,803
Bizarrely, tickling plays a big part
in the Aco Ceremony.
415
00:38:51,847 --> 00:38:55,078
The customs and rituals of the Marubo
never fail to surprise,
416
00:38:55,127 --> 00:38:56,845
and according to this tradition,
417
00:38:56,887 --> 00:39:00,084
the women must tickle
their brothers-in-law
418
00:39:00,127 --> 00:39:02,163
as they take rests
between carrying the massive log.
419
00:39:18,727 --> 00:39:22,766
Last little leg into the longhouse,
420
00:39:22,807 --> 00:39:25,526
except, of course,
421
00:39:25,567 --> 00:39:27,637
we can't go through the near door.
422
00:39:27,687 --> 00:39:30,918
We've got to use the, er...
423
00:39:30,967 --> 00:39:32,446
Ooh-ay!
424
00:39:43,687 --> 00:39:46,599
The Aco is used primarily
as a communication tool
425
00:39:46,647 --> 00:39:49,286
to send messages
to neighbouring villages.
426
00:39:49,327 --> 00:39:52,000
They use it to announce
a death or a birth,
427
00:39:52,047 --> 00:39:54,515
a party, orjust a simple hunting trip.
428
00:40:00,607 --> 00:40:04,919
Once it's in place, the men start to
hammer out their rhythms on the Aco.
429
00:40:04,967 --> 00:40:09,404
I get the feeling once again
that we have a very long night ahead.
430
00:40:15,127 --> 00:40:17,687
There are many superstitions
surrounding the drum.
431
00:40:17,727 --> 00:40:20,036
For example, if your wife is pregnant,
432
00:40:20,087 --> 00:40:22,840
you can't play,
as it's considered bad luck.
433
00:40:30,287 --> 00:40:32,323
The Aco Ceremony wouldn't be complete
434
00:40:32,367 --> 00:40:35,803
without the usual
singing and dancing session,
435
00:40:35,847 --> 00:40:37,678
and all the young men and women
436
00:40:37,727 --> 00:40:40,719
take their partners
for another all-night party.
437
00:40:51,007 --> 00:40:53,202
It's nice to be popular,
438
00:40:53,247 --> 00:40:58,799
but I think I'll try and sit this one out
if I get a chance.
439
00:40:58,847 --> 00:41:02,681
As the night draws on,
the crew heads for bed.
440
00:41:02,727 --> 00:41:04,558
But as my hammock is now
in the longhouse,
441
00:41:04,607 --> 00:41:07,246
I keep dancing long into the night.
442
00:41:07,287 --> 00:41:09,721
Once again, Robson
and the other shamans start to sing
443
00:41:09,767 --> 00:41:13,521
their ancient songs,
but one of the young girls reminds me
444
00:41:13,567 --> 00:41:15,922
that I'm still in the 2 1st century.
445
00:41:16,727 --> 00:41:20,242
She handed me an earpiece,
446
00:41:20,287 --> 00:41:23,199
and in one ear
447
00:41:23,247 --> 00:41:28,401
I've got the village shaman,
448
00:41:28,447 --> 00:41:32,520
and in the other,
I've got Michael Jackson's Thriller.
449
00:41:32,567 --> 00:41:35,127
I can't quite get my head around it.
450
00:41:36,887 --> 00:41:38,525
Unreal.
451
00:41:41,367 --> 00:41:44,040
Get a load of that!
452
00:41:49,967 --> 00:41:51,958
Like many people here,
453
00:41:52,007 --> 00:41:56,159
the chief's 10-year-old son
is suffering from malaria.
454
00:41:56,207 --> 00:41:58,516
The chief sings to him
for hours on end
455
00:41:58,567 --> 00:42:00,762
to try and rid him of the disease.
456
00:42:11,567 --> 00:42:17,278
Malaria here is considered
as an introduced disease,
457
00:42:17,327 --> 00:42:19,522
an outsiders' disease,
458
00:42:19,567 --> 00:42:24,516
and here we have
a father's all-night vigil,
459
00:42:24,567 --> 00:42:26,762
using the power of song
460
00:42:26,807 --> 00:42:30,561
to try and save the life of his own son.
461
00:42:47,447 --> 00:42:51,360
We've been up all night
and I'm about leave.
462
00:42:51,407 --> 00:42:54,319
There's time forjust one last dip.
463
00:42:55,967 --> 00:42:59,596
Finally, after an exhausting five days,
464
00:42:59,647 --> 00:43:02,002
I say my goodbyes to Robson.
465
00:43:02,047 --> 00:43:07,679
Thank you so much
for looking after me during my short stay.
466
00:43:16,487 --> 00:43:17,966
Thank you.
467
00:43:20,727 --> 00:43:23,958
Whatever I think of
the Marubo's intensive methods
468
00:43:24,007 --> 00:43:27,886
of maintaining their identity,
it's clear that it's working,
469
00:43:27,927 --> 00:43:31,806
and their culture is very much alive -
and they're happy.
470
00:43:36,767 --> 00:43:40,885
I've now come to the very edge
of the indigenous reserve,
471
00:43:40,927 --> 00:43:43,919
where the forest is no longer
protected.
472
00:43:43,967 --> 00:43:48,995
In this frontier zone, logging
is big business and hundreds of
473
00:43:49,047 --> 00:43:54,599
chainsaw gangs are busy cutting down
the valuable hardwoods for export.
474
00:43:54,647 --> 00:43:56,877
I felt that I couldn't really
leave the area
475
00:43:56,927 --> 00:43:59,885
until I'd seen a little bit
of the other side of the coin,
476
00:43:59,927 --> 00:44:02,600
so I'm off to go and live with
some loggers
477
00:44:02,647 --> 00:44:05,957
to see what life is like
from their perspective.
478
00:44:08,607 --> 00:44:12,077
I'm slightly nervous
about the next few days.
479
00:44:12,127 --> 00:44:15,483
The people I'm going to see
are considered the bad guys,
480
00:44:15,527 --> 00:44:19,406
the men who are responsible for
bringing diseases into the region
481
00:44:19,447 --> 00:44:22,007
and whose job it is
to destroy the forest.
482
00:44:22,047 --> 00:44:23,924
(SAW WHIRRING)
483
00:44:23,967 --> 00:44:26,925
Oh, this must be the logging camp.
484
00:44:29,687 --> 00:44:31,245
Well hidden.
485
00:44:32,087 --> 00:44:34,681
Raymondo, hey!
486
00:44:40,487 --> 00:44:42,876
I'm at the right place, it seems.
487
00:44:42,927 --> 00:44:45,202
That's a relief.
488
00:44:47,727 --> 00:44:50,321
- Nice to meet you. Nice to meet you.
- Cheers.
489
00:44:50,367 --> 00:44:52,961
Wow, I like your camp. Thank you.
490
00:44:55,447 --> 00:44:57,324
Most of the loggers are out at work,
491
00:44:57,367 --> 00:44:59,562
but a few minutes later,
dinner arrives.
492
00:45:00,647 --> 00:45:03,559
Aqui, senor. Amigo... My God.
493
00:45:10,807 --> 00:45:12,445
This is Boto.
494
00:45:12,487 --> 00:45:14,796
He's just got back
from a hunting trip,
495
00:45:14,847 --> 00:45:17,600
in case you hadn't
worked it out for yourself.
496
00:45:17,647 --> 00:45:19,638
Much like the Matis and the Marubo,
497
00:45:19,687 --> 00:45:23,441
the loggers spend most of their lives
in the forest, and they, too,
498
00:45:23,487 --> 00:45:25,557
have developed an extensive knowledge
499
00:45:25,607 --> 00:45:27,598
of the animals and plants of the region.
500
00:45:46,887 --> 00:45:50,960
Throughout the afternoon,
the camp gradually fills up
501
00:45:51,007 --> 00:45:54,886
as more and more loggers appear
from the forest after a hard day's work.
502
00:46:23,687 --> 00:46:26,485
Homely feeling around
this camp, actually.
503
00:46:26,527 --> 00:46:29,917
I've been made really welcome
and there's just lots of laughter.
504
00:46:29,967 --> 00:46:31,605
These guys don't stop giggling.
505
00:46:31,647 --> 00:46:34,161
It's a really
friendly, friendly environment.
506
00:46:34,207 --> 00:46:39,486
But, Raymondo, my time here is
to allow you to tell the world
507
00:46:39,527 --> 00:46:41,802
what you think about yourjob
and what you are doing.
508
00:46:59,007 --> 00:47:03,000
Boto and Victor have asked me to
come and help them with some work.
509
00:47:03,047 --> 00:47:07,723
It's rainy season in the Amazon
and the water is steadily rising.
510
00:47:07,767 --> 00:47:10,725
This the best time
to move the cut logs down river,
511
00:47:10,767 --> 00:47:13,884
using the swollen stream
as a living conveyer belt.
512
00:47:33,007 --> 00:47:34,486
(BRUCE LAUGHS)
513
00:47:34,527 --> 00:47:38,918
This is not easy.
Not easy for me, anyway.
514
00:47:43,687 --> 00:47:45,678
Too late, too late, too late.
515
00:48:04,287 --> 00:48:05,606
OK.
516
00:48:11,367 --> 00:48:13,358
(LAUGHTER)
517
00:48:22,407 --> 00:48:25,877
If you try too much
to go on the ones in the middle
518
00:48:25,927 --> 00:48:28,202
and you step slightly off balance,
519
00:48:28,247 --> 00:48:31,239
they start spinning,
and it's really hard to right that,
520
00:48:31,287 --> 00:48:35,519
and unless you've got another one
to get onto, if you're like me,
521
00:48:35,567 --> 00:48:37,398
you're straight in the water.
522
00:48:39,687 --> 00:48:43,646
The idea is to free up all the logs
and keep them moving
523
00:48:43,687 --> 00:48:47,362
down to the main river so they can
eventually be rafted up,
524
00:48:47,407 --> 00:48:48,886
shipped out and sold.
525
00:48:52,127 --> 00:48:54,436
It's really hard work, this.
526
00:48:54,487 --> 00:48:58,321
You have to have a sure footing
the whole time and really good balance,
527
00:48:58,367 --> 00:49:02,280
but just an hour or so and...knackering.
528
00:49:05,487 --> 00:49:08,559
On the menu for tonight is
woolly monkey stew.
529
00:49:08,607 --> 00:49:13,601
Food always just tastes
so much nicer outdoors,
530
00:49:13,647 --> 00:49:16,241
and if you've done
a little bit of work,
531
00:49:16,287 --> 00:49:19,518
doesn't matter what it is,
it just always seems to taste good.
532
00:49:22,527 --> 00:49:24,882
What's your favourite food
here in the jungle?
533
00:49:39,767 --> 00:49:43,316
That's very kind, but you're
good teachers...and I enjoyed it.
534
00:49:43,367 --> 00:49:45,039
It was good fun.
535
00:49:45,087 --> 00:49:46,839
Bueno.
536
00:50:25,127 --> 00:50:30,485
Having just watched the experts in action,
they're now keen for me to have a go.
537
00:50:33,487 --> 00:50:38,800
OK. And is it OK to cut from there,
or must I cut from the end?
538
00:50:38,847 --> 00:50:41,645
- No.
- So like that.
539
00:50:41,687 --> 00:50:45,839
Then, will it...?
So, I just hold it strong here?
540
00:50:50,047 --> 00:50:51,400
OK.
541
00:50:55,527 --> 00:50:58,087
A real case of nerves, actually.
542
00:50:58,127 --> 00:51:04,362
Not only am I understandably
fearful of the chainsaw,
543
00:51:04,407 --> 00:51:07,717
a kind of healthy respect for it,
but also,
544
00:51:07,767 --> 00:51:14,843
just a tree falling -
I know how unpredictable it can be.
545
00:51:33,527 --> 00:51:35,324
(CHAINSAW CUTS OUT)
546
00:51:35,367 --> 00:51:38,803
But just as I'm about
to cut down my first tree,
547
00:51:38,847 --> 00:51:41,042
the chainsaw grinds to a halt.
548
00:51:41,087 --> 00:51:42,805
(ENGINE SPUTTERS)
549
00:51:42,847 --> 00:51:45,361
Can you get the spark plug out
and have a look?
550
00:51:50,967 --> 00:51:52,036
Kaput.
551
00:51:53,567 --> 00:51:56,525
They've been playing this for a while,
but it's not working,
552
00:51:56,567 --> 00:51:59,365
and this is their only chainsaw.
553
00:51:59,407 --> 00:52:05,004
So, this tree has had a lucky escape
and so, in many ways, have I.
554
00:52:05,047 --> 00:52:09,563
But even without a chainsaw,
the work must go on.
555
00:52:09,607 --> 00:52:11,916
One of the hardest jobs
is to get the logs from
556
00:52:11,967 --> 00:52:14,083
where they've been felled
down to the river.
557
00:52:14,127 --> 00:52:18,279
Using manpower alone, we have to clear
a wide path through the forest
558
00:52:18,327 --> 00:52:21,046
and wrestle the logs to the stream.
559
00:52:21,087 --> 00:52:25,638
The interesting thing about this,
this isn't big logging at all.
560
00:52:25,687 --> 00:52:28,804
This is not industrial clear felling.
561
00:52:28,847 --> 00:52:32,237
This is what they call
selective logging.
562
00:52:32,287 --> 00:52:35,438
But there's still a question
over how sustainable
563
00:52:35,487 --> 00:52:36,840
this form of logging is.
564
00:52:36,887 --> 00:52:38,957
For every one tree you cut down,
565
00:52:39,007 --> 00:52:42,397
you lose several more
trying to extract the logs.
566
00:52:42,447 --> 00:52:45,405
No matter how much I love these guys,
and I do -
567
00:52:45,447 --> 00:52:49,326
they are the nicest people that I've met
on my journey for a long time,
568
00:52:49,367 --> 00:52:51,756
I'm really enjoying their company -
569
00:52:51,807 --> 00:52:56,597
seeing this industry shows to me
really what's going on.
570
00:52:57,887 --> 00:52:59,081
Yah!
571
00:53:04,527 --> 00:53:05,642
Yah.
572
00:53:07,167 --> 00:53:08,680
Here we go.
573
00:53:35,607 --> 00:53:38,360
It's hard work, hard work.
574
00:53:38,407 --> 00:53:40,443
Just one little length,
575
00:53:40,487 --> 00:53:42,318
just a short distance.
576
00:53:45,487 --> 00:53:49,480
Victor, this log that we have
just rolled in here,
577
00:53:49,527 --> 00:53:53,315
how much will you sell that for in town?
How much is that worth?
578
00:54:03,727 --> 00:54:06,082
For all this effort and hard work,
579
00:54:06,127 --> 00:54:09,278
the men get just £ 12 a metre
for their timber -
580
00:54:09,327 --> 00:54:13,479
roughly £50 a log, which has to
be split between the whole crew.
581
00:54:45,287 --> 00:54:47,198
Despite everyone's efforts,
582
00:54:47,247 --> 00:54:51,126
the chainsaw is still refusing
to work this morning,
583
00:54:51,167 --> 00:54:54,159
so it's back on the river
to take advantage of the recent rain
584
00:54:54,207 --> 00:54:57,005
to keep moving
all the logs further downstream.
585
00:55:02,607 --> 00:55:07,442
Much harder today because we've got to get
all of these out somehow.
586
00:55:21,087 --> 00:55:23,920
Steer it, and watch
you don't get crushed from behind.
587
00:55:26,687 --> 00:55:28,166
Come on!
588
00:55:29,847 --> 00:55:34,284
Trying to turn that end
by this little lever, here.
589
00:55:54,207 --> 00:55:57,005
Once you've got the direction right,
590
00:55:57,047 --> 00:55:58,639
you can have a little rest.
591
00:56:05,727 --> 00:56:07,001
(SIGHS)
592
00:56:22,407 --> 00:56:25,046
Just as I'm about to leave,
something clicks.
593
00:56:25,087 --> 00:56:27,885
At last, I'm getting the hang of it.
594
00:56:30,887 --> 00:56:33,924
Now, this is the best bit,
cos finally,
595
00:56:33,967 --> 00:56:38,199
having brought all of these logs
from the forest into the creek,
596
00:56:38,247 --> 00:56:42,604
we're now in the river where it's
big enough that we can raft them up
597
00:56:42,647 --> 00:56:48,199
and from here, it's a bit more steady,
and it's plain sailing all the way down.
598
00:56:48,247 --> 00:56:50,556
But, sadly, it's time to go.
599
00:56:50,607 --> 00:56:55,442
I have to return to the main river
and continue my journey downstream.
600
00:56:55,487 --> 00:56:57,364
- OK.
- OK.
601
00:56:58,367 --> 00:57:00,358
Victor, muchos obrigado.
602
00:57:00,407 --> 00:57:02,159
Obrigado.
603
00:57:09,247 --> 00:57:13,035
You've been a good man,
and thank you for teaching me so much.
604
00:57:13,087 --> 00:57:16,762
- Obrigado. OK.
- Obrigado.
605
00:57:16,807 --> 00:57:18,798
OK, my friend.
606
00:57:21,367 --> 00:57:23,597
Hey, obrigado!
607
00:57:23,647 --> 00:57:24,921
(CHEERING)
608
00:57:33,807 --> 00:57:35,525
During my time in Javari,
609
00:57:35,567 --> 00:57:39,082
I've seen many perspectives
of life in the forest.
610
00:57:39,127 --> 00:57:42,676
The loggers are not the demons
I once thought, but ordinary men
611
00:57:42,727 --> 00:57:48,006
living out the only life they know
to satisfy our demand for hardwood.
612
00:57:48,047 --> 00:57:51,323
The Marubo are keeping
their culture alive
613
00:57:51,367 --> 00:57:53,756
through their regime of rituals,
614
00:57:53,807 --> 00:57:57,197
and the Matis are still struggling
for their very survival
615
00:57:57,247 --> 00:57:59,556
as they grapple with
the outside world.
616
00:57:59,607 --> 00:58:04,556
I hope the uncontacted tribes can
keep the chainsaws and diseases at bay
617
00:58:04,607 --> 00:58:10,284
and continue to live in isolation
as long as THEYchoose to.
618
00:58:10,327 --> 00:58:14,286
On the next leg of my journey, I travel
into the heart of the Brazilian Amazon,
619
00:58:14,327 --> 00:58:17,000
where I get to grips
with the natural world.
620
00:58:17,047 --> 00:58:18,526
This is fishing!
621
00:58:18,567 --> 00:58:23,482
And I find a ray of hope
in the struggle to save the Amazon.