1 00:00:08,727 --> 00:00:11,878 NEIL OLIVER: Norway, the longest coastline in Europe. 2 00:00:12,767 --> 00:00:16,203 Mighty fjords carved by great ice sheets. 3 00:00:16,767 --> 00:00:20,555 It's a landscape written into the blood of the British Isles, 4 00:00:20,887 --> 00:00:25,881 because we share a common heritage, brought across the sea by Viking boatmen. 5 00:00:27,767 --> 00:00:32,124 Now, it's British yachtsmen who love to explore Norway's coast. 6 00:00:32,647 --> 00:00:34,877 hey come year in and year out, 7 00:00:34,967 --> 00:00:38,880 but for us, this a rare chance to meet our northern neighbours. 8 00:00:40,087 --> 00:00:43,966 In Norway, I'm joined by my usual Coast companions. 9 00:00:45,687 --> 00:00:50,203 Mark Horton is in search of the craft that spurred the Vikings to our shores. 10 00:00:51,447 --> 00:00:54,120 And this is a method that can't have changed for a thousand years. 11 00:00:54,207 --> 00:00:55,435 BJORN: No. 12 00:00:55,527 --> 00:00:59,236 OLIVER: Alice Roberts meets the Norwegians keeping us warm in winter. 13 00:00:59,367 --> 00:01:01,835 So this is it. I can hear it. 14 00:01:02,007 --> 00:01:05,886 his is actuaIIy the gas you're hearing, gas going to UK. 15 00:01:06,407 --> 00:01:09,001 OLIVER: Nick Crane explores the British connections 16 00:01:09,087 --> 00:01:11,760 to the most beautiful fjord in Norway. 17 00:01:12,007 --> 00:01:15,886 As an amateur geographer, this is one of the most exciting days of my Iife. 18 00:01:17,367 --> 00:01:20,120 OLIVER: And I travel high into the Arctic Circle, 19 00:01:20,247 --> 00:01:24,320 where the Vikings launched themselves southwards towards Britain. 20 00:01:26,287 --> 00:01:29,723 Our story continues beyond our coast. 21 00:01:55,127 --> 00:01:59,996 This time we're travelling a huge distance, along the shore of an entire country. 22 00:02:00,367 --> 00:02:04,121 One that's long, thin and mostly coastline. 23 00:02:11,447 --> 00:02:14,917 Norway's coast is just so much bigger than you imagine. 24 00:02:16,527 --> 00:02:20,918 If you followed all the ins and outs of every bay and majestic fjord, 25 00:02:21,007 --> 00:02:26,365 it's a trip of over 13,000 miles. That's over halfway around the world. 26 00:02:29,447 --> 00:02:34,760 These magnificent fjords are overlooked by huge mountains with vertiginous cliffs. 27 00:02:37,647 --> 00:02:41,879 And at its narrowest, Norway is just three and a half miles wide. 28 00:02:45,367 --> 00:02:47,358 To cope with their challenging coastline, 29 00:02:47,447 --> 00:02:50,439 the Norwegians have been constantly inventive, 30 00:02:50,927 --> 00:02:53,157 building roads across the sea, 31 00:02:54,247 --> 00:02:56,715 making their homes on tiny islands, 32 00:02:57,727 --> 00:03:01,959 and harvesting their natural resources for food and energy. 33 00:03:04,247 --> 00:03:08,240 On our journey, we want to discover what tips we in Britain can get 34 00:03:08,327 --> 00:03:10,363 about living on our coast, 35 00:03:10,927 --> 00:03:14,283 and to find out how our two countries have a shared history, 36 00:03:14,367 --> 00:03:18,599 reaching out in friendship and in wartime across the North Sea. 37 00:03:22,447 --> 00:03:26,838 We're travelling up to the Lofoten Islands, deep into the Arctic Circle. 38 00:03:27,007 --> 00:03:30,795 On the way, we'll pop up to polar-bear country, Svalbard. 39 00:03:31,567 --> 00:03:34,718 But our starting point is Lillesand, in the south. 40 00:03:39,127 --> 00:03:43,484 This quiet southern coastline is popular with Norwegians for summer holidays. 41 00:03:43,567 --> 00:03:46,957 And it's also a desirable destination for yachting folk, 42 00:03:47,047 --> 00:03:49,845 who travel across the seas from all around Europe 43 00:03:49,927 --> 00:03:52,964 for the thrill of sailing on Norway's Riviera. 44 00:03:58,007 --> 00:04:00,396 One of these yachtsmen is a Brit. 45 00:04:00,487 --> 00:04:03,285 Peter Walker left Liverpool to live here. 46 00:04:03,527 --> 00:04:06,519 But the coastline wasn't the only attraction. 47 00:04:07,967 --> 00:04:12,324 I met a beautifuI Norwegian Iady in EngIand. She was working as an au pair. 48 00:04:12,407 --> 00:04:13,476 Right. 49 00:04:13,567 --> 00:04:15,603 WALKER: Since then, we've got three boys 50 00:04:15,687 --> 00:04:19,965 and here I've been Iiving the most beautifuI Iife I can ever think of. 51 00:04:20,487 --> 00:04:24,799 Is there anything about the IifestyIe that you wouId import if you couId? 52 00:04:24,887 --> 00:04:29,756 Yeah, I wouId import a typicaI EngIish pub and a fish-and-chip shop. 53 00:04:29,847 --> 00:04:31,280 -Dream? -Yeah. 54 00:04:34,887 --> 00:04:37,321 OLIVER: Peter and his family made their home in Lillesand, 55 00:04:37,447 --> 00:04:41,520 a small town of 9,000 people and neat wooden houses. 56 00:04:41,847 --> 00:04:44,361 The lifestyle revolves around boats, 57 00:04:44,887 --> 00:04:47,765 but navigating this rocky shore isn't easy. 58 00:04:50,407 --> 00:04:54,286 here's hundreds and hundreds of underwater skerries. 59 00:04:55,047 --> 00:04:57,959 It's a smaII rock sticking out from the sea bed. 60 00:04:58,047 --> 00:05:02,598 If they're not marked and you don't know about it, they can sink your boat. 61 00:05:03,487 --> 00:05:07,639 OLIVER: Much of this curious coastline is hidden just under the sea. 62 00:05:09,287 --> 00:05:14,202 It's a mysterious, treacherous landscape, which keeps sailors on their toes, 63 00:05:14,287 --> 00:05:18,166 poking its head above water, creating countless tiny islands. 64 00:05:20,047 --> 00:05:25,041 The only way to appreciate the beauty of what lies beneath is to get seriously wet. 65 00:05:27,487 --> 00:05:30,160 OLIVER: Are you sure about jumping into the water with Iead weights on? 66 00:05:30,247 --> 00:05:32,807 What wiII I do if I jump in and I just go straight to the bottom? 67 00:05:32,887 --> 00:05:37,244 -hat shouId be tight so it doesn't sIip down. -OLIVER: Everything about this is tight. 68 00:05:41,087 --> 00:05:43,362 WALKER: Put your head down now. 69 00:05:47,407 --> 00:05:50,399 OLIVER: Snorkelling here is a real eye-opener. 70 00:05:52,287 --> 00:05:54,926 Above the surface it looks so black. 71 00:05:55,007 --> 00:05:58,044 Down here it's awash with colour and life. 72 00:06:00,407 --> 00:06:04,559 As you explore, you start to get a sense of a truly coastal country. 73 00:06:06,007 --> 00:06:08,965 No wonder Peter and his family love it here. 74 00:06:18,727 --> 00:06:22,322 Norway's southern Riviera is a stunning surprise. 75 00:06:22,647 --> 00:06:26,879 I'd expected fjords and ice, not a myriad of micro-islands. 76 00:06:30,567 --> 00:06:35,004 But as we head northwards, the landscape starts to rear up out of the sea. 77 00:06:35,567 --> 00:06:39,526 It's more mountainous, with deep fjords carving through the rock. 78 00:06:39,887 --> 00:06:42,321 This is like Scotland on steroids. 79 00:06:45,807 --> 00:06:48,037 These inlets snake far inland, 80 00:06:48,127 --> 00:06:51,437 taking the coast deep into the heart of the country. 81 00:06:52,007 --> 00:06:53,918 Waterways like this were a challenge 82 00:06:54,007 --> 00:06:57,317 that spurred the early boat builders onto greatness. 83 00:06:58,487 --> 00:07:03,607 1200 years ago, after the Vikings had mastered their own craggy shores, 84 00:07:03,687 --> 00:07:07,396 they turned their sights south to Britain and beyond. 85 00:07:14,727 --> 00:07:16,718 Deep down the Hardangerfjord, 86 00:07:16,807 --> 00:07:20,322 Mark Horton is in search of their boat-building secrets. 87 00:07:23,087 --> 00:07:25,885 I can't beIieve I'm here in Norway 88 00:07:25,967 --> 00:07:30,438 and about to find out how the Vikings made their most awesome weapon, 89 00:07:30,687 --> 00:07:32,439 the Viking Iongship. 90 00:07:37,687 --> 00:07:42,636 HORON: Boats are in the blood of the Norsemen, both ancient and modern. 91 00:07:44,167 --> 00:07:46,886 Maritime historian, Atle Thowsen, 92 00:07:47,367 --> 00:07:50,404 knows the value the Vikings placed on their vessels. 93 00:07:53,327 --> 00:07:58,003 he boat was important to get transport, to get from one pIace to another, 94 00:07:58,087 --> 00:08:00,681 to get their food and so on. 95 00:08:00,767 --> 00:08:03,235 It was their way of communicating. 96 00:08:05,047 --> 00:08:09,325 HOWSEN: This was the way to survive in, for instance, Norway. 97 00:08:10,007 --> 00:08:14,717 hey got into the deep fjords, up the rivers and so on, 98 00:08:14,807 --> 00:08:18,880 to Paris or aImost everywhere you couId find the Vikings. 99 00:08:23,527 --> 00:08:28,078 HORON: These master mariners sailed west to Newfoundland in North America. 100 00:08:29,247 --> 00:08:32,398 Looking east, they navigated down the river Volga, 101 00:08:32,807 --> 00:08:36,720 into the Caspian Sea, to trade with the Islamic world. 102 00:08:39,127 --> 00:08:42,483 And, of course, they came south to the British Isles, 103 00:08:42,567 --> 00:08:46,526 using our waterways to penetrate deep inland. 104 00:08:48,647 --> 00:08:53,675 So, what kind of boats could cope riding raging seas 105 00:08:54,247 --> 00:08:56,761 and powering through placid rivers? 106 00:09:01,287 --> 00:09:04,279 The Vikings have vanished into legend, 107 00:09:04,607 --> 00:09:07,997 but their boat design has stood the test of time. 108 00:09:10,127 --> 00:09:13,802 These waterways were tamed working with wood 109 00:09:13,887 --> 00:09:16,606 and these skills have survived. 110 00:09:16,687 --> 00:09:19,485 Tucked away down the Hardangerfjord, 111 00:09:19,767 --> 00:09:24,443 there's a yard that's changed little since the days of the Viking boatmen. 112 00:09:25,407 --> 00:09:26,920 -HORON: Hi. -Hi. 113 00:09:27,007 --> 00:09:28,838 -Are you Bjorn? -Yeah, I'm Bjorn. 114 00:09:28,927 --> 00:09:30,280 -Hi. -Hi. Nice to meet you. 115 00:09:30,367 --> 00:09:32,437 his is the most wonderfuI boat yard. 116 00:09:32,527 --> 00:09:35,837 Yeah, you think? It's a nice pIace, very nice pIace. 117 00:09:36,447 --> 00:09:39,325 HORON: here's that overpowering smeII of the pine resin. 118 00:09:39,407 --> 00:09:41,045 (HORON CHUCKLES) 119 00:09:41,367 --> 00:09:46,395 BJORN: his is the smaII boat workshop and you'II see two boats in here now. 120 00:09:46,487 --> 00:09:51,959 WeII, parts of a boat, just started a week ago. And this is a boat we're just about to finish. 121 00:09:52,047 --> 00:09:54,641 And you can see, sort of, every stage of their construction. 122 00:09:54,727 --> 00:09:59,323 Yeah, weII, it's a very nice thing to buiId two boats at the same time. 123 00:09:59,407 --> 00:10:01,079 HORON: So, here we are. 124 00:10:01,167 --> 00:10:04,955 The most important thing in a Viking boat was its keel, 125 00:10:05,447 --> 00:10:07,677 the backbone they built upon. 126 00:10:10,247 --> 00:10:11,999 HORON: he keeI goes down quite some distance. 127 00:10:12,087 --> 00:10:13,486 BJORN: Yes, it does. 128 00:10:13,567 --> 00:10:16,161 So the next stage is presumabIy then you have to buiId up the sides. 129 00:10:16,247 --> 00:10:17,396 Yeah, that's true. 130 00:10:17,487 --> 00:10:20,923 Most wooden boats normally start with a frame, 131 00:10:21,047 --> 00:10:23,242 then the planks are fixed on. 132 00:10:23,567 --> 00:10:25,876 But these boats are different. 133 00:10:26,367 --> 00:10:29,518 The planks are built up one at a time, 134 00:10:29,607 --> 00:10:34,237 each overlapping the last, placed at precise angles. 135 00:10:34,927 --> 00:10:39,637 his wiII be the Iine pIan that we use for buiIding this boat. 136 00:10:39,727 --> 00:10:40,842 -Oh, it's that one? -Yes. 137 00:10:40,927 --> 00:10:43,077 Not a, sort of, wonderfuI architect ship drawing. 138 00:10:43,167 --> 00:10:46,204 No, it's not. his is not something you get from a computer. 139 00:10:46,287 --> 00:10:48,482 See, these are the dimensions. 140 00:10:49,887 --> 00:10:53,482 And the numbers wouId be the degrees that the pIank has. 141 00:10:53,567 --> 00:10:56,001 -HORON: AII right. -And wouId be the width of the pIank. 142 00:10:56,087 --> 00:10:59,636 -And how do you measure that angIe? -We use this one. 143 00:11:00,967 --> 00:11:05,040 -that's just a simpIe use of the gravity. -AII right. 144 00:11:05,127 --> 00:11:07,846 -So there you've got the angIe of the pIank. -Yeah.that's true. 145 00:11:07,927 --> 00:11:10,680 -At, say 27 degrees, just there. -Yeah. 146 00:11:10,847 --> 00:11:14,237 And here it is, then, at 27, which is there. 147 00:11:14,887 --> 00:11:17,276 So you just... here it is there. 148 00:11:17,927 --> 00:11:20,361 that's it. that Iooks about right. 149 00:11:22,207 --> 00:11:25,643 HORON: The Vikings built all their vessels this way. 150 00:11:25,727 --> 00:11:29,402 Their long ships, their fishing boats, everything. 151 00:11:30,127 --> 00:11:31,640 BJORN: his is the new one. 152 00:11:31,727 --> 00:11:34,195 HORON: Once the planks are in place, 153 00:11:34,287 --> 00:11:39,042 they must be secured with special nails, which are a bit like rivets. 154 00:11:39,607 --> 00:11:41,757 HORON: So that goes Iike that, doesn't it? 155 00:11:41,847 --> 00:11:45,123 This type of construction is called clinker. 156 00:11:45,687 --> 00:11:50,636 Bjorn is trusting me to put the last nail in his new clinker boat. 157 00:11:52,367 --> 00:11:56,042 HORON: I hope I'm not breaking your boat. BJORN: No, no. 158 00:11:56,887 --> 00:11:58,161 BJORN: WeII... 159 00:11:58,247 --> 00:12:00,442 (LAUGHS) As good as it gets. 160 00:12:00,807 --> 00:12:02,957 BJORN: So what you're doing now is cIinking. 161 00:12:03,047 --> 00:12:07,040 -In Norwegian what we say cIinking. -that's the origin of the word cIinker boat? 162 00:12:07,127 --> 00:12:08,799 BJORN: Yes, it is. 163 00:12:09,087 --> 00:12:11,157 HORON: So... BJORN: So... 164 00:12:15,527 --> 00:12:19,156 that's very good. With the sound, you'II hear that the hammer wouId answer. 165 00:12:19,247 --> 00:12:20,566 HORON: Right. 166 00:12:20,647 --> 00:12:24,276 An experienced boat buiIder wiII say that that's a good sound. 167 00:12:26,047 --> 00:12:27,958 HORON: The construction of these boats 168 00:12:28,047 --> 00:12:30,800 shows why they were so successful for the Vikings. 169 00:12:32,127 --> 00:12:36,325 Because the overlapping boards aren't tied to an internal frame, 170 00:12:36,927 --> 00:12:42,160 the boats are flexible, able to bend enough to ride rough seas, 171 00:12:42,687 --> 00:12:46,316 and their flattish bottoms can cope with shallow rivers. 172 00:12:53,047 --> 00:12:57,438 Ultimately, though, they were replaced by a different style of vessel, 173 00:12:57,527 --> 00:13:01,679 where the planks fixed separately onto the ship's skeleton. 174 00:13:02,207 --> 00:13:05,199 That way, you could build bigger boats. 175 00:13:06,847 --> 00:13:08,280 But for me, 176 00:13:08,367 --> 00:13:13,316 these hills will always be alive with the sound of clinking. 177 00:13:29,887 --> 00:13:33,243 OLIVER: In open water, very big boats hold sway now. 178 00:13:33,567 --> 00:13:36,684 As the age of the Viking faded into the sea mist, 179 00:13:36,767 --> 00:13:41,602 their renegade trade was gradually replaced by more everyday commerce. 180 00:13:45,087 --> 00:13:46,202 On our journey north, 181 00:13:46,287 --> 00:13:50,997 there's a city which prospered as part of an exclusive trading club, Bergen. 182 00:13:53,407 --> 00:13:57,116 Seven hundred years ago, this was the commercial capital of Norway, 183 00:13:57,527 --> 00:13:59,916 with links to Britain and beyond. 184 00:14:03,167 --> 00:14:06,557 Bergen was the northern outpost of the Hanseatic League, 185 00:14:06,647 --> 00:14:09,115 a sort of early common market. 186 00:14:10,007 --> 00:14:12,475 At its height, this league of gentlemen traders 187 00:14:12,567 --> 00:14:15,081 operated out of ports around Europe, 188 00:14:15,167 --> 00:14:20,878 including Hull, Norwich, Bristol and King's Lynn, as well as Bergen. 189 00:14:24,527 --> 00:14:26,518 As Iong ago as the 1 4th century, 190 00:14:26,607 --> 00:14:28,882 it was one of the key cities in Western Europe. 191 00:14:28,967 --> 00:14:32,755 And that harbour over there wouId have been teeming with saiIing ships 192 00:14:32,847 --> 00:14:36,601 ready to make their way back and forth across the North Sea. 193 00:14:41,367 --> 00:14:44,996 Today, trade is still key to our relationship with Norway. 194 00:14:45,087 --> 00:14:49,922 And, in Britain, we benefit from one of their largest exports, fish. 195 00:14:51,087 --> 00:14:54,523 Look at that. Now that's fresh caught. 196 00:14:56,687 --> 00:14:58,484 -OLIVER: Is that whaIe? -hat's whaIe, yes. 197 00:14:58,567 --> 00:14:59,920 -What sort of whaIe? -Minke whaIe. 198 00:15:00,007 --> 00:15:03,204 Minke whaIe. How big is that when it's fuII grown? 199 00:15:03,847 --> 00:15:05,917 -en tonnes, maybe. -en tonnes. 200 00:15:08,527 --> 00:15:11,758 What a monster. It's the back Iegs of a king crab. 201 00:15:12,247 --> 00:15:14,966 Now that wouId give you a fright if you saw it in a rock pooI. 202 00:15:15,047 --> 00:15:18,801 I'd dread to think how you'd go about catching one of these. 203 00:15:21,487 --> 00:15:24,206 These crabs have come from the very top of Norway, 204 00:15:24,287 --> 00:15:27,757 right on the Russian border, near the town of Kirkines. 205 00:15:29,487 --> 00:15:32,285 The king crabs are newcomers to Kirkines. 206 00:15:32,447 --> 00:15:37,316 They've made their way there from Russia and they're moving gradually southwards. 207 00:15:37,727 --> 00:15:41,322 They've already been spotted halfway down Norway's coast. 208 00:15:41,647 --> 00:15:44,798 Eventually, they might even reach British shores. 209 00:15:49,167 --> 00:15:53,922 One man who grapples daily with king crabs is diver Lars Petter Oie. 210 00:16:01,247 --> 00:16:05,638 OIE: The king crab were introduced to the Bering Sea by the Russians in 1961. 211 00:16:07,127 --> 00:16:12,281 The first crab we found here was in 1976, and even since then it has been increasing. 212 00:16:13,687 --> 00:16:16,997 Maybe one day you'II have the crabs even in Britain. 213 00:16:21,007 --> 00:16:24,477 It's always a challenge to be 100% sure where to find the crabs. 214 00:16:24,567 --> 00:16:27,525 But we have so much experience, 215 00:16:27,607 --> 00:16:31,236 so we know approximately where to find crabs. 216 00:16:34,007 --> 00:16:37,204 The biggest we caught here was one metre and 70. 217 00:16:37,287 --> 00:16:41,200 It's exactIy my own height, actuaIIy. And it was about eight kiIos. 218 00:16:41,287 --> 00:16:45,200 But commerciaIIy it has been caught crabs up to 15 or 16 kiIos. 219 00:16:48,887 --> 00:16:52,516 A crab Iike this, this is Iike four, four and a haIf kiIo. 220 00:16:53,087 --> 00:16:55,555 You wouIdn't afford to eat it in London. 221 00:16:55,647 --> 00:16:59,162 his is, this is a Iot of money, actuaIIy. 222 00:17:09,247 --> 00:17:14,162 So, here's meat aII the way from here and aII the way here. 223 00:17:16,607 --> 00:17:18,837 As you see, it's very tender. 224 00:17:19,767 --> 00:17:22,600 And it's even sweeter than normaI Iobster. 225 00:17:23,767 --> 00:17:27,919 his is the way you shouId eat it. It's straight from the sea. 226 00:17:28,127 --> 00:17:30,038 (OASING IN NORWEGIAN) 227 00:17:39,207 --> 00:17:41,277 OLIVER: On my own journey to the north of Norway, 228 00:17:41,367 --> 00:17:44,962 I'm coming to a spot that's a real emotional draw for me, 229 00:17:45,247 --> 00:17:47,442 a little town called Televag. 230 00:17:50,167 --> 00:17:53,364 It's a picture-perfect postcard type of place now, 231 00:17:53,447 --> 00:17:55,119 but in World War II, 232 00:17:55,207 --> 00:18:00,440 Televag was transformed to become a terrible example of Nazi oppression. 233 00:18:04,807 --> 00:18:08,516 I've got this photograph that was taken in 1945 234 00:18:08,687 --> 00:18:11,440 and I'm trying to position myseIf so that I'm right where 235 00:18:11,527 --> 00:18:14,485 the photographer stood when he took the snap. 236 00:18:14,607 --> 00:18:18,600 And it's important to remind yourseIf what this pIace Iooked Iike at the end of the war, 237 00:18:18,687 --> 00:18:21,804 because the town was compIeteIy erased. 238 00:18:26,447 --> 00:18:28,403 The story of Televag's destruction 239 00:18:28,487 --> 00:18:32,116 begins with the German occupation of Norway in 1940. 240 00:18:34,007 --> 00:18:36,202 Before long, the country's resistance fighters 241 00:18:36,287 --> 00:18:39,996 looked across the sea to their British neighbours for help. 242 00:18:42,607 --> 00:18:46,566 Fishing boats started to ferry refugees and resistance agents 243 00:18:46,647 --> 00:18:49,320 to and fro between Norway and Shetland. 244 00:18:50,167 --> 00:18:53,876 This secret boat service became known as the Shetland bus. 245 00:18:54,607 --> 00:18:59,761 I've seen one side of the story already on Coast when I visited Scalloway on Shetland. 246 00:19:02,807 --> 00:19:05,367 OLIVER: 23, 28, 21, 21 ... 247 00:19:05,447 --> 00:19:08,200 -Just wee boys. -Just boys. 248 00:19:09,647 --> 00:19:12,923 OLIVER: Many brave young men died running the Shetland bus. 249 00:19:13,007 --> 00:19:15,441 And here in Norway, an entire town 250 00:19:15,527 --> 00:19:19,281 paid a terrible price for their part in resisting the Nazis. 251 00:19:20,447 --> 00:19:22,881 Barbara, can you show me a photograph of Arna? 252 00:19:22,967 --> 00:19:25,197 -Show me what he Iooked Iike. -Yes. 253 00:19:25,287 --> 00:19:27,323 OLIVER: Shetland lass, Barbara Melkevik, 254 00:19:27,407 --> 00:19:30,205 married a Norwegian member of the Shetland Bus. 255 00:19:30,287 --> 00:19:33,165 He was called Arna and was from Televag. 256 00:19:34,807 --> 00:19:37,321 I met him when he first came to ScaIIoway. 257 00:19:37,407 --> 00:19:41,639 He was going to work on the fishing boats, 258 00:19:41,847 --> 00:19:45,635 which they were to use on these secret missions to Norway, 259 00:19:45,967 --> 00:19:49,562 and I was not to ask any questions. 260 00:19:50,247 --> 00:19:53,557 -If I did, I couIdn't get any answers. -OLIVER: Right. 261 00:19:58,167 --> 00:20:01,125 On one fateful night, Barbara's husband, Arna, 262 00:20:01,207 --> 00:20:05,086 set sail on from Shetland with a secret cargo on board. 263 00:20:08,767 --> 00:20:12,840 These were dangerous waters. As well as rough seas and strong winds, 264 00:20:12,927 --> 00:20:15,077 the fishermen had to avoid the constant threat 265 00:20:15,167 --> 00:20:18,364 of patrolling German aircraft and U-Boats. 266 00:20:20,167 --> 00:20:25,366 But eventually Arna's boat managed to reach a small creek just outside Televag. 267 00:20:28,287 --> 00:20:32,803 It was right here, in the dead of night, on ApriI 21, 1942, 268 00:20:32,887 --> 00:20:35,242 that Barbara's husband, Arna, arrived 269 00:20:35,327 --> 00:20:38,080 to deIiver two agents of the Norwegian resistance. 270 00:20:38,167 --> 00:20:42,683 heir names were EmiI Gustaf HvaaI and Arne Vaerum. 271 00:20:50,727 --> 00:20:54,356 The two agents were taken to a house in the village of Televag. 272 00:20:54,447 --> 00:20:59,441 They managed to hide for a week, until their cover was blown and the secret was out. 273 00:20:59,927 --> 00:21:03,078 The Nazis stormed the house and, in the ensuing shoot-out, 274 00:21:03,167 --> 00:21:07,001 two SS officers and one of the Norwegian agents were killed. 275 00:21:10,767 --> 00:21:15,887 In a furious display of vengeance, the Nazis systematically destroyed Televag. 276 00:21:16,127 --> 00:21:20,200 Families were split up. Some were sent to concentration camps. 277 00:21:23,047 --> 00:21:25,845 It was the worst act of reprisal in Norway. 278 00:21:28,447 --> 00:21:32,725 Long after the war, Barbara's husband, Arna, struggled to come to terms 279 00:21:32,807 --> 00:21:36,766 with the devastation he'd unwittingly brought upon his hometown. 280 00:21:39,807 --> 00:21:43,197 MELKEVIK: Just came bit by bit, now and again. 281 00:21:43,287 --> 00:21:46,438 He was so pIeased that it was aII over, 282 00:21:47,287 --> 00:21:52,725 that he couId get back to a normaI Iife, that he just didn't Iike taIking about it. 283 00:21:58,967 --> 00:22:01,527 OLIVER: Televag wasn't wiped out by the Nazis, 284 00:22:01,607 --> 00:22:04,883 because those who survived returned to rebuild it. 285 00:22:05,967 --> 00:22:08,959 Their new town now stands as a testament 286 00:22:09,047 --> 00:22:11,800 to the resilience of Norwegian and British resistance 287 00:22:11,887 --> 00:22:14,685 to the tyranny that stalked these shores. 288 00:22:24,207 --> 00:22:28,485 Our links across the sea aren't just woven into stories of war. 289 00:22:28,767 --> 00:22:31,725 They're also etched in the landscape itself. 290 00:22:32,487 --> 00:22:36,799 Further north along the coastline, we're in the heart of fjord country. 291 00:22:37,247 --> 00:22:40,478 Wide openings reveal the start of giant inlets, 292 00:22:40,567 --> 00:22:43,718 some of which snake over 100 miles inland. 293 00:22:48,527 --> 00:22:51,837 Nick Crane has come to one of Norway's most famous fjords 294 00:22:51,927 --> 00:22:54,919 to explore a distant connection to our shore. 295 00:23:01,967 --> 00:23:04,527 WouId you Iook at this? 296 00:23:06,207 --> 00:23:10,723 Geirangerfjord, what a view, 297 00:23:11,527 --> 00:23:13,165 and what a scaIe! 298 00:23:16,167 --> 00:23:21,764 This spectacular fjord is nearly nine miles long and over 700 feet deep. 299 00:23:23,687 --> 00:23:27,999 It looks extraordinary, very different to our terrain at home. 300 00:23:28,087 --> 00:23:31,443 But there are more similarities than you might think. 301 00:23:32,887 --> 00:23:36,800 It's aImost impossibIe to imagine that the mighty forces of nature 302 00:23:36,887 --> 00:23:41,563 that gouged out this Iandscape are the ones that aIso shaped ScotIand. 303 00:23:45,127 --> 00:23:48,802 Our connection to these rocks goes back millions of years. 304 00:23:49,447 --> 00:23:52,598 Here in Norway, we can still see how Britain was built. 305 00:23:52,687 --> 00:23:56,123 But to do that, I need to go high above the landscape. 306 00:23:58,127 --> 00:23:59,685 (RADIO CHAER) 307 00:24:02,407 --> 00:24:06,685 It's an epic story, with action that really is ground-breaking. 308 00:24:11,087 --> 00:24:16,480 We're heading inIand to the upIands to find out how fjords were made. 309 00:24:16,567 --> 00:24:21,766 See how the forces that shaped Norway and ScotIand are stiII at work. 310 00:24:25,167 --> 00:24:26,725 (RADIO CHAER) 311 00:24:27,567 --> 00:24:32,118 As an amateur geographer, this is one of the most exciting days of my Iife. 312 00:24:33,607 --> 00:24:38,237 Ice, the irresistible force that can cut through rock. 313 00:24:39,447 --> 00:24:42,359 What an amazing sight! hat's the BriksdaI ice faII. 314 00:24:42,447 --> 00:24:45,041 It's Iike a frozen waterfaII. 315 00:24:45,647 --> 00:24:49,845 his wouId have been a common sight in ScotIand back in the Ice Age. 316 00:24:50,487 --> 00:24:53,877 What we're Iooking at is an aImost verticaI gIacier. 317 00:24:54,727 --> 00:24:58,037 It's carving a U-shaped rocky trench 318 00:24:58,127 --> 00:25:02,882 out of the sides of the vaIIey and carrying with it Iots of rock debris, 319 00:25:02,967 --> 00:25:07,518 which it wiII drop further down the vaIIey. It's an incredibIe sight. 320 00:25:07,607 --> 00:25:12,044 his is gIaciation right in front of your eyes. It's happening right now. 321 00:25:20,887 --> 00:25:24,357 The Norwegian and British coasts are connected by water now, 322 00:25:24,447 --> 00:25:28,406 but go back 20,000 years and the link was ice. 323 00:25:28,487 --> 00:25:34,437 A giant sheet of ice that stretched from Norway to Britain as far south as Norfolk. 324 00:25:38,047 --> 00:25:42,006 Our landscape still bears the scars of that moving crust of ice. 325 00:25:42,927 --> 00:25:48,001 It's eroded all but our toughest rock, sculpting the peaks of Scotland 326 00:25:48,087 --> 00:25:51,762 and gouging the deeply carved valleys of the Lake District. 327 00:25:55,927 --> 00:25:58,282 And what's so great about coming to Norway 328 00:25:58,367 --> 00:26:03,725 is you can see what glaciers in Britain might have looked like 20,000 years ago, 329 00:26:03,807 --> 00:26:06,480 before our ice melted completely. 330 00:26:13,487 --> 00:26:16,524 oday this monumentaI Iandscape 331 00:26:16,607 --> 00:26:20,043 seems to be at compIete peace. 332 00:26:20,887 --> 00:26:23,526 here's a timeIess stiIIness about it, 333 00:26:24,327 --> 00:26:27,478 but bits of it are far from stiII. 334 00:26:32,247 --> 00:26:34,397 As the glaciers retreat inland, 335 00:26:34,487 --> 00:26:39,277 the steep cliffs either side of the fjords no longer have anything to prop them up. 336 00:26:40,047 --> 00:26:46,395 And, every so often, great hunks of land just fall away down into the fjords. 337 00:26:47,647 --> 00:26:50,320 The rich vegetation covering the cliff sides 338 00:26:50,407 --> 00:26:54,559 masks long, potentially lethal fractures in the rock. 339 00:26:59,807 --> 00:27:02,116 Just Iook at this. 340 00:27:02,287 --> 00:27:06,075 his chasm has been formed because the mountainside is spIitting. 341 00:27:06,167 --> 00:27:09,557 Parts of it are moving at 20 centimetres a year. 342 00:27:10,047 --> 00:27:11,958 At some point in the next 300 years, 343 00:27:12,047 --> 00:27:15,164 aII this is going to thunder down into the fjord. 344 00:27:22,007 --> 00:27:25,602 Up here on the mountainside, I'm meeting Kjell Jogerud, 345 00:27:25,887 --> 00:27:29,197 whose job it is to monitor the impending landslide. 346 00:27:31,567 --> 00:27:33,080 CRANE: HeIIo, KjeII. JOGERUD: HeIIo. 347 00:27:33,167 --> 00:27:36,204 -Very good to meet you. -Nice to meet you, too. 348 00:27:36,447 --> 00:27:39,484 Can you teII me what is happening to this mountain? 349 00:27:40,607 --> 00:27:46,398 JOGERUD: Yes, as you see beneath us here, more or Iess everything you see is moving. 350 00:27:46,487 --> 00:27:49,206 And when these masses hits the fjord, 351 00:27:49,287 --> 00:27:52,324 they wiII transport them to the bottom, across the fjord, 352 00:27:52,407 --> 00:27:54,796 and move up on the shoreIine up on the other side. 353 00:27:54,887 --> 00:27:57,845 You're saying that this mountain wiII reach the far side of the fjord? 354 00:27:57,927 --> 00:27:59,599 Yes, yes. 355 00:27:59,687 --> 00:28:03,441 And they wiII set off deposits across aII the fjord 356 00:28:03,527 --> 00:28:06,405 and create quite a Iarge tsunami. 357 00:28:06,487 --> 00:28:08,284 -A tidaI wave? -Yes, yes. 358 00:28:10,527 --> 00:28:12,563 CRANE: As the land slides into the fjord, 359 00:28:12,647 --> 00:28:15,798 the tsunami will funnel down the narrow channels. 360 00:28:16,087 --> 00:28:19,636 4,000 people live in its devastating path. 361 00:28:20,487 --> 00:28:24,116 It's not a question of if the tsunami will happen, but when. 362 00:28:24,207 --> 00:28:28,325 So the Norwegians have rigged this hillside with 300 sensors. 363 00:28:29,207 --> 00:28:30,959 When the land starts to move, 364 00:28:31,047 --> 00:28:35,837 they hope to have up to 48 hours' notice to warn everyone in the area 365 00:28:35,927 --> 00:28:39,840 by text message, automatic phone calls and sirens. 366 00:28:42,167 --> 00:28:46,285 he tidaI wave wiII come careering down Storfjord, straight ahead here, 367 00:28:46,367 --> 00:28:49,677 wiII go over the top of this ferry and hit HeIIesyIt behind us. 368 00:28:49,767 --> 00:28:51,723 Now the wave is aIways going to search for open water, 369 00:28:51,807 --> 00:28:55,720 so some of it wiII shoot up this side fjord, Geirangerfjord, 370 00:28:55,807 --> 00:28:59,004 and at the end there, there's nowhere eIse for it to go. 371 00:29:03,207 --> 00:29:06,995 At the very end of this fjord, there's a little town called Geiranger, 372 00:29:07,087 --> 00:29:09,442 home to over 300 people. 373 00:29:10,807 --> 00:29:15,835 I want to find out why they stay, when they know that a tsunami is inevitable. 374 00:29:20,967 --> 00:29:23,925 his is Geiranger and the head of the fjord. 375 00:29:24,167 --> 00:29:27,682 When the tidaI wave reaches here it has nowhere eIse to go. 376 00:29:27,767 --> 00:29:30,998 A catastrophic waII of water, 40 metres high, 377 00:29:31,087 --> 00:29:35,638 wiII smash into Geiranger and reach the spot where I'm standing now. 378 00:29:36,247 --> 00:29:39,557 AII of these buiIdings wiII disappear in an instant. 379 00:29:54,607 --> 00:29:59,886 One family has lived here for 500 years, almost 20 generations. 380 00:29:59,967 --> 00:30:04,438 Thomas Grande has his home and camping business right at the water's edge. 381 00:30:04,527 --> 00:30:06,836 He knows that one day in his lifetime, 382 00:30:06,927 --> 00:30:10,920 or his children's, or their descendants', the tsunami will come. 383 00:30:13,967 --> 00:30:17,721 Why do you not move to higher ground where it wiII be safer? 384 00:30:19,127 --> 00:30:22,915 Because we have our roots here. We Iike it very much here. 385 00:30:23,407 --> 00:30:27,480 It's a good pIace to grow up for Noah. 386 00:30:28,047 --> 00:30:30,845 CRANE: But when the wave comes, it wiII destroy your house. 387 00:30:30,927 --> 00:30:34,476 It wiII destroy this beautifuI bit of foreshore with the grass 388 00:30:34,567 --> 00:30:37,240 and the ancient barns and the boat sheds, everything wiII go. 389 00:30:37,327 --> 00:30:38,760 GRANDE: Yeah. 390 00:30:38,887 --> 00:30:41,117 Everything wiII go, because it's just materiaIs. 391 00:30:41,207 --> 00:30:45,519 he most important thing is that we can get away safeIy and that we trust. 392 00:30:45,607 --> 00:30:50,727 I think we wiII settIe down again and move back and buiId it up again. 393 00:30:51,367 --> 00:30:54,677 What does this piece of Iand mean to you personaIIy? 394 00:30:55,687 --> 00:30:58,918 I've been waIking here since my first steps, 395 00:30:59,007 --> 00:31:02,363 so it's very important for me. 396 00:31:09,367 --> 00:31:11,437 I'm reaIIy moved by this pIace, 397 00:31:11,527 --> 00:31:15,042 by the immense forces of ice and water which shape the fjords 398 00:31:15,127 --> 00:31:18,881 and which teII us so much about ScotIand's earIy days. 399 00:31:18,967 --> 00:31:20,844 But I aIso wonder whether we Britons, 400 00:31:20,927 --> 00:31:24,124 who are facing rising sea IeveIs and a change in coastIine, 401 00:31:24,207 --> 00:31:27,597 can't pick up a tip or two from the peopIe down there, 402 00:31:27,687 --> 00:31:31,282 who've Iearned to adapt to nature's more ferocious moods. 403 00:31:48,167 --> 00:31:51,443 OLIVER: Travel along Geirangerfjord and out to the open sea, 404 00:31:51,527 --> 00:31:55,759 and there's another symbol of Norwegian resilience in the face of adversity. 405 00:31:57,287 --> 00:32:02,281 Here at Alesund, in January 1904, a small blaze started in the town. 406 00:32:02,807 --> 00:32:06,482 It spread rapidly through the tightly packed wooden houses. 407 00:32:07,127 --> 00:32:11,757 10,000 people lost their homes as the entire town burnt to the ground. 408 00:32:13,167 --> 00:32:14,725 The tragedy shocked the nation, 409 00:32:14,807 --> 00:32:19,562 spurring them on to rebuild Alesund completely in just three years. 410 00:32:25,207 --> 00:32:27,482 Nearby, it took six years 411 00:32:27,567 --> 00:32:33,563 to build this extraordinary five-mile-long expressway, the Atlantic Road. 412 00:32:33,647 --> 00:32:38,323 Eight bridges skim across the sea buttressed by island stepping stones. 413 00:32:39,327 --> 00:32:41,158 Since it opened in 1989, 414 00:32:41,247 --> 00:32:46,526 the Atlantic Road's laid claim to being one of the world's greatest driving experiences. 415 00:32:51,727 --> 00:32:56,721 You don't have to go far off the road to find another curious coastal construction. 416 00:33:00,727 --> 00:33:03,480 Alice Roberts is on her way to Nyhamna 417 00:33:03,567 --> 00:33:06,206 to explore a powerful link to Britain. 418 00:33:12,807 --> 00:33:18,200 Just beyond those isIands is the North Sea, which means that between here and home, 419 00:33:18,287 --> 00:33:21,324 there's an awfuI Iot of oiI and gas. 420 00:33:26,647 --> 00:33:29,036 Our North Sea gas may be running out, 421 00:33:29,127 --> 00:33:32,278 but the Norwegians still have big reserves. 422 00:33:32,527 --> 00:33:37,317 So like asking the neighbours for a cup of sugar, we've had to come here. 423 00:33:37,647 --> 00:33:41,799 his massive gas pIant couId be keeping you warm this winter, 424 00:33:41,887 --> 00:33:47,007 because it's going to be suppIying up to a fifth of Britain's gas requirements. 425 00:33:48,407 --> 00:33:50,967 A fifth of the UK's gas, 426 00:33:51,047 --> 00:33:54,403 that's the equivalent of supplying the needs of Scotland, 427 00:33:54,487 --> 00:33:57,206 Wales and Northern Ireland. 428 00:34:01,127 --> 00:34:04,756 The gas lies 7 4 miles out to sea, 429 00:34:04,847 --> 00:34:07,725 nearly two miles below the waves. 430 00:34:07,807 --> 00:34:11,243 It's gathered by platforms sitting on the seabed, 431 00:34:11,327 --> 00:34:17,562 then drawn through pipes all the way to the processing plant here in Nyhamna. 432 00:34:18,767 --> 00:34:21,520 I'm meeting the plant director, Bernt Granas, 433 00:34:21,607 --> 00:34:26,123 to find out what happens before the gas is piped to us in Britain. 434 00:34:28,407 --> 00:34:30,762 First of aII, we have to get rid of Iiquids 435 00:34:30,847 --> 00:34:34,317 and it's a process that starts in these huge pipes here. 436 00:34:34,407 --> 00:34:38,195 ROBERS: So when the gas comes ashore, it's not just pure gas. 437 00:34:38,487 --> 00:34:43,561 It's sand, it's gas, it's water and it's antifreeze. 438 00:34:43,647 --> 00:34:45,842 ROBERS: And how Iong does this whoIe process take? 439 00:34:45,927 --> 00:34:48,077 From the gas when it arrives here on the beach 440 00:34:48,167 --> 00:34:50,556 untiI it's on its way to the UK, it's ten minutes. 441 00:34:50,647 --> 00:34:52,000 en minutes. 442 00:34:52,687 --> 00:34:55,201 And what about Norway, how much gas is used here? 443 00:34:55,287 --> 00:34:57,243 GRANAS: Oh, we hardIy use any gas at aII. 444 00:34:57,327 --> 00:34:58,442 ROBERS: So where do you get your energy from? 445 00:34:58,527 --> 00:35:03,123 We have hydro-eIectric power and for aImost anything here in Norway. 446 00:35:03,207 --> 00:35:06,279 And, of course, even this pIant is actuaIIy running on hydro-eIectric power. 447 00:35:06,367 --> 00:35:10,406 ReaIIy, so you've got a pIant here that's just cIeaning up gas for export to Britain, 448 00:35:10,487 --> 00:35:14,480 -but itseIf is powered by hydro-eIectric? -Yeah. 449 00:35:15,927 --> 00:35:17,724 ROBERS: The Norwegians are fortunate 450 00:35:17,807 --> 00:35:21,720 as they can fulfil many of their energy needs with hydro-electricity. 451 00:35:21,807 --> 00:35:24,367 So they've hardly touched their gas. 452 00:35:24,447 --> 00:35:27,723 But in Britain, we've become addicted to the stuff. 453 00:35:27,927 --> 00:35:31,602 So now we're forced to go to extraordinary lengths to get it. 454 00:35:33,367 --> 00:35:35,437 The gas leaves the plant here 455 00:35:35,527 --> 00:35:40,442 and begins its mammoth journey all the way to Easington in Yorkshire. 456 00:35:40,927 --> 00:35:43,680 7 46 miles in length, 457 00:35:43,887 --> 00:35:47,800 this is the longest sub-sea pipeline in the world. 458 00:35:56,767 --> 00:35:58,962 So this is it. I can hear it. 459 00:35:59,047 --> 00:36:02,881 his is the actuaIIy the gas you're hearing, gas going to UK. 460 00:36:02,967 --> 00:36:06,243 Seventy miIIion standard cubic metres every day, 461 00:36:06,327 --> 00:36:08,682 making up one-fifth of the gas need. 462 00:36:08,767 --> 00:36:13,841 And how on earth do you go about Iaying a pipeIine of that Iength across a seabed? 463 00:36:14,167 --> 00:36:17,398 WeII, it's quite impressive technoIogy in the sense that it's actuaIIy 464 00:36:17,487 --> 00:36:20,365 Iaid in 1 2-metre Iengths, weIded together, 465 00:36:20,487 --> 00:36:23,797 one by one, and you put it on the seabed as you go. 466 00:36:24,087 --> 00:36:27,079 And in the duration of two summers, you can do it. 467 00:36:27,167 --> 00:36:29,806 I can hear this gas rushing through here at the moment. 468 00:36:29,887 --> 00:36:32,162 How many more years do we have? 469 00:36:32,447 --> 00:36:34,563 WeII, you have at Ieast 40 more years. 470 00:36:34,647 --> 00:36:37,957 -And are you stiII Iooking for more fieIds? -AIways. 471 00:36:41,847 --> 00:36:46,557 ROBERS: 40 years, that's not long. The world's facing up to the fact 472 00:36:46,647 --> 00:36:49,844 that we need alternative ways to harness energy. 473 00:36:52,727 --> 00:36:57,005 But perhaps we couId find some soIutions to our future energy needs 474 00:36:57,087 --> 00:37:00,602 using something eIse that we have in common with Norway, 475 00:37:00,687 --> 00:37:03,121 our very Iong coastIines. 476 00:37:05,407 --> 00:37:07,682 Wherever a river meets the sea, 477 00:37:07,767 --> 00:37:11,237 you get a mixture of salt water and fresh water. 478 00:37:11,327 --> 00:37:15,445 The Norwegians' novel plan is to generate electricity 479 00:37:15,727 --> 00:37:20,642 using salt and fresh water via a process called osmosis. 480 00:37:25,047 --> 00:37:28,198 A good way to observe osmosis in action 481 00:37:28,287 --> 00:37:31,518 is to see how an egg can be pumped up in size 482 00:37:31,607 --> 00:37:33,996 when it's immersed in fresh water. 483 00:37:37,567 --> 00:37:40,320 Here are two ordinary hen's eggs. 484 00:37:40,447 --> 00:37:44,201 First of aII, I've pIaced them both in vinegar to dissoIve the sheIIs away. 485 00:37:44,287 --> 00:37:49,919 What is Ieft is a bag of eggy fIuid in a membrane. 486 00:37:50,007 --> 00:37:51,645 So aII the sheII has gone. 487 00:37:51,727 --> 00:37:54,446 Now, this one I've just Ieft Iike that as a controI, 488 00:37:54,527 --> 00:37:57,280 so we couId see how big it was to start with. 489 00:37:57,367 --> 00:37:59,562 he other egg, 490 00:37:59,647 --> 00:38:04,562 I put in this gIass of pure, fresh water 491 00:38:04,647 --> 00:38:06,205 for 24 hours 492 00:38:06,447 --> 00:38:09,086 and you can just see the difference in size. 493 00:38:09,167 --> 00:38:10,680 Just Iook at that. 494 00:38:10,887 --> 00:38:14,880 So the membrane round the outside of the egg is a semi-permeabIe membrane. 495 00:38:15,047 --> 00:38:16,639 It aIIows water in, 496 00:38:16,727 --> 00:38:20,686 but it doesn't aIIow the other substances inside the egg out. 497 00:38:20,927 --> 00:38:23,600 So this is a good demonstration of osmosis. 498 00:38:24,567 --> 00:38:27,525 he pressure in this egg is now quite enormous. 499 00:38:30,207 --> 00:38:31,481 (LAUGHS) 500 00:38:31,967 --> 00:38:33,559 Oh, dear. 501 00:38:36,447 --> 00:38:40,963 Water went in through my egg's membrane, making it swell up. 502 00:38:41,367 --> 00:38:47,124 Now, exactly the same thing would happen if the fluid inside my egg was salt water. 503 00:38:47,287 --> 00:38:49,084 It would still swell up, 504 00:38:49,167 --> 00:38:53,080 because the fresh water would be drawn inside by osmosis 505 00:38:53,247 --> 00:38:56,398 to dilute the more concentrated salty water. 506 00:38:56,887 --> 00:38:59,447 The pressure increases inside the egg, 507 00:38:59,527 --> 00:39:01,836 and harnessing osmotic pressure 508 00:39:01,927 --> 00:39:05,761 is the novel idea behind the Norwegians' power plant. 509 00:39:09,847 --> 00:39:12,122 ROBERS: HeIIo. SKILHAGEN: Hi. 510 00:39:12,927 --> 00:39:15,600 ROBERS: I'm meeting Stein Erik Skilhagen. 511 00:39:15,687 --> 00:39:19,600 He's created a model to show osmotic power in action. 512 00:39:20,567 --> 00:39:26,199 We have three chambers with saIt water and we have four chambers with fresh water. 513 00:39:26,447 --> 00:39:29,166 ROBERS: So we've got aIternating chambers of fresh and saIt water. 514 00:39:29,247 --> 00:39:31,636 -SKILHAGEN: Yeah. -And each one is separated by a membrane. 515 00:39:31,727 --> 00:39:35,083 Yeah, the pressure wiII increase and then, when it gets high enough, 516 00:39:35,167 --> 00:39:36,759 it has to evacuate somewhere. 517 00:39:36,847 --> 00:39:38,041 And that's where we have this system. 518 00:39:38,127 --> 00:39:39,845 hat's going to come out through these pipes here, is it? 519 00:39:39,927 --> 00:39:43,397 -And then, hopefuIIy, turn our turbine. -Yeah. 520 00:39:48,967 --> 00:39:51,606 ROBERS: Inside Stein Erik's clever contraption 521 00:39:51,687 --> 00:39:54,247 are four chambers of fresh water 522 00:39:54,767 --> 00:39:57,156 and three chambers of salt water, 523 00:39:57,647 --> 00:40:00,559 each separated by a special artificial membrane 524 00:40:00,647 --> 00:40:03,036 similar to the one around an egg. 525 00:40:04,647 --> 00:40:08,162 Between the chambers, osmosis takes place. 526 00:40:08,247 --> 00:40:11,125 Water forces its way through the membranes 527 00:40:11,207 --> 00:40:14,244 from the fresh water into the salt water chambers, 528 00:40:14,327 --> 00:40:16,443 and that creates a pressure, 529 00:40:16,527 --> 00:40:20,725 eventually forcing the excess water out through these pipes 530 00:40:20,807 --> 00:40:23,605 and, hopefully, turning our model turbine. 531 00:40:28,367 --> 00:40:31,643 ROBERS: Starting to get some drips coming through. 532 00:40:31,807 --> 00:40:33,923 Oh, Iook at that! Off it goes. 533 00:40:34,407 --> 00:40:36,398 hat's reaIIy impressive. 534 00:40:36,727 --> 00:40:39,525 And the water that comes out here, that is brackish water, 535 00:40:39,607 --> 00:40:42,280 a mixture of sea water and fresh water. 536 00:40:42,607 --> 00:40:44,040 ROBERS: So that's spinning round niceIy now. 537 00:40:44,127 --> 00:40:48,439 So if you were to attach a generator to this, you couId make eIectricity. 538 00:40:48,527 --> 00:40:51,485 Yeah, we think this is going to be a very good way 539 00:40:51,567 --> 00:40:53,876 to produce new renewabIe energy. 540 00:40:55,767 --> 00:40:59,237 ROBERS: The pressure osmosis can produce is enormous. 541 00:40:59,327 --> 00:41:02,399 An osmotic power plant could harness energy 542 00:41:02,487 --> 00:41:05,923 equivalent to nearly a 400-foot waterfall. 543 00:41:06,607 --> 00:41:09,963 By exploiting this completely natural process, 544 00:41:10,047 --> 00:41:12,686 far more electricity could be generated 545 00:41:12,767 --> 00:41:16,601 than from a conventional water wheel driven by the same river. 546 00:41:17,887 --> 00:41:20,355 We have some things we need to... 547 00:41:20,967 --> 00:41:22,400 ROBERS: The model may work, 548 00:41:22,487 --> 00:41:26,605 but scaling it up into a renewable resource to rival wind power 549 00:41:26,687 --> 00:41:28,598 is a big challenge. 550 00:41:29,607 --> 00:41:33,122 Full-scale power stations are still a long way off. 551 00:41:33,487 --> 00:41:38,163 But for me, this is really surprising and promising science. 552 00:41:40,487 --> 00:41:42,523 If the Norwegian prototype works, 553 00:41:42,607 --> 00:41:45,917 then just imagine what that couId mean for the UK. 554 00:41:46,007 --> 00:41:51,320 We couId Iook forward to a time when we couId produce cIean, renewabIe energy 555 00:41:51,407 --> 00:41:56,322 from the fresh water and saIt water that's so abundant aIong our coastIine. 556 00:42:05,487 --> 00:42:11,005 OLIVER: To travel along this coast by land, you need time to spare, and then some. 557 00:42:13,207 --> 00:42:16,563 To speed up my journey, I'm heading for Trondheim. 558 00:42:24,767 --> 00:42:27,327 I'm not stopping in the port for long. 559 00:42:27,607 --> 00:42:31,885 This is my springing-off point to the far north. 560 00:42:35,807 --> 00:42:37,445 Because Norway's so Iong and thin 561 00:42:37,527 --> 00:42:40,325 and has that fiddIy coastIine with aII those fjords, 562 00:42:40,407 --> 00:42:43,444 it makes more sense to traveI by sea than by road. 563 00:42:43,527 --> 00:42:47,440 So they've got this ferry that traveIs practicaIIy the entire coastIine. 564 00:42:47,527 --> 00:42:51,122 So that's me aII the way to the Arctic CircIe and beyond. 565 00:42:53,087 --> 00:42:54,236 HeIIo. 566 00:42:56,727 --> 00:43:00,959 WeII, this is nice. A bit posher than your average ferry, I must say. 567 00:43:05,807 --> 00:43:07,604 This is one of 12 ferries 568 00:43:07,687 --> 00:43:11,282 that make up a scheduled service the locals call the Hurtigruten, 569 00:43:11,367 --> 00:43:13,198 or Coastal Express. 570 00:43:13,287 --> 00:43:17,565 And it's a transport system with a special place in Norwegian hearts. 571 00:43:18,807 --> 00:43:21,879 Since 1893, the Hurtigruten fleet of ships 572 00:43:21,967 --> 00:43:26,722 has been a reliable way to reach some of the most northerly towns and villages. 573 00:43:28,647 --> 00:43:33,960 In the early years, it was a lifeline for the people living in these remote areas. 574 00:43:36,847 --> 00:43:39,486 Day and night, the ships faithfully ply their way 575 00:43:39,567 --> 00:43:42,559 up and down the length of the Norwegian coast. 576 00:43:43,727 --> 00:43:48,243 The Hurtigruten service seems unstoppable, even when the weather whips up. 577 00:43:48,927 --> 00:43:50,406 (SIREN BLOWS) 578 00:43:52,247 --> 00:43:56,365 The oldest ship of the fleet still steams by at an incredible pace. 579 00:44:00,007 --> 00:44:03,602 hat gIobe on that IittIe isIand marks the start 580 00:44:03,687 --> 00:44:07,077 or the boundary of the Arctic CircIe. So, I'm just about to cross it 581 00:44:07,167 --> 00:44:10,637 and I'm waiting nervousIy for a siren to bIow, actuaIIy. 582 00:44:11,407 --> 00:44:12,886 (SIREN BLOWS) 583 00:44:14,087 --> 00:44:17,921 hat wiII be the Arctic CircIe, then. It's exactIy the weather I was expecting. 584 00:44:18,007 --> 00:44:19,759 It's the wiId north. 585 00:44:23,567 --> 00:44:28,766 What I wasn't expecting was the arrival of a mythical sea god, King Neptune. 586 00:44:28,847 --> 00:44:32,522 ANNOUNCER: Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to the Arctic Circle ceremony. 587 00:44:32,807 --> 00:44:35,605 King Neptune is here to say hello to you. 588 00:44:35,687 --> 00:44:37,245 (ALL LAUGHING) 589 00:44:37,447 --> 00:44:39,119 his I don't need. 590 00:44:39,887 --> 00:44:41,445 (WOMEN SCREAMS) 591 00:44:41,927 --> 00:44:43,440 (ALL LAUGHING) 592 00:44:44,047 --> 00:44:45,275 (GASPS) 593 00:44:47,487 --> 00:44:50,524 Right, do your worst, Neptune, come on. 594 00:44:52,247 --> 00:44:53,805 (OLIVER GASPS) 595 00:44:54,447 --> 00:44:56,756 EviI despot, that's what he is. 596 00:44:59,247 --> 00:45:04,196 But Neptune's ice-breaker is nothing compared to Norway's most northerly land. 597 00:45:07,967 --> 00:45:11,323 Beyond even the Hurtigruten's reach is Svalbard. 598 00:45:15,487 --> 00:45:20,197 Svalbard is a group of Norwegian islands on the way to the North Pole. 599 00:45:20,287 --> 00:45:23,359 It's a tough place to live, but polar bears like it. 600 00:45:23,807 --> 00:45:28,039 And so does one Aussie photographer on the hunt for a good bear shot. 601 00:45:39,327 --> 00:45:42,637 My name's Jason Roberts. I was born in AustraIia, 602 00:45:42,927 --> 00:45:45,157 which from where we're sitting at the moment 603 00:45:45,247 --> 00:45:48,239 is compIeteIy the opposite side of the gIobe. 604 00:45:49,207 --> 00:45:51,038 ROBERS: I currently live on Svalbard, 605 00:45:51,127 --> 00:45:54,563 which is one of the most amazing places on the planet. 606 00:45:55,607 --> 00:45:59,520 So adventure and outdoors is the reason why I come to Svalbard. 607 00:46:00,287 --> 00:46:02,323 No beautifuI girI invoIved. 608 00:46:02,407 --> 00:46:03,965 (CAMERA CLICKS) 609 00:46:06,247 --> 00:46:11,002 UnfortunateIy, we're too Iate for any good shots of the bear taking a kiII here. 610 00:46:11,847 --> 00:46:13,883 We're too Iate for dinner. 611 00:46:18,047 --> 00:46:22,518 I move from height to height, so the next stop will be up on the coastline. 612 00:46:22,927 --> 00:46:26,840 We're foIIowing the ice edge. We have new ice out from the oIder ice here. 613 00:46:26,927 --> 00:46:30,886 And more than movement we're looking for the wrong colour. 614 00:46:31,567 --> 00:46:36,243 Bears are more creamy yellow colour than the ice. 615 00:46:47,287 --> 00:46:49,164 He's just waIking, Iicking the air, 616 00:46:49,247 --> 00:46:52,284 trying to smeII for new ringed-seaI Iairs. 617 00:46:52,527 --> 00:46:55,917 Not fussed about us at aII. He knows he's the king. 618 00:47:02,047 --> 00:47:06,006 PoIar bears are generaIIy quite good animaIs. We spend so much time with some bears, 619 00:47:06,087 --> 00:47:09,363 you reaIIy feeI Iike you get to know their personaIity. 620 00:47:09,447 --> 00:47:13,156 After many days, up to weeks, with the same poIar bear, 621 00:47:13,247 --> 00:47:17,126 you feeI Iike you can come and find them two weeks Iater and say, 622 00:47:17,207 --> 00:47:20,165 ''Hi, good to see you again after Iast time.'' 623 00:47:23,367 --> 00:47:27,280 Svalbard is a place that, like a lot of extreme things, 624 00:47:27,367 --> 00:47:29,437 eats into you like a virus. 625 00:47:29,807 --> 00:47:31,843 And it's harder and harder to get away from it, 626 00:47:31,927 --> 00:47:35,920 and everything else seems so mundane, boring. 627 00:47:37,087 --> 00:47:41,877 Once you get that poIar virus in you, it's very hard to remove it. 628 00:47:43,887 --> 00:47:45,445 (CAMERA CLICKS) 629 00:47:47,527 --> 00:47:49,916 Totally awesome, just totally awesome. 630 00:47:50,007 --> 00:47:54,285 CouId you feeI the snow around me pound as he went through the Iair? 631 00:47:55,127 --> 00:47:57,561 HardIy ever experienced something Iike that. 632 00:47:57,647 --> 00:48:01,640 More peopIe have been on the top of Everest than have ever experienced that. 633 00:48:03,207 --> 00:48:05,277 otaIIy awesome. 634 00:48:17,087 --> 00:48:21,319 OLIVER: Back on the Coastal Express, I'm on course to reach my destination, 635 00:48:21,407 --> 00:48:23,204 the Lofoten Islands. 636 00:48:24,087 --> 00:48:29,605 Few Norwegians get this far north, but many are in awe of these mystical islands. 637 00:48:32,287 --> 00:48:35,518 I can feeI a note of anticipation in my stomach, 638 00:48:35,607 --> 00:48:38,758 but imagine how, over 60 years ago, 639 00:48:38,847 --> 00:48:42,044 British commandos and their Navy comrades feIt 640 00:48:42,127 --> 00:48:46,166 as they steamed in secret through these waters in 1941, 641 00:48:46,247 --> 00:48:50,445 about to take the war to HitIer in Nazi-occupied Norway. 642 00:48:56,567 --> 00:49:02,039 In the early morning of 4th March, 194 1, the Germans occupying the Lofoten Islands 643 00:49:02,127 --> 00:49:05,437 were utterly unaware of what was about to hit them. 644 00:49:06,847 --> 00:49:10,044 Five destroyers and two ships carrying commandos 645 00:49:10,127 --> 00:49:12,482 were creeping up on the islands. 646 00:49:13,287 --> 00:49:15,642 This was Operation Claymore. 647 00:49:18,927 --> 00:49:23,318 hey came into this harbour at SvoIvaer under cover of darkness. 648 00:49:23,407 --> 00:49:27,525 In earIy 1941, the German forces were supremeIy confident, 649 00:49:27,607 --> 00:49:29,757 the masters of Western Europe, 650 00:49:29,847 --> 00:49:34,762 but this raid by British and Norwegian forces was the beginning of the fight back. 651 00:49:38,567 --> 00:49:43,243 Fish-oil factories being used to make glycerine for munitions were destroyed. 652 00:49:43,367 --> 00:49:47,246 German soldiers, officials and collaborators were rounded up 653 00:49:47,327 --> 00:49:50,717 and the whole operation was filmed to show the folks back home 654 00:49:50,887 --> 00:49:53,640 that we were standing up to Hitler. 655 00:49:53,727 --> 00:49:55,479 ANNOUNCER: In a daring and highly successful raid, 656 00:49:55,567 --> 00:49:59,560 British and Norwegian forces swept down on the Lofoten Islands off Narvik. 657 00:49:59,647 --> 00:50:05,279 We sank 18,000 tonnes of enemy merchant shipping and took over 220 prisoners. 658 00:50:05,407 --> 00:50:09,719 Stinging blows like this are swinging the war of nerves against Hitler. 659 00:50:18,407 --> 00:50:20,682 OLIVER: As the euphoria of success wore off, 660 00:50:20,767 --> 00:50:24,521 the world viewed the raid on the Lofotens as a vital morale booster, 661 00:50:24,607 --> 00:50:26,962 but with little strategic value. 662 00:50:28,447 --> 00:50:32,406 Only a handful of people knew the true significance of this raid, 663 00:50:32,487 --> 00:50:37,163 how a chance discovery here would help change the course of World War II. 664 00:50:40,767 --> 00:50:43,645 WhiIe the ships were bIazing in the harbour over there, 665 00:50:43,727 --> 00:50:48,278 a group of brave British soIdiers managed to get aboard an armed German trawIer 666 00:50:48,367 --> 00:50:52,918 caIIed the Krebs, which was out there between that big rock and the shore. 667 00:50:53,047 --> 00:50:57,279 Before it sank, they managed to recover a priceIess prize, 668 00:50:57,447 --> 00:50:59,802 a set of wheeIs Iike these, 669 00:50:59,887 --> 00:51:04,722 top-secret rotors from a German Enigma encoding machine. 670 00:51:06,487 --> 00:51:11,003 Type a letter on the Enigma machine and it made these gear wheels rotate, 671 00:51:11,727 --> 00:51:14,924 producing a message you could only read with another machine, 672 00:51:15,007 --> 00:51:17,396 with the rotors set the same way. 673 00:51:18,487 --> 00:51:21,604 Not only were rotors captured in the Lofoten raid, 674 00:51:21,687 --> 00:51:24,565 they also got hold of an Enigma code book. 675 00:51:25,287 --> 00:51:29,644 All were sent back to Bletchley Park, the British code-breaking centre. 676 00:51:31,327 --> 00:51:36,321 hese were vitaI parts of the puzzIe, heIping finaIIy to crack the Enigma code, 677 00:51:36,607 --> 00:51:39,679 shortening the war and saving countIess Iives. 678 00:51:50,327 --> 00:51:53,603 The Lofoten archipelago is made up of six main islands, 679 00:51:53,687 --> 00:51:56,485 which sit deep within the Arctic Circle. 680 00:51:57,527 --> 00:52:00,246 These waters aren't as cold as you might imagine. 681 00:52:00,327 --> 00:52:02,602 They're washed by the warm Gulf Stream, 682 00:52:02,687 --> 00:52:07,078 which attracts huge shoals of cod and the fishermen to catch them. 683 00:52:11,567 --> 00:52:16,277 The town of Svalvard is dotted with evidence of the boom times of cod fishing. 684 00:52:17,527 --> 00:52:21,076 Huts Iike these were buiIt to accommodate an army of fishermen, 685 00:52:21,167 --> 00:52:24,876 thousands of them, sIeeping two or even three to a bunk. 686 00:52:24,967 --> 00:52:28,403 hey came every winter, when the cod, in their miIIions, 687 00:52:28,487 --> 00:52:31,559 arrived in the waters of the north of Norway. 688 00:52:35,327 --> 00:52:38,399 With a big bounty of fish suddenly landing in their laps, 689 00:52:38,487 --> 00:52:40,921 they needed a way to preserve it. 690 00:52:42,647 --> 00:52:46,276 So the fish were tied in pairs and hung in the air to dry. 691 00:52:47,087 --> 00:52:51,683 It's an age-old method for making fast food that the Vikings knew all about. 692 00:52:57,847 --> 00:53:00,680 Right then, this is the dried cod. 693 00:53:00,767 --> 00:53:05,557 Every March, these huge racks are festooned with the fresh fish 694 00:53:05,647 --> 00:53:07,683 and it dries in the wind. 695 00:53:07,767 --> 00:53:11,362 his is what the Vikings took with them on their epic voyages, 696 00:53:11,487 --> 00:53:15,036 because once it's dried, it's preserved and it wiII Iast a Iong time. 697 00:53:15,127 --> 00:53:18,642 Now, beIieve it or not, I'm supposed to eat a bit of this 698 00:53:18,727 --> 00:53:21,719 after first tenderising it by beating it with this hammer. 699 00:53:21,807 --> 00:53:25,959 But I've eaten some things in my time, but I draw the Iine. 700 00:53:26,047 --> 00:53:27,560 his is beyond rank. 701 00:53:27,687 --> 00:53:32,681 I teII you, if this is what the Vikings ate as weII as being terrifyingIy vioIent, 702 00:53:33,167 --> 00:53:36,398 they must have had breath that wouId stun a monkey. 703 00:53:40,247 --> 00:53:43,045 The Vikings didn't just keep the dry cod for themselves, 704 00:53:43,127 --> 00:53:45,641 they traded it with other countries. 705 00:53:48,207 --> 00:53:51,085 You don't reaIIy think of the Vikings as fish saIesmen, 706 00:53:51,167 --> 00:53:54,557 but as Christianity became more and more estabIished in Britain, 707 00:53:54,647 --> 00:53:58,276 the Church began to discourage the eating of meat on Fridays, 708 00:53:58,407 --> 00:54:00,716 so fish was on the menu instead. 709 00:54:01,167 --> 00:54:06,446 Of course, fresh fish stock started to faII and dried cod was in demand. 710 00:54:10,287 --> 00:54:12,118 Trading cod with countries like Britain 711 00:54:12,207 --> 00:54:16,439 helped make the Vikings rich enough to indulge in some grand designs. 712 00:54:17,127 --> 00:54:21,757 Here in the Lofotens, they've reconstructed a Viking chieftains' long house, 713 00:54:21,847 --> 00:54:25,283 based on evidence from archaeological remains nearby. 714 00:54:25,967 --> 00:54:29,562 You could say it's the replica of a house that cod built. 715 00:54:31,287 --> 00:54:33,755 -HeIIo, Margarethe. -HeIIo, weIcome. 716 00:54:34,407 --> 00:54:38,082 OLIVER: Archaeologist Margarethe Rabas is going to show me around. 717 00:54:44,607 --> 00:54:46,996 So what happens in here, then? It Iooks Iike a bit of everything. 718 00:54:47,087 --> 00:54:51,842 RABAS: his is what we beIieve has been the Iiving quarters, 719 00:54:51,927 --> 00:54:56,284 where most of their everyday Iife has been going on here. 720 00:54:57,607 --> 00:55:02,397 OLIVER: How many peopIe wouId have, you know, Iived and worked in this buiIding? 721 00:55:02,487 --> 00:55:08,517 It's reaIIy hard to say, but an estimate is between 70 and 80 peopIe. 722 00:55:08,607 --> 00:55:10,677 -hat's a big group. -Yeah. 723 00:55:11,927 --> 00:55:13,565 RABAS: his is the great haII 724 00:55:13,647 --> 00:55:19,005 and this room has been the poIiticaI and sociaI centre. 725 00:55:19,087 --> 00:55:23,922 OLIVER: So this is the heart, the beating heart of the community here. 726 00:55:24,047 --> 00:55:29,758 What was found by the archaeoIogists on the actuaI site? 727 00:55:29,847 --> 00:55:33,726 RABAS: hey found everyday tooIs and things Iike that, 728 00:55:33,807 --> 00:55:39,165 but aIso reaIIy precious imported items Iike gIass and pottery. 729 00:55:39,967 --> 00:55:43,164 here was gIass imported from Britain found here. 730 00:55:47,847 --> 00:55:50,566 OLIVER: These artefacts of commerce and conflict 731 00:55:50,647 --> 00:55:53,445 show there were two sides to the Vikings. 732 00:55:53,687 --> 00:55:58,044 We know they were warlike, but they didn't just come to Britain to raid, 733 00:55:58,127 --> 00:56:00,083 they also came to trade. 734 00:56:05,967 --> 00:56:09,721 The Norwegians have preserved the heritage of their seafaring ancestors, 735 00:56:09,807 --> 00:56:13,243 who reached out from this shore to Britain and beyond. 736 00:56:13,727 --> 00:56:17,800 Records of their voyages were written down in the great Norse sagas. 737 00:56:19,127 --> 00:56:21,561 Reading about it is aII very weII, 738 00:56:22,047 --> 00:56:25,881 but if I reaIIy want to find out about how the Vikings got around, 739 00:56:25,967 --> 00:56:28,083 I'd better get aboard one of these. 740 00:56:29,647 --> 00:56:32,525 This beautiful clinker-built longship is modern, 741 00:56:32,607 --> 00:56:34,996 but it's made to an ancient blueprint 742 00:56:35,087 --> 00:56:38,363 and the feeling on board is authentic and timeless. 743 00:56:38,927 --> 00:56:41,395 (SINGING IN NORWEGIAN) 744 00:56:44,167 --> 00:56:48,285 On a Viking Iongship on a fjord in Norway, briIIiant. 745 00:56:49,607 --> 00:56:51,484 (SINGING IN NORWEGIAN) 746 00:56:56,807 --> 00:56:58,684 OLIVER: Listening to the old Viking song, 747 00:56:58,767 --> 00:57:02,237 I'm reminded of what we've found on our trip to Norway. 748 00:57:05,047 --> 00:57:07,845 That memories of our shared histories across the North Sea 749 00:57:07,927 --> 00:57:11,203 keep this country and our own fundamentally linked. 750 00:57:13,127 --> 00:57:18,724 Our landscapes shaped by ice, our common thirst for energy, 751 00:57:20,167 --> 00:57:22,123 our reliance on the sea. 752 00:57:25,647 --> 00:57:28,400 And the bond of blood between seafaring folk 753 00:57:28,487 --> 00:57:32,196 whose lives have touched in friendship and in war. 754 00:57:40,647 --> 00:57:45,323 Next time on Coast, we follow the Vikings back to the east coast of England, 755 00:57:46,087 --> 00:57:48,760 where Mark Horton meets the onslaught. 756 00:57:48,847 --> 00:57:50,200 (VIKING YELLING) 757 00:57:50,287 --> 00:57:52,517 Miranda's battling with birds. 758 00:57:55,207 --> 00:57:58,802 While me and some tough lassies wrestle with a lifeboat.