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00:00:12,404 --> 00:00:16,556
0f all the world's great myths,
the oldest and the most enduring

2
00:00:16,724 --> 00:00:20,273
is the tale of an earthly paradise.

3
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A place beyond the clouds,
untouched by time and death,

4
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where the ancient wisdom still lives on.

5
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The land has many names.

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0ne of them is Shangri-La.

7
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(PROPELLER STUTTERS)

8
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- What's happening?
- We're out of fuel!

9
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The story of Shangri-La begins
with a plane crash in the wilds of Tibet.

10
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The hero, Conway, is rescued
by mysterious strangers

11
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who take him to a valley unmarked on any map...

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..a place where time has stood still.

13
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Welcome to Shangri-La.

14
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In our congested and material age,

15
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we humans still dream of a world
beyond the here and now,

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in another time zone than our own.

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The very name Shangri-La has come to mean
a paradise on earth.

18
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But could Shangri-La have been a real place?
Where did the story come from?

19
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The story of Shangri-La was invented
in the 1930s by James Hilton

20
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in his novel ''Lost Horizon''.

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The tale of a hidden valley where wisdom
was preserved to save us from self-destruction

22
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struck a deep chord in the pessimistic years
between the two world wars.

23
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But like all good stories,
Shangri-La wasn't plucked out of the sky.

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Its roots lie in an ancient legend
and in a tantalising cluster of rumours

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which surfaced in the 16th century.

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(HORNS HONK)

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The rumours surfaced here in India.

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The path which leads to Shangri-La begins
in the north Indian city of Agra,

29
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in the 16th century,
the capital of the Mogul empire.

30
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In those days, India was the centre of the world,

31
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the emperor, Akbar the Great,
as powerful as any king on earth.

32
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A Muslim who ruled a Hindu empire,

33
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Akbar was fascinated by the ancient myths
of Hindu India.

34
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He sent an expedition to find the source
of the sacred River Ganges,

35
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which legend said fell from heaven.

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When the expedition returned to Agra,
Akbar's court heard fantastic tales

37
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of an unknown land beyond the Himalayas.

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His Christian guests were astonished
to hear about a kingdom

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where the people worshipped a saviour
and had monks and monasteries, like them.

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It was nothing less than a lost world.

41
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And there was more. A Muslim merchant
stood up here in the royal audience hall

42
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and said he knew more
about this unknown kingdom.

43
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It had cities and thousands of people

44
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and its religious rituals were uncannily similar
to the Christians'.

45
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And it had a name: Shambala.

46
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(BIRDS CALLING)

47
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And on Shambala there hangs quite a tale.

48
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For centuries, the story had been told
of a magic land north of the Himalayas,

49
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a land of peace and plenty,

50
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a paradise on earth.

51
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The tale is still told today.

52
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There is a legend that far away,
beyond the Himalayas, lies a secret valley

53
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hidden by a ring of snow-covered peaks.

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At its centre is a beautiful crystal mountain.

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This is the gateway to the kingdom of Shambala.

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Here, the people live in peace and harmony.

57
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There is no hunger or sickness,
they live long and happy lives.

58
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Now, the task for the rulers of Shambala

59
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is to guard the treasures of human knowledge,

60
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ready for the time, which will come,
when the world will be ruined by war, violence

61
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and greed.

62
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Of course, some say Shambala is
purely an imaginary land...

63
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..but others say it is a real place

64
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and it can still be found,

65
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if only the seeker knows where and how to look.

66
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Tricky things, myths, aren't they,
especially here in India.

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Nowhere else is the line so bewitchingly blurred
between the real world

68
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and the land of dreams.

69
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(BELL TINKLING)

70
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The entire notion of this mythical kingdom is...

71
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..that it's somehow a better world.

72
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It's a better existence, it's a better reality.

73
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- Kings live forever, hundreds of years.
- Yeah, yeah.

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There's no hunger and that's important
because this is a culture where hunger exists.

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But is there any sense, in the legend,

76
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that it's actually possible to go, physically,
to journey to Shambala, on this earth?

77
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Or does the physical journey become
a purely spiritual one?

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Does the tradition have anything to say on that?

79
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I think it's not geography, Michael,
and I don't think it was intended to be.

80
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I think, Michael...

81
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..journeys that don't end
are so much more exciting.

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(MICHAEL LAUGHING)

83
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And so I set off on a journey which might not end
to a place which might not exist.

84
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My plan was to follow the route
of the first explorers of Tibet,

85
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who tried to find the land of Shambala.

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Because the legend of Shambala, I think,
holds the key to the tale of Shangri-La.

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(ANNOUNCEMENT ON PA SYSTEM)

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I wasn't the first, of course.

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Ever since the 16th century,
a stream of Westerners, driven by the legend,

90
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has tried to find the magic kingdom,

91
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each believing in his own Shangri-La.

92
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In those days, there were three ways to go.

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A great circle, east through Sikkim

94
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or west, through the closed land of Ladakh,

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or straight over
the greatest wall of peaks on earth.

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This was the route of the first seeker, a young
Portuguese Jesuit, Antonio Andrade.

97
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Andrade's adventure
would have been completely forgotten

98
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but for the survival of the account
he wrote at the time.

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This is it: ''O Descobrimento Do Tibet'',
''The Discovery of Tibet''.

100
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It describes
one of the most fascinating journeys in history.

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(VENDOR CALLING OUT)

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Seeking what he thought might be
a lost Christian kingdom,

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Andrade and his friend Marquez
set off disguised as Hindu pilgrims.

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(CROWD TALKING AND CHANTING)

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(RELIGIOUS SINGING)

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Their first stop was Haridwar
on the River Ganges.

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Haridwar is particularly sacred to Indian people

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because this is the point
where the Ganges rushes down

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between two great rocky hills
from the Himalayan foothills

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and meets the plains of India.

111
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It's one of the stages on its journey
from heaven to the sea, as the Indians say.

112
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And I suppose that's what paradises are about.

113
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It's a perennial urge in human nature
to seek them...

114
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..to step out of our time zone into another.

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(SHELLS TRUMPETING)

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And sacred places like this
are where the contact is sharpest...

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..where for a moment you can actually cross over
into another world.

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(BELLS AND GONGS SOUNDING)

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From Haridwar, the path to the mysterious
16th-century land of Shambala

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led into the Himalayan foothills.

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Like Akbar's expedition and the Jesuit Andrade,
I followed the sacred Ganges...

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..up and up.

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(MICHAEL) That's the highest mountain in India.
No, no, no. Just the...

124
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what look like canyons and river valleys.

125
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Because this is the...

126
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So we've roughly sorted out where we're going!

127
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- What are you doing?
- We are blasting.

128
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Blasting, morning, today?

129
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- So we have to wait. Road is closed.
- Closed.

130
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Right.

131
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Well, that's irritating.

132
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Another seeker, the British explorer
William Moorcroft, was stopped here in 1812.

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Shaking with fear,
he had to crawl along the 100-foot precipice

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disguised in the turban and pantaloons
of a Persian merchant.

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(HUGE BLAST)

136
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Just look at that cloud of dust!

137
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Of course, in the story of Shangri-La,

138
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and in the ancient legend of Shambala,

139
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getting to the magic kingdom is
a great feat in itself.

140
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And it still is today, in a sense.

141
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This road was only blasted through
in the late 20th century.

142
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Until then, the only way was to follow up
these gorges on a narrow footpath.

143
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For centuries, the only people to do that were
the holy men, the sadhus and the pilgrims

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who made their way up into those remote wastes.

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Beyond the gorges, Andrade entered
a landscape no outsider had ever seen before...

146
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..a world where gods manifested themselves
in snow peaks and ice caves

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and the lips of glaciers.

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00:15:10,844 --> 00:15:12,914
They were heading for Badrinath,

149
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the shrine of the great god Vishnu,
the preserver of the universe.

150
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And at Badrinath,
we entered the military zone bordering China.

151
00:15:25,444 --> 00:15:28,322
(SPEAKING OWN LANGUAGE)

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(MICHAEL) Do we need
our piece of paper back?

153
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- Take care.
- Thank you. Thank you.

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''Ahead, now, ''Andrade wrote,

155
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''I saw the highest and most terrible mountains
that could possibly be imagined on this earth. ''

156
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His guides were leading him
to the 20,000-foot Mana Pass into Tibet.

157
00:16:08,644 --> 00:16:10,316
So here we are.

158
00:16:10,484 --> 00:16:13,476
This is Mana, the last village in India.

159
00:16:15,404 --> 00:16:21,479
This is where a British expedition to find the
source of the Ganges turned back in 1808.

160
00:16:21,644 --> 00:16:25,398
''It was a sight of majestic splendour, ''
one of them wrote,

161
00:16:25,564 --> 00:16:28,362
''but it filled our minds with dread.

162
00:16:31,644 --> 00:16:36,923
''The locals told us that beyond these peaks
lay an ancient city built by the gods,

163
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''but our guides refused to go on,

164
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''saying we could make the attempt ourselves
if we wished to be turned into stone. ''

165
00:16:52,604 --> 00:16:55,880
A young Indian prince, brave and strong,

166
00:16:56,044 --> 00:16:59,195
set off in search of Shambala.

167
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After crossing many mountains

168
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and facing snow leopards
and winged lions with turquoise manes,

169
00:17:07,124 --> 00:17:09,957
he came to the cave of an old hermit

170
00:17:10,124 --> 00:17:16,643
who asked him, ''Where on earth are you going
across these wastes of snow and ice?''

171
00:17:17,484 --> 00:17:21,159
''To find Shambala,'' the youth replied.

172
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''Aha!'' said the old man.

173
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''Then I can help you.

174
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''When you reach Copper Mountain,
your path will blocked by an impassable river.

175
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''There you will meet a terrifying demon
called Flashing Lightning.

176
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''She will ask, 'Why have you come
and what do you desire?'

177
00:17:46,844 --> 00:17:50,678
''If you answer with a true heart,
she will freeze the river

178
00:17:50,844 --> 00:17:54,393
''and allow you to cross
and continue your journey.

179
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''But if you are unworthy,
''you will go no further.''

180
00:18:07,444 --> 00:18:11,039
It was no supernatural power
that blocked our way.

181
00:18:11,204 --> 00:18:14,355
Since the Chinese invasion of Tibet in the 1950s,

182
00:18:14,524 --> 00:18:18,233
the Mana Pass, which Andrade took,
has been closed

183
00:18:18,404 --> 00:18:20,998
and we were forbidden to cross.

184
00:18:23,364 --> 00:18:29,075
And so, to continue our journey, we were forced
to make a great detour, through Nepal.

185
00:18:52,004 --> 00:18:53,437
(SHEPHERD SHOUTING)

186
00:18:53,604 --> 00:18:58,280
Nearly 300 miles west of Kathmandu
lies the village of Simikot.

187
00:19:00,684 --> 00:19:05,633
It's a tiny government outpost
in a land in the grip of civil war.

188
00:19:05,804 --> 00:19:10,036
In the mountains all around us
were Maoist guerrillas.

189
00:19:11,124 --> 00:19:15,959
0ur plan now was to slip into Tibet
through the back door as tourists.

190
00:19:23,484 --> 00:19:27,318
And here in Simikot,
we found our means of transport.

191
00:19:28,324 --> 00:19:30,554
And we found our guide.

192
00:19:40,764 --> 00:19:45,884
Descended from a long line of Tibetan lamas,
the grandson of a great magician,

193
00:19:46,044 --> 00:19:49,753
Tsewang is a man adept
at crossing between worlds.

194
00:20:04,844 --> 00:20:10,794
The old track ways through western Nepal
into Tibet are all blocked by Maoist guerrillas.

195
00:20:10,964 --> 00:20:14,400
So we're hitching a lift
with a medical foundation

196
00:20:14,564 --> 00:20:19,797
who are taking medicines and supplies
over the mountains into the Limi valley.

197
00:20:19,964 --> 00:20:22,398
We'll walk into Tibet from there.

198
00:20:26,444 --> 00:20:29,402
It sounds easy when you put it like that.

199
00:20:29,564 --> 00:20:33,796
0n paper, our detour through Nepal
looked long, hard and risky.

200
00:20:35,524 --> 00:20:40,882
But better than we could have ever planned,
it proved the right path to take.

201
00:20:46,404 --> 00:20:51,956
Tsewang had been right. There were
no guerrillas down there in the Limi valley.

202
00:20:58,644 --> 00:21:02,159
0ur Russian pilots, though,
weren't taking any chances

203
00:21:02,324 --> 00:21:05,873
and left the engine running
as they threw our bags out.

204
00:21:10,044 --> 00:21:12,478
There they go.

205
00:21:29,324 --> 00:21:31,394
Phwoar! How about that?

206
00:21:35,084 --> 00:21:39,635
So this is Limi valley, the last valley before Tibet.

207
00:21:42,084 --> 00:21:44,359
(BELLS JINGLING)

208
00:21:51,004 --> 00:21:53,199
(DRUM BEATING QUICK RHYTHM)

209
00:21:58,964 --> 00:22:01,319
We're inside Nepal here,

210
00:22:01,484 --> 00:22:06,274
but the people belong to
the ancient culture of western Tibet,

211
00:22:06,444 --> 00:22:10,357
an unbroken link with the time, 1,000 years ago,

212
00:22:10,524 --> 00:22:14,312
when the legend of the Himalayan paradise
first appeared.

213
00:22:26,884 --> 00:22:32,242
Here in Limi, I felt as if I'd dropped
through a trapdoor into another time,

214
00:22:32,404 --> 00:22:37,558
into a place where the world of Tibetan myth
was still alive.

215
00:22:52,924 --> 00:22:56,837
That night in the monastery,
they summoned the spirits

216
00:22:57,004 --> 00:22:59,279
with drums and trumpets.

217
00:23:00,204 --> 00:23:03,594
(DEEP, RESONATING NOTES)

218
00:23:03,764 --> 00:23:06,073
And Death himself appeared.

219
00:23:06,244 --> 00:23:09,361
Not an abstraction but a black-faced demon

220
00:23:09,524 --> 00:23:13,756
who showed me my destiny
on a piece of human skull.

221
00:23:32,404 --> 00:23:35,521
The great hero and magician Padma the Wise

222
00:23:35,684 --> 00:23:39,597
chose 21 secret valleys in the Himalayas

223
00:23:39,764 --> 00:23:44,884
and in them he hid the most precious treasures
known to man.

224
00:23:45,364 --> 00:23:49,403
He made these valleys invisible,
so the story goes,

225
00:23:49,564 --> 00:23:53,637
intending that they shall only reappear
in times of trouble.

226
00:23:56,124 --> 00:24:00,083
Now, some say this is just a fairy story.

227
00:24:01,004 --> 00:24:06,840
But others say that the treasures Padma hid
were wisdom and knowledge

228
00:24:07,004 --> 00:24:12,124
and when the time comes,
the enlightened will be guided to these valleys,

229
00:24:12,284 --> 00:24:16,277
where they will rediscover
the sacred objects and texts

230
00:24:16,444 --> 00:24:20,198
that will be needed to rebuild the world.

231
00:24:28,244 --> 00:24:30,633
Amazing houses, aren't they?

232
00:24:30,804 --> 00:24:37,642
The next day, as custom demands,
we paid a visit to the keeper of the secret valley,

233
00:24:37,804 --> 00:24:40,921
the lama of the monastery of Jhang.

234
00:24:44,684 --> 00:24:46,720
Wow! What an amazing place.

235
00:24:49,244 --> 00:24:51,314
God, this is astonishing, isn't it?

236
00:24:51,484 --> 00:24:55,443
(SPEAKING OWN LANGUAGE)

237
00:24:57,084 --> 00:25:01,760
Toling? So this came after the Chinese invasion?

238
00:25:01,924 --> 00:25:06,361
- How old is this? This is an ancient piece?
- Very ancient.

239
00:25:06,524 --> 00:25:09,516
- From 1,000 years, maybe.
- More than that.

240
00:25:09,684 --> 00:25:15,077
This is from Toling monastery,
the greatest monastery of all in western Tibet.

241
00:25:15,244 --> 00:25:18,361
- Yes, yes.
- They brought it over the mountains

242
00:25:18,524 --> 00:25:22,199
after the destruction
during the Cultural Revolution.

243
00:25:22,364 --> 00:25:24,514
It's very heavy.

244
00:25:24,684 --> 00:25:28,802
Wow! It's absolutely amazing. Just look at that.

245
00:25:28,964 --> 00:25:33,162
So this has been deliberately smashed,
deliberately broken.

246
00:25:33,324 --> 00:25:36,999
- Can the lama tell us what the image is?
- (SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE)

247
00:25:41,364 --> 00:25:45,323
- It is a Bodhisattva.
- A Bodhisattva.

248
00:25:46,444 --> 00:25:51,518
It seemed that every nook and cranny was
crammed with books and works of art

249
00:25:51,684 --> 00:25:55,233
saved from the Chinese destruction of old Tibet.

250
00:25:59,284 --> 00:26:01,673
(MICHAEL) 900 years old?

251
00:26:04,284 --> 00:26:09,483
You come to a place like this
and it's the reality of the legend.

252
00:26:09,644 --> 00:26:14,718
It's an amazing... This is like
a cultural rescue operation, isn't it?

253
00:26:14,884 --> 00:26:19,719
(TSEWANG) Exactly.
The Tibetan culture, it is living here.

254
00:26:19,884 --> 00:26:23,559
(MICHAEL) It's living here!
Just amazing, isn't it?

255
00:26:33,724 --> 00:26:37,717
The lama then took me to see
more secrets of the monastery.

256
00:26:40,284 --> 00:26:44,323
So we're going to go into the monastic bit
of these buildings.

257
00:26:44,484 --> 00:26:47,601
This is a communal area
where the dramas are done

258
00:26:47,764 --> 00:26:51,757
but this is the prayer hall of the monastery.

259
00:26:51,924 --> 00:26:57,556
For me, it was all uncannily like
a scene in Hilton's tale of Shangri-La...

260
00:26:59,684 --> 00:27:05,554
..when the lama shows Conway the library
where the wisdom of the world is preserved.

261
00:27:05,724 --> 00:27:08,238
(MICHAEL) So these are the old sutras?

262
00:27:08,404 --> 00:27:11,202
And then the lama reveals his vision,

263
00:27:11,364 --> 00:27:14,879
to save the treasures of humanity
for future generations.

264
00:27:15,044 --> 00:27:18,320
This, he says, is why Shangri-La is here.

265
00:27:20,844 --> 00:27:23,483
(MICHAEL) Wow! God, this is amazing.

266
00:27:23,644 --> 00:27:26,602
(SPEAKING OWN LANGUAGE)

267
00:27:33,084 --> 00:27:35,359
He has heard about Shambala,

268
00:27:35,524 --> 00:27:40,757
- that it exists in a remote area, people living...
- Yeah.

269
00:27:40,924 --> 00:27:42,994
He has heard about this.

270
00:27:43,164 --> 00:27:48,192
So does he think Shambala is a real place
or is it place of the spirit?

271
00:28:00,924 --> 00:28:03,882
- It really exists.
- It really exists!

272
00:28:04,044 --> 00:28:08,276
- There is a text that describes it.
- Fantastic. It really exists.

273
00:28:30,404 --> 00:28:36,036
From Jhang, we joined a caravan of yak herders
heading towards Tibet,

274
00:28:36,204 --> 00:28:40,436
hoping that we'd get through
before the snows came.

275
00:28:44,964 --> 00:28:46,682
(WOMAN SHOUTING)

276
00:28:48,164 --> 00:28:54,558
And I found myself musing on how
the visions of myth find their echoes in history,

277
00:28:54,724 --> 00:29:00,037
how ancient stories can still shadow
our modern hopes and dreams.

278
00:29:09,444 --> 00:29:14,234
Later that day, we were met by an honour guard
sent by the next village.

279
00:29:18,004 --> 00:29:20,802
- Hello!
- (DRUMS BANG)

280
00:29:28,644 --> 00:29:31,204
Very nice to meet you! Hello!

281
00:29:39,804 --> 00:29:42,318
(HARNESS BELLS JINGLE)

282
00:29:56,604 --> 00:29:58,754
(DRUM BEATING)

283
00:30:09,044 --> 00:30:12,161
Well, just look at that. Isn't that stupendous?

284
00:30:12,324 --> 00:30:16,112
It's completely... A hidden valley. Look at it.

285
00:30:41,164 --> 00:30:42,483
Hello.

286
00:30:42,644 --> 00:30:45,841
And so we arrived at the monastery of Halji.

287
00:30:47,564 --> 00:30:52,684
Halji was founded from Toling,
the mother monastery, in the 10th century,

288
00:30:52,844 --> 00:30:56,041
the very time when the legend first appears.

289
00:30:56,924 --> 00:31:01,076
- Welcome to you!
- (DRUMS AND CYMBALS BEAT)

290
00:31:04,284 --> 00:31:10,234
So if there was a real Shangri-La,
this place is its living descendant.

291
00:31:27,004 --> 00:31:33,716
You can't believe that things like this still survive
in the 21st century. It's unbelievable.

292
00:31:33,884 --> 00:31:38,719
It can only have survived
because of its total isolation, can't it?

293
00:31:41,844 --> 00:31:44,074
(CHANTING)

294
00:32:01,444 --> 00:32:06,677
In the past, different worlds,
different conceptions of time and space,

295
00:32:06,844 --> 00:32:09,995
could live side by side on our earth.

296
00:32:10,164 --> 00:32:12,439
But not any more.

297
00:32:12,604 --> 00:32:17,359
We're modern people now,
we've had our revolutions and our reformations

298
00:32:17,524 --> 00:32:21,915
and now time races in one line,
headlong forward,

299
00:32:22,084 --> 00:32:25,554
past recedes from us ever faster

300
00:32:25,724 --> 00:32:30,240
and we think we've freed ourselves
from the great circle of time.

301
00:32:34,764 --> 00:32:37,642
We're one world now, even here.

302
00:32:37,804 --> 00:32:40,637
(MEN CONVERSING IN OWN LANGUAGE)

303
00:32:50,044 --> 00:32:53,753
They are demanding electricity,
micro-hydro, phone...

304
00:32:53,924 --> 00:32:58,122
We will take the message back, yeah?
Yeah. Yeah.

305
00:32:58,284 --> 00:33:01,003
It's really interesting, isn't it?

306
00:33:01,164 --> 00:33:04,998
They absolutely want electricity
and the micro-hydro...

307
00:33:05,164 --> 00:33:08,236
- And telephone.
- And telephone.

308
00:33:20,524 --> 00:33:24,483
0ur journey led us higher now,
into a cold, bleak zone,

309
00:33:24,644 --> 00:33:27,920
where even in the sun
we were chilled to the bone.

310
00:33:31,284 --> 00:33:33,434
(MAN SHOUTING ENCOURAGEMENT)

311
00:33:39,204 --> 00:33:43,880
These are valleys where hermits come
to commune with the spirits

312
00:33:44,044 --> 00:33:47,400
and to seek their own kind of immortality.

313
00:34:01,284 --> 00:34:03,752
(PLAINTIVE CRY)

314
00:34:11,284 --> 00:34:13,957
Hello. Thank you.

315
00:34:14,124 --> 00:34:16,877
Hello.

316
00:34:17,044 --> 00:34:19,035
(MICHAEL) God!

317
00:34:20,484 --> 00:34:22,202
What an incredible place!

318
00:34:22,364 --> 00:34:24,355
Absolutely amazing place.

319
00:34:25,444 --> 00:34:28,641
We're more than 4,000 metres here
and look at...

320
00:34:28,804 --> 00:34:34,436
You're into this border zone of
the sacred geography of the subcontinent of India.

321
00:34:34,604 --> 00:34:37,164
There's monks in these caves out there!

322
00:34:37,324 --> 00:34:42,352
This is where their gurus come out
to the wildest caves in the Himalayas.

323
00:34:42,524 --> 00:34:48,042
And there, if you look over there
at these great, black teeth,

324
00:34:48,204 --> 00:34:51,037
6,500 metres, more than 21,000 feet, those,

325
00:34:51,204 --> 00:34:55,243
and behind them, Gurla Mandhata, 25,000 feet,

326
00:34:55,404 --> 00:34:58,874
and Kailash just beyond there, that's Tibet there.

327
00:34:59,044 --> 00:35:04,676
We're right on the very edge of the zone
where human beings have ever lived.

328
00:35:09,244 --> 00:35:12,042
- What's this?
- Chang. You want to take?

329
00:35:12,204 --> 00:35:15,480
- Will it be good?
- If you have the stomach...

330
00:35:15,644 --> 00:35:19,034
- The water is very pure.
- The water will be good.

331
00:35:19,204 --> 00:35:22,833
- Your good health. Holy water.
- Manasarovar water.

332
00:35:25,284 --> 00:35:31,120
Chang is home-made barley beer.
It's served cold out of old plastic jerry cans.

333
00:35:31,284 --> 00:35:37,996
It's not very appetising on a chill grey afternoon
and it's not a very good idea at this altitude.

334
00:35:49,124 --> 00:35:53,720
Til is the village at the end of world,
desperately poor and isolated.

335
00:35:53,884 --> 00:35:59,880
But its people still see hospitality
as a sacred duty and a real pleasure.

336
00:36:06,324 --> 00:36:10,715
(GREETINGS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE)

337
00:36:16,964 --> 00:36:18,875
Ah!

338
00:36:20,844 --> 00:36:23,233
Ah, fantastic. Thank you very much.

339
00:36:23,404 --> 00:36:25,520
- (MAN) Ah!
- Thank you.

340
00:36:40,884 --> 00:36:42,840
We'd got here just in time.

341
00:36:43,004 --> 00:36:48,761
In a few days, the snow will fall
and Til will be cut off for the next five months.

342
00:36:58,764 --> 00:37:04,361
That evening, we paid our respects
to the legendary abbot of Til.

343
00:37:08,284 --> 00:37:13,995
He's famous for having practised incredible
austerities, meditating for years on end.

344
00:37:14,164 --> 00:37:17,236
That's why he's so revered, he's like a saint.

345
00:37:17,404 --> 00:37:19,281
Thank you very much.

346
00:37:19,444 --> 00:37:23,357
(LAUGHTER AND CHATTER)

347
00:37:23,524 --> 00:37:26,436
(SHRILL SINGING)

348
00:37:26,604 --> 00:37:31,394
Duty done, it was drinks all round
and time for party games.

349
00:37:34,004 --> 00:37:37,155
And in Til, that means tug of war.

350
00:37:38,764 --> 00:37:41,232
Am I all right with my woolly hat?

351
00:37:42,004 --> 00:37:46,316
The girls challenge the boys,
guests included, of course.

352
00:37:48,684 --> 00:37:52,723
All under the eye of the great lama himself.

353
00:37:52,884 --> 00:37:54,920
(DRUM BEATING)

354
00:37:57,444 --> 00:37:59,594
(CROWD CHEERING)

355
00:38:02,444 --> 00:38:04,958
I didn't think I was going to do that!

356
00:38:07,444 --> 00:38:11,517
- (MICHAEL) Come on, next challenger!
- (CHEERING)

357
00:38:11,684 --> 00:38:15,393
- (VOICES ECHO AND DISTORT)
- Thank you, thank you.

358
00:38:20,204 --> 00:38:25,676
By now, with the altitude and all that chang,
my mind was swimming.

359
00:38:28,284 --> 00:38:32,914
But the abbot's serene consciousness
never wavered.

360
00:38:33,764 --> 00:38:36,995
(DRUM BEATS OUT RHYTHM)

361
00:38:53,524 --> 00:38:57,153
Next morning,
while the men slept off their hangovers,

362
00:38:57,324 --> 00:39:01,954
the women saddled up our horses
and sent us on our way.

363
00:39:09,044 --> 00:39:13,515
'Just follow the path all the way to China, ''
they said.

364
00:39:14,884 --> 00:39:16,875
''You can't miss it. ''

365
00:39:23,964 --> 00:39:28,116
All day the path went up and down
and up and down.

366
00:39:28,284 --> 00:39:31,242
Soon every step was an effort.

367
00:39:34,804 --> 00:39:39,798
But it must've been much worse
for the first seeker, the Jesuit Andrade,

368
00:39:39,964 --> 00:39:43,923
sick and snow-blind, in agonies of frostbite.

369
00:39:45,724 --> 00:39:48,716
''It took us 20 days to get into Tibet,'' he says,

370
00:39:48,884 --> 00:39:53,480
''because ranges of terrible mountains
blocked the way.

371
00:39:53,644 --> 00:39:58,672
''Every day around four o'clock,
the snow came in,'' he says,

372
00:39:58,844 --> 00:40:01,995
''and we lost all feeling in our hands and feet.

373
00:40:02,164 --> 00:40:08,034
''There was no firewood and worst of all,''
Andrade writes, ''was the biting wind.''

374
00:40:45,484 --> 00:40:50,956
The only food they got in the mountains, he says,
was roast barley meal,

375
00:40:51,124 --> 00:40:53,001
which they mixed with water.

376
00:40:53,164 --> 00:40:56,952
That was all they had,
just like the Tibetan nomads.

377
00:40:57,124 --> 00:41:02,915
We're a bit like that ourselves tonight because
our horses have not caught up with us

378
00:41:03,084 --> 00:41:05,120
and it's already quite late.

379
00:41:05,284 --> 00:41:10,119
Our sleeping bags and our food
and pretty much everything is with them,

380
00:41:10,284 --> 00:41:13,833
so we're going to have
a cold and hungry night.

381
00:41:24,564 --> 00:41:26,680
It's sort of chewy and tasteless

382
00:41:26,844 --> 00:41:32,714
but if you're stuck on the edge of Tibet,
it's subzero and the snow's starting...

383
00:41:33,684 --> 00:41:35,037
it's OK.

384
00:41:40,004 --> 00:41:45,522
One day, greed and ignorance will lay waste
to the earth itself

385
00:41:45,684 --> 00:41:52,362
and an evil king will triumph
and spread his power over all human kind.

386
00:41:52,524 --> 00:41:56,403
But just when it seems
there is nothing left to conquer,

387
00:41:56,564 --> 00:42:02,514
the mists will lift to reveal the icy mountains
of Shambala.

388
00:42:02,684 --> 00:42:08,395
Then the king of Shambala will ride out
and overthrow the forces of evil...

389
00:42:08,884 --> 00:42:13,275
..and wisdom will at last be enthroned on earth.

390
00:42:30,884 --> 00:42:32,522
(MAN) Heh!

391
00:42:32,684 --> 00:42:37,121
But after a bitter night came an ethereal dawn.

392
00:42:44,564 --> 00:42:48,523
And what a feeling it was
to be on top of the world.

393
00:43:18,124 --> 00:43:23,437
At last, we saw what must be
one of the loneliest border posts in the world,

394
00:43:23,604 --> 00:43:26,721
the crossing into western Tibet.

395
00:43:29,244 --> 00:43:31,235
(INAUDIBLE)

396
00:43:34,244 --> 00:43:36,758
..most wonderful, wonderful...

397
00:43:37,844 --> 00:43:42,520
0ur plan was to cross the high plateau
of Tibet behind the Himalayas,

398
00:43:42,684 --> 00:43:47,553
to rejoin the route taken by Andrade
on his journey from India.

399
00:43:47,724 --> 00:43:53,594
(MICHAEL) It feels even better when you've
nearly killed yourself climbing those passes!

400
00:44:02,884 --> 00:44:07,514
And now we entered
the most mythic landscape on earth.

401
00:44:09,204 --> 00:44:13,720
A world teeming with sacred peaks,
lakes and rivers.

402
00:44:19,084 --> 00:44:24,681
At its centre, the eerie white pyramid
of the holy mountain, Kailash.

403
00:44:29,044 --> 00:44:35,153
A mirror of the crystal peak in
the ancient legends and the tale of Shangri-La.

404
00:44:49,004 --> 00:44:52,440
But for us, paradise was here and now,

405
00:44:52,604 --> 00:44:56,483
a real bed for the night.

406
00:44:56,644 --> 00:44:58,521
Oh, really? (LAUGHS)

407
00:45:19,604 --> 00:45:22,562
This is Lake Manasarovar.

408
00:45:26,804 --> 00:45:32,003
In Indian myth, along with Kailash,
the lake is the centre of the world.

409
00:45:34,284 --> 00:45:38,641
According to Tibetan legend,
the lake is a gateway of the spirits.

410
00:45:40,364 --> 00:45:43,242
The sound of the ice squeaking and breaking

411
00:45:43,404 --> 00:45:47,238
is the noise of demons
rising from the underworld.

412
00:46:15,804 --> 00:46:19,240
As night fell, the myth became real for me.

413
00:46:19,404 --> 00:46:24,319
It may be freezing and barren here,
not paradise as you might imagine it,

414
00:46:24,484 --> 00:46:26,839
but it is heaven on earth.

415
00:46:40,804 --> 00:46:46,481
When the god Siva married
his great love Parvati, daughter of the snows,

416
00:46:46,644 --> 00:46:51,672
he said to her, ''Where shall we fly
to enjoy our wedding night?

417
00:46:51,844 --> 00:46:56,554
''I can take you wherever you desire,
anywhere in the universe.''

418
00:46:57,644 --> 00:47:02,843
And Parvati replied,
''Thank you for your generosity, my lord.

419
00:47:03,004 --> 00:47:06,440
''Your power and wisdom are known to everyone.

420
00:47:06,604 --> 00:47:11,598
''But if you come with me,
I can take you to paradise.''

421
00:47:12,404 --> 00:47:17,797
And that night, she took him
to the crystal mountain by the sacred lake,

422
00:47:17,964 --> 00:47:23,038
where wild animals are tame
in the presence of holy saints and sages.

423
00:47:23,204 --> 00:47:30,474
She took him to Mount Kailash, saying,
''This is the only true paradise on earth.''

424
00:47:30,644 --> 00:47:34,273
And there, they first made love.

425
00:47:52,604 --> 00:47:56,882
In the West, we've completely lost the idea
of a sacred landscape,

426
00:47:57,044 --> 00:48:02,164
but across Asia it's one of
the most important religious ideas.

427
00:48:02,324 --> 00:48:05,714
And we're about to reach the holiest place of all.

428
00:48:08,964 --> 00:48:15,312
Everest may be higher, but in the mythic stakes
Kailash reigns supreme.

429
00:48:19,084 --> 00:48:22,042
To climb it would be sacrilege.

430
00:48:22,204 --> 00:48:26,994
You set off from the great flagpole
and you walk 30 miles round its base,

431
00:48:27,164 --> 00:48:29,917
prostrating yourself as you go.

432
00:48:32,364 --> 00:48:37,597
This is set up on the full moon of each May/June
to begin the pilgrimage season

433
00:48:37,764 --> 00:48:41,313
when thousands of people
do the circuit of the mountain

434
00:48:41,484 --> 00:48:45,079
in the belief that this is the axis of the universe.

435
00:48:45,244 --> 00:48:50,159
And it's not such a crazy idea
because in this tiny area of western Tibet

436
00:48:50,324 --> 00:48:55,956
four of the great rivers of Asia rise:
the Indus, the Brahmaputra, the Sutlej

437
00:48:56,124 --> 00:49:00,561
and the Karnali, which feeds the Ganges,
the holiest river of India.

438
00:49:00,724 --> 00:49:05,354
If anywhere's a sacred place on this earth,
then this surely is.

439
00:49:16,724 --> 00:49:22,003
The pilgrims' reward is a bath
in the hot springs of Tirthapuri.

440
00:49:27,124 --> 00:49:29,035
Ah!

441
00:49:30,204 --> 00:49:32,115
(LAUGHS)

442
00:49:32,284 --> 00:49:35,242
This is what I call pilgrimage!

443
00:49:36,164 --> 00:49:38,439
Bloody hell. (SIGHS)

444
00:49:40,884 --> 00:49:42,442
(LAUGHTER)

445
00:49:45,844 --> 00:49:51,760
After 250 miles on dirt tracks,
we finally came out behind the Himalayas

446
00:49:51,924 --> 00:49:56,873
at the point where Andrade crossed into Tibet
nearly 400 years ago.

447
00:49:59,044 --> 00:50:03,993
That's India over there.
In the middle, the great pyramid of Nanda Devi

448
00:50:04,164 --> 00:50:08,396
and just to the right,
the cluster of Indian sacred peaks,

449
00:50:08,564 --> 00:50:11,397
Joshimath, Badrinath, Gangotri

450
00:50:11,564 --> 00:50:14,317
and the Mana Pass, just there.

451
00:50:18,484 --> 00:50:23,319
Andrade was met by mysterious ambassadors,
who gave him horses

452
00:50:23,484 --> 00:50:28,842
and led him down
into a vast labyrinth of canyons.

453
00:50:33,204 --> 00:50:37,755
And for us, now, there was
an almost electric feeling of anticipation.

454
00:50:37,924 --> 00:50:44,602
0nly a handful of outsiders have seen this
since Andrade arrived here in 1624.

455
00:50:45,684 --> 00:50:48,642
A city, literally built out of a mountain.

456
00:50:59,124 --> 00:51:03,356
''The people came into the streets
and women crowded the balconies

457
00:51:03,524 --> 00:51:08,279
''to see us strange creatures,
like people from another world.''

458
00:51:08,444 --> 00:51:13,154
They were the first Europeans to cross
the Himalayas and make contact

459
00:51:13,324 --> 00:51:15,633
with the ancient civilization of Tibet.

460
00:51:22,884 --> 00:51:26,513
So these are the two monasteries,
the white and the red?

461
00:51:26,684 --> 00:51:29,482
The white temple and the red temple.

462
00:51:29,644 --> 00:51:35,719
But this wasn't the lost Christian civilization
the Europeans had expected to find.

463
00:51:35,884 --> 00:51:41,117
What they discovered was Tsaparang,
the capital of the Buddhist kingdom of Guge,

464
00:51:41,284 --> 00:51:47,632
founded in the 9th century,
just before the legend of Shambala first appears.

465
00:51:52,604 --> 00:51:55,880
As you climb
and you look at this hidden valley,

466
00:51:56,044 --> 00:51:59,719
hidden from the rest of the world
until the 17th century,

467
00:51:59,884 --> 00:52:06,198
you really begin to understand
how a legend could've arisen.

468
00:52:12,764 --> 00:52:18,521
From the beginning, the city had been intended
by its builders to be a hidden place.

469
00:52:20,884 --> 00:52:26,083
1,000 years ago,
when Tibet was torn apart by civil war,

470
00:52:26,244 --> 00:52:31,079
the city was created by a branch
of the Tibetan royal family as a refuge,

471
00:52:31,244 --> 00:52:37,353
set apart from the outside world, where its
Buddhist rulers could follow the Wheel of Law

472
00:52:37,524 --> 00:52:40,357
unharmed by the revolutions of history.

473
00:52:46,084 --> 00:52:48,723
God! Have you seen this?

474
00:52:57,204 --> 00:53:01,914
So this is the King of Guge's private chambers.

475
00:53:03,084 --> 00:53:06,679
And er...just come and have a look at the view

476
00:53:06,844 --> 00:53:09,119
that the king enjoyed.

477
00:53:10,484 --> 00:53:12,281
How about that?

478
00:53:18,924 --> 00:53:26,239
In 1624, this was a network of sparkling canals
between green fields and fruit orchards,

479
00:53:26,404 --> 00:53:28,554
a garden in the desert,

480
00:53:28,724 --> 00:53:30,237
paradise.

481
00:53:31,484 --> 00:53:38,401
Its rulers so open to the newcomers that they
let them build a church and preach Christianity.

482
00:53:40,604 --> 00:53:46,554
But as so often in history, the arrival
of the Europeans was the beginning of the end.

483
00:53:47,964 --> 00:53:52,480
The neighbouring rulers of Ladakh were angry
that the Christians had been let in

484
00:53:52,644 --> 00:53:55,602
and they made war on the King of Tsaparang.

485
00:53:57,484 --> 00:54:01,796
In 1685, the city
was finally sieged and destroyed.

486
00:54:03,444 --> 00:54:05,036
(STRAINING)

487
00:54:05,204 --> 00:54:09,402
Its royal family, men, women and children,
were beheaded.

488
00:54:14,604 --> 00:54:17,243
Their bodies were dumped in this cave.

489
00:54:17,404 --> 00:54:19,599
There's a chamber here

490
00:54:19,764 --> 00:54:22,324
and there's an inner chamber.

491
00:54:22,484 --> 00:54:25,476
Bones, cloth...

492
00:54:25,644 --> 00:54:28,636
Preserved in the dry air, they're still here

493
00:54:28,804 --> 00:54:30,954
and still smell.

494
00:54:33,564 --> 00:54:37,193
These are the remains
of the bodies of the royal family,

495
00:54:37,364 --> 00:54:43,712
the king and queen and the children, ministers
and generals of the last king of the Guge.

496
00:54:50,644 --> 00:54:54,080
But that's not the end of the story.

497
00:54:54,244 --> 00:54:59,477
Tsaparang's temples, among the most beautiful
in all of Asia, weren't destroyed.

498
00:55:00,524 --> 00:55:04,642
A handful of local families and monks
continued to tend them

499
00:55:04,804 --> 00:55:07,921
and they lasted almost to our own time.

500
00:55:10,644 --> 00:55:15,843
So all these figures survived
until the 1960s, then, did they?

501
00:55:16,004 --> 00:55:21,124
- Destroyed in the Cultural Revolution.
- It's heartbreaking, isn't it?

502
00:55:21,284 --> 00:55:23,798
Er...

503
00:55:23,964 --> 00:55:27,843
- You're not allowed inside, I'm afraid, Sean.
- OK.

504
00:55:28,004 --> 00:55:31,440
- Sorry.
- Is this OK?

505
00:55:32,164 --> 00:55:36,680
In the Chinese Cultural Revolution,
with its rage against religion,

506
00:55:36,844 --> 00:55:39,517
these wonderful things were smashed.

507
00:55:39,684 --> 00:55:46,442
The Chinese regret it now but what remains
is just a fleeting glimpse of a lost world.

508
00:55:49,044 --> 00:55:52,241
(MICHAEL) And date of temple?
What, 15th century?

509
00:55:52,404 --> 00:55:54,793
And the meaning of the myth?

510
00:55:54,964 --> 00:55:58,673
The Tibetans say that each of us
can live in Shangri-La

511
00:55:58,844 --> 00:56:01,642
if we can only conquer the restless need

512
00:56:01,804 --> 00:56:05,877
that makes us dream of paradise
in worlds other than our own.

513
00:56:07,764 --> 00:56:10,881
James Hilton imagined Shangri-La here in Tibet

514
00:56:11,044 --> 00:56:16,994
but if you ask me, paradise can be found
anywhere on this earth

515
00:56:17,164 --> 00:56:19,473
but only on this earth.

516
00:56:19,644 --> 00:56:24,035
And it's in our hands whether we make it
or destroy it.

517
00:56:35,324 --> 00:56:40,318
When he left Shangri-La, Conway felt
the surge of darkness around him,

518
00:56:40,484 --> 00:56:45,000
as if the world outside
were already brewing for the storm.

519
00:56:45,604 --> 00:56:48,323
''We have a dream, '' the lama had told him.

520
00:56:48,484 --> 00:56:52,602
''Even the most beautiful things
are transient and perishable.

521
00:56:52,764 --> 00:56:57,758
''War, lust and brutality will crush them
till nothing is left.

522
00:56:57,924 --> 00:57:00,836
''That is why Shangri-La is here.

523
00:57:01,004 --> 00:57:06,715
''To preserve the wisdom men will need
when their violent passions are spent. ''

524
00:57:41,204 --> 00:57:44,401
0ur journey was over.

525
00:57:44,564 --> 00:57:48,193
A few days later,
we crossed from Tibet into Nepal

526
00:57:48,364 --> 00:57:52,118
and were taken back...to our world.

