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Water:
Hundreds of thousands of tons of it,

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lying frozen on the world's mountains.

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It covers not only the poles,
but caps great peaks on the equator.

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Water molecules, distilled from the sea
by the sun's heat, condense in the sky.

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As they fall through the air,
they pack together into shapes

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that echo their six-fold symmetry
and form infinitely varied crystals of ice.

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They settle on the high mountains
and compact into snow and ice

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that is, chemically, almost pure water,

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much purer than the sea from which it came.

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On Mount Rainier in the United States,

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permanent snow begins at 7,000 feet.

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You might think that this was one of
the most inhospitable places on earth for life.

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After all, no vegetation grows
on these snowfields,

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so there can be no animals that feed on it,
like marmots or mice or rabbits,

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and if there are no herbivores, there can't be
any predators like hawks or weasels.

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But in fact,
there is a surprising amount of life here.

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There is some life
actually within this snowfield itself,

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because this snow is not white, but red.

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The colour comes from microscopic plants:
Algae.

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The redness is produced
by light reflected from their cell walls,

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and is almost invisible when,
under the microscope, light shines through them.

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Internally, they're green with chlorophyll.

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With its aid, they convert
carbon dioxide and water into sugars.

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These, and the minerals
dissolved in the melt water,

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are all the algae need to grow and reproduce.

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The winter snow will bury them feet deep,

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but in spring, when the surface melts,
they divide, develop tiny beating hairs

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and swim up towards the sunshine.

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As they age and the minerals are used up,
they change colour,

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forming huge smears of red
in snowfields all over the world.

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Eventually, the snow algae produce spores
as fine as dust

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and in that form they are blown
from one snowfield to another.

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But other, bigger animals,
also brought up by the wind,

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blow across the snows of Mount Rainier.

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Ladybirds. Thousands of them.

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Nobody knows why they come up
in such numbers and assemble like this.

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But in late summer they fly up from the valleys
up to these high peaks

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and here assemble in the rocks.

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When the winter snows come, the ladybirds
remain underneath the snow in the rocks,

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and then in the spring, as now,
the snow melts and the sun warms the ladybirds,

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and they become active
and fly off back to the valley to feed on aphids.

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The ladybirds are only temporary residents
of the Mount Rainier snowfields.

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Other insects manage, almost unbelievably,

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to live all their lives
in this seemingly inhospitable snow.

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The best time to find them is at night.

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A whole community lives here,

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feeding on pollen grains and the bodies
of dead insects blown up on the wind.

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Some, like this primitive relation
of the cockroach, a grylloblattid,

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have a body chemistry
so well adjusted to low temperatures

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that if you pick them up,
your hand's warmth will kill them.

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Permanent snow lies directly on bare rock,

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but lower down, where it comes and goes,
there can be a little vegetation to be grazed.

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Mountain sheep. These on Mount McKinley
are the kind known as Dall Sheep.

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Little ground squirrels live up here too.

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Unlike the sheep,
which retreat to lower altitudes in winter,

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the squirrels are permanent residents,

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insulated in their burrows from the frosts
by the cover of snow.

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There are sheep like these in mountains
all through North America, Asia and Europe.

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All carry big horns,
and the senior males, in autumn,

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indulge in the most alarming courtship battles.

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It's hard for plants to grow on steep, high slopes

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The warming by day and freezing by night
makes the gravelly soil slip downwards,

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so it's difficult for plants to keep a hold.

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With few plants, grazing animals are rare,

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though there may be more
than there appear to be at first sight.

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These, in the Himalayas, are blue sheep,

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so nimble and sure-footed they can reach
almost any vegetation on the steep slopes.

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But if these are rare, rarer still is the animal
that preys on them, the snow leopard.

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In summer it stays
at between 12,000 and 15,000 feet,

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hunting small rodents and birds
as well as mountain sheep.

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Snow leopards have been seen
as high as 18,000 feet in summer.

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But with winter's heavy snowfalls,
it retreats to the valleys.

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Game is now so scarce that there's barely
enough to support more than one leopard,

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so this animal hunts alone.

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Its thick, dense fur is now paler.

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It has a thick, woolly undercoat
and cushions of hair under its paws

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which prevent it from sinking in the snow.

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The mountains of Africa, although so near
the equator, are permanently snow-capped.

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Kilimanjaro, 19,000 feet high, is a volcano.

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Mount Kenya, also volcanic,
is 2,000 feet lower but still has its own glaciers

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Each has its own animals and plants

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specially adapted to life at low temperatures.

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Here, at about 13,000 feet,
grow some most beautiful and dramatic plants:

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Giant groundsels and giant lobelias.

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At these altitudes, plants like these

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have to face two totally conflicting problems
every 24 hours.

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Every night the temperature falls so low
that they're in danger of freezing solid.

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And every day the sun beats down so strongly
in this very thin air

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that it threatens to rob them of their moisture
by evaporation.

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But look how this lobelia
deals with those problems.

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This little pond of water in the leaf rosette
freezes over every night,

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and this shield of ice
prevents the water beneath from freezing,

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so that it acts as a liquid jacket, preventing
the frost from reaching the heart of the plant.

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But as the day wears on and it gets warmer,
this water is in danger of evaporating

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and the plant of losing
its night-time insulation.

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But it isn'tjust rainwater
that's accumulated in this rosette.

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It's been secreted by the plant itself
and it's slightly slimy.

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It contains pectin, a colloidal substance
which greatly reduces evaporation.

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But there's another kind of lobelia

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which deals with these two problems
in a quite different way.

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This one grows very tall
and has extremely long leaves,

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each fringed with tiny hairs
which act like an animal's fur,

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trapping air between them,
insulating the stem from chills.

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They also prevent the wind
from robbing the plants of moisture.

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Each group of lobelias
is owned by a pair of sunbirds

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which collect the insects the plants attract.

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They keep themselves warm
with fluffed-up feathers.

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And among the rocks are hyrax.

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The reason these little creatures are so tame
and I can get so close to them

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is just because they're living so high up.

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Up here, there are few creatures to prey on them.

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An occasional leopard may come up
and hunt them, but apart from that, nothing.

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And so they can come out
during the few brief hours of sunshine

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and bask on the rocks without any fear,

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just as they're doing now.

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Hyrax also live down on the hot plains below,

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but these, in response to the cold,
have developed particularly long fur.

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Despite their shape,
they often climb trees to crop leaves.

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But at these altitudes,
there's only grass and lobelias,

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and they share it with the little furry-eared rat.

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Mount Kenya, like its neighbours
Kilimanjaro and Ruwenzori,

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is an isolated patch of snow and ice
surrounded by the baking hot African plains.

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But the great mountains of South America,

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like Cotopaxi, 19,000 feet high, are very differen

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These volcanoes, some active, some dormant,
are not isolated peaks

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but part of a continuous range
that runs the length of the continent

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and is surrounded
by the high, cold plains of the altiplano,

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so their flanks support
a large and varied population of animals,

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all adapted to life
at high altitudes and low temperatures.

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Here lives a wild South American camel,
the vicuna.

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Its coat is fine, silky
and protected so well from the cold,

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that it has, paradoxically,
led to its near-extinction.

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Men have recognised that vicuna wool
has an unexcelled softness and warmth

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and hunted the animal for it
until it's close to extinction.

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The people of the Andes have domesticated
another wild camel, the guanaco,

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to produce heavy-fleeced versions
which produce excellent wool

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and serve as beasts of burden.

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Here, in Ecuador and Peru, near the equator,
wild camels live at around 14,000 feet.

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But as you travel south down the Andes,
the snowline gets lower.

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Half-way down,
2,000 miles south of Cotopaxi,

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the line of permanent snow
has dropped from 16,000 feet to 13,000 feet.

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A thousand miles farther south still,
the mountains are not so high

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but are almost completely covered with snow,
to within a few hundred feet of the sea.

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So, on the southernmost tip of South America,
in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego,

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the guanaco doesn't live at great altitudes,
but almost at sea level.

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Yet it needs its warm coatjust as much,
for here, even in summer, it's very cold,

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and during the winter
the whole land is snowbound.

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The reason it gets colder nearer the pole
is not complicated.

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The sun's rays strike the earth
at the equator at right angles.

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But as you travel round the earth,

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the rays become more and more glancing.

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So a given amount of heat falling on the equator

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is distributed over a much greater area
in the polar regions

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and has to travel through more of the earth's
atmosphere, which weakens it still further.

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So down in Patagonia, the sun's rays are
very much less intense and carry much less heat,

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and the glaciers flow right down to the sea.

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Farther south still,
across the near-frozen seas off Cape Horn,

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you reach chains of small volcanic islands

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that run down towards
the Antarctic continent itself:

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Remote, little-known archipelagos

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such as the South Sandwich
and, here, the South Orkneys.

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There are only two flowering plants that can
manage to survive in this bleak, icy country.

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One is a kind of thrift
and the other is a small, stunted grass.

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And apparently,
no land-living animals of any kind.

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But when the snows melt in summer,
they reveal that the rocks and the boulders

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are covered with over 100
different kinds of mosses and lichens,

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some of them rounded green cushions,
others like miniature trees.

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The capacity of these simple plants
to endure cold is phenomenal.

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Some species can even survive
being frozen solid for weeks on end.

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Within this miniature tangled jungle
lives a whole menagerie of tiny animals.

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Primitive creatures
little bigger than pinheads

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manage to survive by slowly chewing away
at the lichens and mosses during summer.

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In winter they almost grind to a halt,

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yet they survive unfrozen
because their blood contains a kind of antifreeze

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and remains liquid
even when the temperature falls well below zero.

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The majority are vegetarians,
but there are also carnivorous mites among them

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which clamber around the grazing herds,

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picking off individuals as they fancy.

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00:18:33,712 --> 00:18:37,705
In this extreme cold,
the processes of life are greatly slowed down,

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not only those of growth,
but those that lead to old age and death.

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So such tiny creatures,
which elsewhere might live for merely months,

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survive for two or three years
within the green mossy carpets.

183
00:18:53,732 --> 00:18:57,668
The seas around these Antarctic islands
are strewn with ice.

184
00:18:58,137 --> 00:19:01,265
The pack ice that litters the surface
is frozen sea water,

185
00:19:01,440 --> 00:19:04,204
and in winter forms a solid cover to the sea.

186
00:19:04,543 --> 00:19:06,272
The icebergs are different.

187
00:19:06,445 --> 00:19:11,280
They're made of fresh water and have
broken away from glaciers flowing into the sea.

188
00:19:13,485 --> 00:19:17,581
This is the source of those bergs:
The edge of a glacier.

189
00:19:18,557 --> 00:19:22,118
Beyond it, the continent of Antarctica.

190
00:19:23,428 --> 00:19:25,896
It's huge, bigger than the whole of Europe,

191
00:19:26,064 --> 00:19:29,932
and, for the most part,
it seems totally devoid of life.

192
00:19:32,938 --> 00:19:36,135
But not all of Antarctica is snow-covered.

193
00:19:36,375 --> 00:19:41,836
In parts of the interior there are valleys
where almost no snow ever falls.

194
00:19:43,182 --> 00:19:46,709
This is as desolate a part of the earth as exists.

195
00:19:47,119 --> 00:19:51,419
The cold is extreme,
it's drier even than the centre of the Sahara,

196
00:19:51,590 --> 00:19:54,115
it's dark for half the year

197
00:19:54,293 --> 00:19:58,525
and it's scoured by a never-ending howling wind.

198
00:19:59,731 --> 00:20:03,258
And the wind is responsible
for these carvings in the solid granite.

199
00:20:03,635 --> 00:20:07,127
Crystals of salt
form beneath tiny flakes on the surface,

200
00:20:07,306 --> 00:20:12,175
and grow slowly, but so powerfully
that particles are broken loose.

201
00:20:12,444 --> 00:20:17,677
The wind then sweeps them up and hurls them
at the rock face, eroding it still further.

202
00:20:21,987 --> 00:20:26,924
Desolate though this waste of shattered rocks
may seem, there is life even here.

203
00:20:35,167 --> 00:20:39,194
Algae. Beneath the stone,
the wind doesn't dry it out,

204
00:20:39,371 --> 00:20:41,635
and it's protected from the cold.

205
00:20:42,140 --> 00:20:46,509
It gets the light it needs to grow
through the translucent rock.

206
00:20:52,618 --> 00:20:55,712
There are also green patches
actually within the rock.

207
00:20:56,054 --> 00:21:00,457
Algae have penetrated the microscopic spaces
between the rock's constituent particles

208
00:21:00,626 --> 00:21:02,719
and there managed to grow.

209
00:21:05,230 --> 00:21:07,391
Glaciers flow down these dry valleys,

210
00:21:07,566 --> 00:21:11,229
fed by the ice cap
covering the continent's centre.

211
00:21:11,570 --> 00:21:17,907
They're among the world's fastest moving,
advancing as much as 300 feet in a year.

212
00:21:18,277 --> 00:21:24,045
As they surge downwards,
their surface is torn into thousands of crevasses.

213
00:21:39,564 --> 00:21:42,533
During the summer,
even though the winds are bitterly cold,

214
00:21:42,701 --> 00:21:46,865
the sun is sufficiently strong
to melt a little of the glacier's surface.

215
00:21:48,874 --> 00:21:52,901
Where it accumulates in pools,
blue-green algae grows vigorously,

216
00:21:53,078 --> 00:21:57,947
its dark colour enabling it to absorb
a high proportion of the sun's feeble heat.

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00:22:02,154 --> 00:22:06,887
These pools and streams are the only places
in all of Antarctica's interior

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00:22:07,059 --> 00:22:09,425
where life flourishes in any abundance.

219
00:22:11,063 --> 00:22:14,191
The earth, at the beginning of the history of life

220
00:22:14,366 --> 00:22:17,426
before any higher plants
or any animals had appeared,

221
00:22:17,602 --> 00:22:20,332
must have looked something like this.

222
00:22:26,178 --> 00:22:30,672
Yet here, mysteriously,
lie the corpses of large animals.

223
00:22:31,683 --> 00:22:35,084
A crab-eater seal.
It looks comparatively fresh,

224
00:22:35,253 --> 00:22:40,555
but examination of its tissues
show that it is about 300 years old.

225
00:22:41,059 --> 00:22:43,653
This extreme climate has freeze-dried it.

226
00:22:43,995 --> 00:22:46,793
It must have lost its way,
perhaps because of sickness,

227
00:22:46,965 --> 00:22:51,231
and misguidedly crawled up here
from the coast, 25 miles away.

228
00:22:53,238 --> 00:22:58,938
Although the land of the Antarctic is almost steri
its waters are extremely fertile,

229
00:22:59,311 --> 00:23:05,079
so its margins, particularly the beaches
of its off-shore islands, are rich in life.

230
00:23:14,092 --> 00:23:17,892
These fur seals in South Georgia
flourish in great numbers

231
00:23:18,063 --> 00:23:19,758
because the surface waters of the seas

232
00:23:19,931 --> 00:23:24,834
are thick with shoals of floating shrimp:
Krill, which is their main food.

233
00:23:25,470 --> 00:23:29,634
Every year they come ashore to the beaches
to pup and mate.

234
00:23:32,511 --> 00:23:38,040
They're not true seals but eared seals,
for they have small external ears.

235
00:23:38,216 --> 00:23:43,017
Their hind flippers can be brought forward,
enabling them to move quite fast on land,

236
00:23:43,188 --> 00:23:45,349
something that true seals can't do.

237
00:23:45,724 --> 00:23:50,957
These fur seals retained and thickened
the fur of their land-living ancestors,

238
00:23:51,129 --> 00:23:58,695
so that now some of these big males
have manes which give them the name sea lion.

239
00:23:59,070 --> 00:24:02,369
This fur lies in two layers.

240
00:24:02,541 --> 00:24:07,274
There's an outer guard hair
and then a thick layer close to the skin,

241
00:24:07,446 --> 00:24:14,477
and that traps air in it and keeps
the animals warm when they go swimming.

242
00:24:14,653 --> 00:24:17,121
But the trouble with fur as an insulator

243
00:24:17,289 --> 00:24:23,558
is that if you dive too deep,
water pressure squeezes out the air.

244
00:24:23,829 --> 00:24:28,664
So fur seals, for the most part,
fish in the surface waters.

245
00:24:30,535 --> 00:24:35,598
True seals, like these elephant seal pups,
have a different kind of insulation.

246
00:24:35,841 --> 00:24:37,206
Their fur is sparse,

247
00:24:37,375 --> 00:24:41,971
but beneath the skin
is a thick layer of oily fat, blubber,

248
00:24:42,147 --> 00:24:44,411
which surrounds their entire body.

249
00:24:44,716 --> 00:24:47,742
Elephant seals dive to great depths to hunt squid,

250
00:24:47,919 --> 00:24:51,878
navigating in the dark with sonar and huge eyes,

251
00:24:52,157 --> 00:24:57,094
but they don't get chilled, for pressure
has no effect on blubber's insulating qualities.

252
00:24:57,662 --> 00:25:02,929
With every year, the blubber
which kept them so warm in the freezing seas

253
00:25:03,101 --> 00:25:04,398
loses its power.

254
00:25:04,803 --> 00:25:08,432
Because every year
the sea elephants have to moult,

255
00:25:08,607 --> 00:25:15,035
and in order to grow new skin they have to
bring a blood supply close to the surface.

256
00:25:15,280 --> 00:25:17,373
Blood vessels open up through the blubber

257
00:25:17,549 --> 00:25:22,009
and the skin is flushed with blood
just below the surface.

258
00:25:22,254 --> 00:25:25,985
If they stayed in the sea like that,
they'd chill very quickly.

259
00:25:26,258 --> 00:25:28,624
But they don't. Instead...

260
00:25:31,463 --> 00:25:36,526
...they haul themselves up onto the beaches
or into mud wallows like this one.

261
00:25:36,868 --> 00:25:38,995
And there, the big old bulls like that one

262
00:25:39,170 --> 00:25:43,766
must suppress the feelings of antagonism
they felt only a few months ago

263
00:25:43,942 --> 00:25:48,538
and lie close together with their fellows
in the interests of keeping warm.

264
00:25:55,353 --> 00:25:57,821
These are the biggest of all seals.

265
00:25:58,023 --> 00:26:03,393
The huge adult males develop a bladder
on top of their noses, like a kind of trunk.

266
00:26:08,333 --> 00:26:12,861
But they also justify their name
of sea elephant by their immense size.

267
00:26:13,238 --> 00:26:17,402
The bulls may grow to 20 feet long
and weigh three tons.

268
00:26:26,551 --> 00:26:31,113
If you wanted to pick a creature
to symbolise the frozen Antarctic wastes,

269
00:26:31,289 --> 00:26:34,383
you might well choose a creature like this.

270
00:26:34,559 --> 00:26:38,120
These are macaroni penguins
on the island of South Georgia,

271
00:26:38,296 --> 00:26:41,993
halfway between the tip of South America
and the Antarctic.

272
00:26:42,400 --> 00:26:48,464
But it seems the original penguins
evolved in relatively warm climates.

273
00:26:48,640 --> 00:26:52,667
Even today, there are species of penguins
that live on the equator,

274
00:26:52,844 --> 00:26:54,436
in the Galapagos islands.

275
00:26:54,779 --> 00:26:59,045
So this dense coat of feathers
with a layer of fat beneath it

276
00:26:59,217 --> 00:27:03,654
was probably developed
to keep them warm in the seas anywhere,

277
00:27:03,822 --> 00:27:07,588
but it serves them just as well
in the freezing Antarctic winds,

278
00:27:07,759 --> 00:27:11,160
standing on land or on a surging iceberg.

279
00:27:29,948 --> 00:27:32,610
And they are superb swimmers.

280
00:27:34,653 --> 00:27:37,087
Swift and agile through water,

281
00:27:37,255 --> 00:27:40,691
they come in to land
through breakers that would smash any boat

282
00:27:40,859 --> 00:27:43,692
with the resilience of rubber balls.

283
00:27:53,438 --> 00:27:56,930
These chinstrap penguins
are only a couple of feet high.

284
00:27:57,108 --> 00:27:59,668
King penguins are half as tall again.

285
00:27:59,944 --> 00:28:03,380
Large size can be an advantage in cold climates.

286
00:28:03,648 --> 00:28:08,483
The bigger a body, the smaller
the surface area of its skin relative to its volum

287
00:28:08,720 --> 00:28:12,656
So big penguins retain heat
better than small ones.

288
00:28:13,024 --> 00:28:16,391
But their great size
causes problems in breeding.

289
00:28:16,594 --> 00:28:19,722
They lay just one egg, which they keep warm

290
00:28:19,898 --> 00:28:24,358
by the rather inconvenient method
of holding it on top of their feet,

291
00:28:24,636 --> 00:28:29,630
covered by a fold of feathered skin,
for eight long weeks.

292
00:28:29,974 --> 00:28:35,241
When it does hatch,
the chick takes so long to mature

293
00:28:35,413 --> 00:28:38,405
that they have to feed it for a further ten months

294
00:28:39,484 --> 00:28:42,578
These king penguins
aren't the biggest of all penguins.

295
00:28:42,821 --> 00:28:46,757
They have a cousin, living farther south,
which grows even bigger.

296
00:28:46,991 --> 00:28:50,256
It, too, has fearsome problems in raising its chic

297
00:28:50,428 --> 00:28:53,864
and it solves them
in the most dramatic way imaginable.

298
00:28:54,432 --> 00:28:58,869
They lay their eggs not in spring,
but at the end of summer.

299
00:28:59,237 --> 00:29:02,604
Their breeding grounds
are on the permanent sea ice near the coast.

300
00:29:02,841 --> 00:29:09,747
The females return to the sea to feed,
leaving the males with the eggs.

301
00:29:10,014 --> 00:29:13,040
They shuffle back and forth,
each with an egg on his feet,

302
00:29:13,218 --> 00:29:15,413
held carefully above the ice.

303
00:29:22,794 --> 00:29:26,093
The gales intensify as the winter advances

304
00:29:26,264 --> 00:29:28,061
and the sun sinks lower.

305
00:29:29,868 --> 00:29:33,031
In the skies above, the aurora plays.

306
00:29:33,772 --> 00:29:37,469
The male emperors
stoically sit out the months of winter darkness.

307
00:29:37,876 --> 00:29:42,279
The sea ice can offer them no nest.
Not even a scree for a few pebbles.

308
00:29:42,447 --> 00:29:47,282
They have nothing to eat, and nothing to do
except protect the precious egg

309
00:29:47,452 --> 00:29:51,388
and prevent it from freezing
while the chick slowly forms inside it.

310
00:29:51,790 --> 00:29:56,784
As the gales intensify, the males huddle together
to give one another shelter.

311
00:29:57,796 --> 00:30:02,665
Then, 65 days after it was laid,
the chick begins to hatch.

312
00:30:20,685 --> 00:30:22,880
The newly-emerged chicks are hungry.

313
00:30:23,121 --> 00:30:28,525
All the male can provide is a little secretion
from his throat and long-empty stomach.

314
00:30:28,993 --> 00:30:30,290
He's close to starving himself,

315
00:30:30,461 --> 00:30:34,158
having been sustained
only by the layer of fat beneath his skin.

316
00:30:34,432 --> 00:30:36,798
He's lost a third of his weight.

317
00:30:39,571 --> 00:30:42,870
But soon after,
the female reappears with a full stomach

318
00:30:43,107 --> 00:30:47,544
and takes the chick onto her feet
for its first proper feed.

319
00:30:48,546 --> 00:30:53,245
Now the parents will take turns
to trek to the sea and back,

320
00:30:53,418 --> 00:30:55,283
bringing food for their youngsters.

321
00:30:55,954 --> 00:31:00,653
But now, at the end of winter,
the ice has extended far out to sea,

322
00:31:00,825 --> 00:31:05,194
and the penguins may have to walk 50 miles
to reach open water.

323
00:31:06,264 --> 00:31:09,427
The adults have a powerful urge
to cherish a chick.

324
00:31:09,801 --> 00:31:12,929
Those that have lost one
will try and adopt any that wanders by

325
00:31:13,104 --> 00:31:15,800
or incubate pieces of ice.

326
00:31:27,952 --> 00:31:30,147
Repeatedly, the parent in charge

327
00:31:30,321 --> 00:31:33,222
manages to find something
from the pit of its stomach

328
00:31:33,391 --> 00:31:35,552
to feed the ever-hungry chick.

329
00:31:40,565 --> 00:31:43,762
Until the chicks lose their down
and get their adult plumage,

330
00:31:43,935 --> 00:31:47,268
they can't swim and so can't feed for themselves.

331
00:31:47,805 --> 00:31:53,243
But being so big, they, like the king penguins,
take a long time to grow to full size,

332
00:31:53,411 --> 00:31:59,111
and so their parents must make the long march
to the sea to collect food for them.

333
00:32:00,952 --> 00:32:04,888
Though the winter is almost over,
there is still bad weather.

334
00:32:05,089 --> 00:32:06,556
Blizzards rage over the ice,

335
00:32:06,724 --> 00:32:12,959
and the young huddle together
in groups of their own amongst the parent birds.

336
00:32:17,735 --> 00:32:21,330
Many of the youngsters lack the strength
to withstand the cold.

337
00:32:21,639 --> 00:32:22,765
Many die.

338
00:32:24,175 --> 00:32:29,772
As the sun rises higher each day,
the adults suffer in a different fashion.

339
00:32:30,148 --> 00:32:34,016
On sunny days they get too hot
in their insulating blanket of feathers,

340
00:32:34,185 --> 00:32:37,245
and eat snow in order to cool themselves.

341
00:32:39,557 --> 00:32:42,617
The chicks still have their downy feathers
and can't swim.

342
00:32:42,794 --> 00:32:47,128
But ten months on from laying, the chicks fledge,

343
00:32:47,298 --> 00:32:51,792
and over the next few weeks,
they all walk down to the sea,

344
00:32:51,970 --> 00:32:56,498
which now, with the spring break-up
of the ice, is close at hand.

345
00:32:59,043 --> 00:33:02,843
Now, at last, the adults
can feed entirely for themselves.

346
00:33:03,314 --> 00:33:05,874
They've got two months
in which to restore their weight

347
00:33:06,050 --> 00:33:09,178
before they start
the whole process over again.

348
00:33:14,025 --> 00:33:16,550
These birds, at first sight so penguin-like,

349
00:33:16,728 --> 00:33:19,663
live not near the south pole, but the north.

350
00:33:20,098 --> 00:33:24,000
They're not penguins but guillemots,
members of the auk family.

351
00:33:24,602 --> 00:33:28,197
All auks, like penguins,
are excellent underwater swimmers.

352
00:33:28,406 --> 00:33:30,966
They use their wings like flippers,

353
00:33:31,275 --> 00:33:34,403
but they have not become
such specialised swimmers as the penguins,

354
00:33:34,579 --> 00:33:36,069
for they can still fly.

355
00:33:36,981 --> 00:33:40,212
These are the guillemots' smaller cousins,
the little auk.

356
00:33:58,569 --> 00:34:03,131
Auks and penguins, similar though they are,
are not closely related.

357
00:34:03,307 --> 00:34:07,141
They've come to resemble one another
by adopting a similar lifestyle

358
00:34:07,311 --> 00:34:09,336
at opposite ends of the earth.

359
00:34:12,650 --> 00:34:16,711
Unlike Antarctica,
that isolated continent surrounded by sea,

360
00:34:16,888 --> 00:34:21,848
the Arctic is connected by land
to more temperate regions.

361
00:34:22,160 --> 00:34:26,995
So the land animals of Europe and North
America have been able to colonise it

362
00:34:27,165 --> 00:34:30,293
and adapt to its particular demands.

363
00:34:32,770 --> 00:34:34,738
Foxes have moved up here.

364
00:34:35,073 --> 00:34:40,807
The Arctic fox's coat is lighter
than its southern cousin, and in winter turns whit

365
00:34:41,345 --> 00:34:46,305
On land, it feeds on small rodents,
and on ice floes, perhaps the odd bird.

366
00:34:46,684 --> 00:34:50,051
It's just as well the little auks
have kept their powers of flight.

367
00:35:06,003 --> 00:35:12,340
The ice floes are also the hunting ground
of one of the biggest of all carnivores.

368
00:35:19,951 --> 00:35:21,441
The polar bear.

369
00:35:22,386 --> 00:35:25,480
This one has killed a bearded seal.

370
00:35:37,735 --> 00:35:42,638
A young bear is eager to take a share of the kill,
but must be cautious.

371
00:35:42,907 --> 00:35:46,001
Adults sometimes kill youngsters in squabbles.

372
00:36:19,110 --> 00:36:24,946
The polar bear is clearly a close relative
of the bears that live in Europe and America.

373
00:36:25,416 --> 00:36:31,150
Its whiteness is an obvious adaptation
to the snow and ice, but so is its huge size.

374
00:36:31,622 --> 00:36:38,528
The principle of a big body retaining more heat
applies to bears as much as penguins,

375
00:36:38,763 --> 00:36:44,201
and polar bears are very much bigger than
their cousins in temperate lands farther south.

376
00:37:01,819 --> 00:37:07,519
Polar bears, if forced to, will eat all kinds of t
but their preferred food is flesh,

377
00:37:07,692 --> 00:37:09,489
particularly that of seals.

378
00:37:09,860 --> 00:37:13,728
They especially like the blubber
just below the seal's skin,

379
00:37:13,931 --> 00:37:17,389
and often leave the meat
for the scavenging gulls and foxes.

380
00:37:44,996 --> 00:37:49,729
Among the glaucous gulls is the much rarer
and pure-white ivory gull.

381
00:37:59,277 --> 00:38:04,943
The polar bear's white coat and great size
are not its only adaptations to Arctic life.

382
00:38:05,182 --> 00:38:08,709
It grips the ice with long, sharp claws

383
00:38:08,886 --> 00:38:14,483
and thick hair on the soles,
which also makes them excellent paddles,

384
00:38:14,792 --> 00:38:18,888
for the polar bear spends a lot of time swimming
during the summer.

385
00:39:01,505 --> 00:39:03,939
Ringed seals are much hunted by polar bears,

386
00:39:04,108 --> 00:39:08,511
and when on the ice,
must be constantly on the alert.

387
00:39:12,583 --> 00:39:16,212
They need ice holes
through which to leave the water,

388
00:39:16,387 --> 00:39:19,288
or at least stick up their heads to breathe.

389
00:39:25,062 --> 00:39:30,090
A polar bear will wait for many hours,
motionless, beside such a hole.

390
00:39:34,672 --> 00:39:39,200
They also stalk seals
that are rash enough to lie out on the ice.

391
00:39:54,925 --> 00:40:00,488
The polar bear has lost, but about once
in every five hunting days, it does kill,

392
00:40:00,698 --> 00:40:02,188
and that is enough.

393
00:40:10,241 --> 00:40:15,873
The most powerful effective hunter of all,
however, on the northern ice, is man.

394
00:40:19,650 --> 00:40:22,847
Eskimo, or Inuit,
as they prefer to call themselves,

395
00:40:23,020 --> 00:40:26,046
came up to the Arctic in very early times.

396
00:40:26,357 --> 00:40:29,986
Superb hunters,
they could live for many months in winter

397
00:40:30,161 --> 00:40:32,925
on nothing whatever but raw meat.

398
00:40:45,676 --> 00:40:51,114
They were so skilled at living on the ice
that with only a knife of bone

399
00:40:51,282 --> 00:40:55,309
they could make a waterproof house
from snow in an hour or so.

400
00:41:08,232 --> 00:41:10,757
A slab of sea ice made a window.

401
00:41:31,021 --> 00:41:34,980
Inside, the igloo was lit
with lamps fed by seal blubber.

402
00:41:35,292 --> 00:41:37,192
Heat from the flame and from their bodies

403
00:41:37,361 --> 00:41:42,765
could raise the temperature enough for them
to remove their heavy clothing and relax.

404
00:41:56,947 --> 00:42:00,542
It was a life of extraordinary rigour and privatio

405
00:42:00,985 --> 00:42:03,579
These pictures were taken 20 years ago.

406
00:42:03,854 --> 00:42:06,550
No Eskimo lives in this way today.

407
00:42:08,492 --> 00:42:10,687
The poles have not always been so cold.

408
00:42:10,928 --> 00:42:15,627
One explanation of why they've become so
is the warming effect of ocean currents.

409
00:42:15,866 --> 00:42:19,825
If they can circulate the waters of the polar seas
down towards the equator,

410
00:42:20,004 --> 00:42:22,097
they would keep them relatively warm.

411
00:42:22,339 --> 00:42:27,709
And maybe they did so 100 million years ago,
when the continents were arranged like this.

412
00:42:28,412 --> 00:42:32,610
But the continents have shifted,
the polar seas become more enclosed

413
00:42:32,783 --> 00:42:35,217
and any such currents interrupted.

414
00:42:37,821 --> 00:42:40,381
Meanwhile, during the same period,

415
00:42:40,558 --> 00:42:45,586
the Antarctic continent drifted south
until it came to rest over the south pole.

416
00:42:45,863 --> 00:42:50,664
Now ocean currents
could not keep that part of the world warm either,

417
00:42:50,834 --> 00:42:52,734
and so an ice cap formed.

418
00:42:53,437 --> 00:42:59,000
The whiteness reflected 90% of the heat
in the already feeble rays of the sun.

419
00:42:59,243 --> 00:43:03,737
So ice now covers all of Antarctica
and the seas of the north pole.

420
00:43:04,281 --> 00:43:07,444
Over the past million years
there have been other variations,

421
00:43:07,618 --> 00:43:10,416
due to the sun's varying strength,

422
00:43:10,588 --> 00:43:13,182
and the ice cover has waxed and waned.

423
00:43:13,524 --> 00:43:16,925
Now we're in one of the warmer phases,

424
00:43:17,094 --> 00:43:20,894
but even so, Antarctica is still buried
beneath ice a mile thick,

425
00:43:21,065 --> 00:43:27,493
and in the north, ice and snow
extend for 1,000 miles away from the pole.

426
00:43:49,293 --> 00:43:52,751
As you come down the mountain
or away from the pole,

427
00:43:52,930 --> 00:43:58,459
the land becomes warm enough to prevent it
being covered by ice and snow all year.

428
00:43:58,769 --> 00:44:02,967
Beyond, the country is bleak enough:
Boulders and gravel,

429
00:44:03,140 --> 00:44:08,168
rocks that have been ground to fragments
by the glaciers and pushed in front of them.

430
00:44:09,346 --> 00:44:14,545
This is the tundra,
a land full of strange shapes and patterns.

431
00:44:14,985 --> 00:44:18,751
Fine muds and sands
retain more moisture than coarse gravel,

432
00:44:18,922 --> 00:44:21,652
so when they freeze, they expand more

433
00:44:21,825 --> 00:44:26,819
and push the gravel outwards
to produce these geometric shapes.

434
00:44:27,231 --> 00:44:30,723
A foot down, the soil is still frozen, permafrost,

435
00:44:30,901 --> 00:44:33,699
so the summer melt water can't soak away

436
00:44:33,871 --> 00:44:39,207
and the land is covered with bogs and ponds
that lie within the polygonal ridges,

437
00:44:39,376 --> 00:44:43,335
so that the land looks almost
as though it's been cultivated by man.

438
00:44:47,051 --> 00:44:51,852
In places, the underground ice
pushes upwards into a mountain called a pingo.

439
00:44:52,756 --> 00:44:57,193
It looks like a small volcano,
but instead of hot lava in its heart,

440
00:44:57,361 --> 00:44:59,795
it has cold, blue ice.

441
00:45:11,241 --> 00:45:15,940
Although the ice relaxes its grip
for only a few weeks in summer,

442
00:45:16,113 --> 00:45:21,073
a surprising number of plants and animals
manage to find a permanent home here.

443
00:45:25,355 --> 00:45:27,823
Small flowering plants keep low,

444
00:45:27,991 --> 00:45:33,293
for close to the ground there is little wind
and the sun's rays can be quite warm.

445
00:45:40,871 --> 00:45:44,830
One kind of tree manages to live up here
in large numbers

446
00:45:45,008 --> 00:45:47,670
by adopting exactly the same policy.

447
00:45:48,912 --> 00:45:51,642
This is the Arctic willow and it lies flat.

448
00:45:51,815 --> 00:45:54,511
It grows extremely slowly
in these cold temperatures,

449
00:45:54,685 --> 00:46:00,021
and this one may be a century or so old.

450
00:46:01,158 --> 00:46:03,285
In shallow burrows in the topsoil

451
00:46:03,460 --> 00:46:08,557
live the harvesters of this meagre crop
of leaves and grass: Lemmings.

452
00:46:12,102 --> 00:46:15,970
In summer, when there's food about,
they breed with great speed.

453
00:46:16,206 --> 00:46:22,406
One female produces five or six babies
in a litter, four or five times in a single season

454
00:46:22,679 --> 00:46:26,046
So in a few months she may produce 30 young.

455
00:46:26,316 --> 00:46:30,685
The babies grow so quickly
that the first to be born in the spring

456
00:46:30,854 --> 00:46:33,982
can themselves produce young
before the winter returns.

457
00:46:40,731 --> 00:46:44,462
In summer, all the tundra plants
put out their leaves

458
00:46:44,635 --> 00:46:46,125
and there's lots to eat.

459
00:46:53,744 --> 00:46:56,907
The swarming hordes of lemmings attract hunters:

460
00:46:59,483 --> 00:47:00,916
Snowy owls.

461
00:47:13,931 --> 00:47:17,298
During the summer,
lemmings are the owl's main food.

462
00:47:36,486 --> 00:47:41,355
Abundant though the lemmings are,
the hunting has been poor for this owl.

463
00:47:41,558 --> 00:47:46,325
She may have laid as many as eight eggs,
but only one chick has survived.

464
00:48:01,912 --> 00:48:06,042
As the days lengthen,
herds of caribou migrate up from the south.

465
00:48:06,683 --> 00:48:12,280
Their calves were born early in the season
and the herd moves up to 15 miles a day

466
00:48:12,656 --> 00:48:17,389
They have to keep traveling in order
to find enough food to sustain them all.

467
00:48:46,390 --> 00:48:48,620
They follow the same route each year.

468
00:48:48,792 --> 00:48:51,625
In places, paths are worn 18 inches deep

469
00:48:51,795 --> 00:48:55,253
where the animals have passed,
century after century.

470
00:49:01,371 --> 00:49:03,236
Snow geese fly up, too.

471
00:49:03,540 --> 00:49:07,567
They've come from as far away as Mexico,
3,000 miles distant,

472
00:49:07,744 --> 00:49:12,113
to claim a share in summer's brief crop
and to breed.

473
00:49:21,224 --> 00:49:23,089
They exist in two forms:

474
00:49:23,260 --> 00:49:27,321
Ones with dark feathers on the body,
as well as pure-white ones.

475
00:49:27,698 --> 00:49:31,225
But they're all the same species,
and mixed couples are common.

476
00:49:35,305 --> 00:49:38,433
Soon the tundra is thick with their nests.

477
00:49:41,378 --> 00:49:45,644
Ptarmigan, now in their dark summer plumage,
feed on the willow scrub.

478
00:49:52,956 --> 00:49:56,585
The caribou take not only willow,
but grasses and lichen.

479
00:50:08,839 --> 00:50:13,071
The first snow geese to arrive
already have goslings,

480
00:50:13,243 --> 00:50:15,006
and are foraging as a family.

481
00:50:23,787 --> 00:50:25,846
Later arrivals are still on the nest,

482
00:50:26,023 --> 00:50:29,550
and can't leave until the last egg has hatched.

483
00:50:30,027 --> 00:50:33,053
While there, the first goslings to emerge
and their parents

484
00:50:33,230 --> 00:50:37,997
are plagued by hordes of voracious
blood-hungry mosquitoes.

485
00:50:52,783 --> 00:50:56,651
From the warming pools,
more and more mosquitoes hatch.

486
00:51:03,160 --> 00:51:07,620
They provide food for the red-necked phalarope,
and there are plenty to gather.

487
00:51:07,798 --> 00:51:13,031
A square yard of fresh water here
can produce 100,000 insects in a season.

488
00:51:14,104 --> 00:51:15,696
Now the blackfly larvae,

489
00:51:15,872 --> 00:51:19,433
which as eggs were attached to stones
in the shallow pools,

490
00:51:19,609 --> 00:51:21,873
are also beginning to emerge.

491
00:51:43,266 --> 00:51:49,865
Activity now is intense, for it is light
for almost the whole 24 hours of the day.

492
00:51:52,476 --> 00:51:56,310
But by late August,
the snow geese sense the imminence of winter

493
00:51:56,480 --> 00:51:58,675
and start to head southwards again.

494
00:52:08,558 --> 00:52:11,083
The caribou, too, end their grazing,

495
00:52:11,261 --> 00:52:14,253
and start to plod back across the tundra.

496
00:52:14,865 --> 00:52:16,730
As they go, they continue to feed,

497
00:52:16,900 --> 00:52:21,462
building up the reserves of fat they will need
to sustain themselves through the winter.

498
00:52:41,391 --> 00:52:46,260
As the weather gets colder and colder,
the need for shelter becomes more urgent

499
00:52:46,530 --> 00:52:49,431
and the herds may cover 25 miles in a day.

500
00:53:10,287 --> 00:53:15,691
And then, at last,
the returning travellers reach the first tall tree

501
00:53:16,059 --> 00:53:18,459
It's the start of the great coniferous forest

502
00:53:18,628 --> 00:53:22,155
that lies south of the tundra
right round the globe.

503
00:53:22,866 --> 00:53:26,063
The snow geese will fly on for thousands of miles,

504
00:53:26,236 --> 00:53:29,637
but the caribou have reached
their wintering grounds.

505
00:53:30,140 --> 00:53:32,108
The forest is a sanctuary

506
00:53:32,275 --> 00:53:35,574
which will protect them from the bitter winter col

507
00:53:35,946 --> 00:53:39,882
and it's here that we shall be coming
in the next programme.

