1
00:01:49,476 --> 00:01:54,709
These mountains stand in the middle
of the biggest desert on earth, the Sahara.

2
00:01:55,582 --> 00:01:57,846
It stretches right across the width of Africa,

3
00:01:58,084 --> 00:02:01,076
three and a half million square miles of it.

4
00:02:02,355 --> 00:02:06,052
At night, it gets so cold that it can freeze.

5
00:02:06,259 --> 00:02:09,786
During the day, the sun strikes it so ferociously

6
00:02:09,963 --> 00:02:13,763
that the highest land temperatures
ever recorded were measured here:

7
00:02:13,933 --> 00:02:18,393
58 degrees centigrade,
137 degrees Fahrenheit.

8
00:02:18,738 --> 00:02:24,199
And, in turn, those oven-like temperatures
rob the land of all its moisture.

9
00:02:24,477 --> 00:02:29,813
All in all, there could hardly be
a more hostile environment for life on earth.

10
00:02:30,150 --> 00:02:31,947
But it wasn't always this way.

11
00:02:33,920 --> 00:02:36,514
And if you want evidence of that, here it is.

12
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A group of antelope, probably sable.

13
00:02:44,764 --> 00:02:47,756
Creatures that can't live
anywhere in the Sahara today,

14
00:02:47,934 --> 00:02:50,425
because there's simply
not enough vegetation for them.

15
00:02:50,670 --> 00:02:54,162
These aren't the only wild animals
painted on these rocks.

16
00:02:57,744 --> 00:02:59,075
A giraffe.

17
00:03:01,514 --> 00:03:04,210
A kind of wild goat, probably a moufflon.

18
00:03:05,084 --> 00:03:06,244
And antelope.

19
00:03:06,486 --> 00:03:10,855
Obviously, at the time these pictures
were painted, there was good grazing here.

20
00:03:11,758 --> 00:03:16,889
Indeed, there was sufficient vegetation
to sustain not only wild animals,

21
00:03:17,063 --> 00:03:19,258
but whole herds of cattle.

22
00:03:21,034 --> 00:03:23,434
We don't know exactly who drew these pictures.

23
00:03:23,603 --> 00:03:25,696
The artists may have been
ancestors of the nomads

24
00:03:25,872 --> 00:03:31,674
who today follow their herds of long-horned
piebald cattle just south of the Sahara.

25
00:03:32,045 --> 00:03:35,412
But we know what they looked like,
because they left their portraits.

26
00:03:35,782 --> 00:03:38,615
They lived here, it seems, some 5,000 years ago.

27
00:03:38,818 --> 00:03:42,447
But eventually the rains began to fail,
the pastures disappeared,

28
00:03:42,622 --> 00:03:45,090
and with it the cattle and their keepers.

29
00:03:45,425 --> 00:03:49,088
But there are one or two living survivors
from that time.

30
00:03:52,031 --> 00:03:56,695
This ancient cypress, judging from
the number of rings in the trunks of others like i

31
00:03:56,970 --> 00:04:00,428
is probably between 2,000 and 3,000 years old.

32
00:04:00,740 --> 00:04:06,679
In fact, it was probably already growing here
when the last paintings were being made.

33
00:04:06,946 --> 00:04:08,937
It still bears fertile seed,

34
00:04:09,115 --> 00:04:12,642
but there are no little seedlings
growing here to replace it.

35
00:04:12,952 --> 00:04:15,944
The land now is far too dry for them.

36
00:04:16,256 --> 00:04:18,383
Indeed, the cypress itself only survives

37
00:04:18,558 --> 00:04:23,860
because it sends its huge roots
deep into the ground to tap underground water.

38
00:04:24,897 --> 00:04:28,128
The drying out of the Sahara
seems to be connected

39
00:04:28,301 --> 00:04:32,567
with the great changes in climate
at the end of the last ice age.

40
00:04:32,872 --> 00:04:36,399
As the glaciers
retreated northwards across Europe,

41
00:04:36,643 --> 00:04:39,737
so the rains that fell regularly
along their southern edge

42
00:04:39,912 --> 00:04:45,873
left Africa and moved up into Europe,
and the Sahara was robbed of its rains.

43
00:04:46,286 --> 00:04:52,122
Indeed, it seems that most of the world's
great deserts were formed around that time,

44
00:04:52,292 --> 00:04:56,820
and most, if not all of them,
are therefore comparatively recent environments.

45
00:04:58,331 --> 00:05:03,098
To see why deserts lie where they do,
we can look at the Sahara from the west.

46
00:05:03,403 --> 00:05:07,464
The equator runs away from us
across the width of Africa.

47
00:05:07,907 --> 00:05:12,173
It's along this line
that the sun's rays strike from directly overhead,

48
00:05:12,345 --> 00:05:14,870
and therefore with the greatest strength.

49
00:05:15,348 --> 00:05:17,248
The heated air rises along the equator

50
00:05:17,417 --> 00:05:21,046
and flows away, north and south,
to cooler parts of the world.

51
00:05:21,321 --> 00:05:24,757
Because it's warm, it carries a lot of moisture.

52
00:05:24,957 --> 00:05:29,792
But as it rises and cools,
the moisture condenses first to form clouds

53
00:05:29,962 --> 00:05:31,623
and then to fall as rain.

54
00:05:31,964 --> 00:05:37,231
When the air comes down again over the Sahara
to the left and the Kalahari to the right,

55
00:05:37,503 --> 00:05:41,462
it's lost most of its moisture
and creates few clouds.

56
00:05:42,008 --> 00:05:44,875
The Sahara,
with few clouds to shield it from the sun,

57
00:05:45,078 --> 00:05:47,774
becomes roastingly hot during the day.

58
00:05:48,114 --> 00:05:53,916
And at night, with no blanket of clouds
to keep in its warmth, it gets desperately cold.

59
00:05:54,687 --> 00:05:58,316
Deserts are not placed
symmetrically around the world,

60
00:05:58,524 --> 00:06:02,517
because the continents themselves
are distributed in a very irregular way.

61
00:06:02,795 --> 00:06:07,562
They're ridged with great mountain ranges,
which interfere with the even flow of air,

62
00:06:07,800 --> 00:06:11,793
and the planet's spin
creates vast eddies in the atmosphere,

63
00:06:12,038 --> 00:06:13,699
which further complicates things.

64
00:06:14,073 --> 00:06:19,136
But even so, deserts do lie
in two broad zones on either side of the equator.

65
00:06:19,846 --> 00:06:22,781
The pattern in Africa, with the Sahara in the nort

66
00:06:22,949 --> 00:06:28,046
and the Kalahari and the Namib in the south,
has its equivalent in the Americas.

67
00:06:29,655 --> 00:06:32,818
South of the lush equatorial jungles
of the Amazon,

68
00:06:33,025 --> 00:06:37,826
beyond the great range of the Andes,
lies the Atacama desert.

69
00:06:38,131 --> 00:06:43,159
On the other side of the equator, beyond
the drenched tropical rainforests of Panama,

70
00:06:43,469 --> 00:06:46,461
stretch the deserts of Mexico and Arizona.

71
00:06:47,907 --> 00:06:51,843
Across the Pacific,
the greatest expanse of water on the globe,

72
00:06:52,078 --> 00:06:57,675
lies, south of the equator, Australia,
most of which is covered by desert.

73
00:06:57,984 --> 00:07:02,887
Its northern tip gets close enough to the equator
to collect some rain.

74
00:07:03,189 --> 00:07:04,656
Farther north still,

75
00:07:04,891 --> 00:07:09,089
beyond the jungle that blankets
Indonesia and Malaysia, Thailand and Burma,

76
00:07:09,362 --> 00:07:12,388
across the great snow-covered range
of the Himalayas,

77
00:07:12,732 --> 00:07:17,499
stretch the vast deserts
of central Asia: Mongolia and the Gobi.

78
00:07:18,104 --> 00:07:20,971
Beyond them,
as we complete the circuit of the globe,

79
00:07:21,207 --> 00:07:25,667
the huge desert of the Middle East
that covers Iran, Iraq and Jordan,

80
00:07:25,912 --> 00:07:29,973
Syria and Israel,
the vast sandy emptiness of Arabia,

81
00:07:30,216 --> 00:07:32,980
and runs on to join the Sahara.

82
00:07:39,659 --> 00:07:43,857
This is the biggest expanse
of waterless land on earth.

83
00:07:44,297 --> 00:07:49,758
Here, as in deserts everywhere,
almost nothing moves during the heat of the day.

84
00:07:51,938 --> 00:07:53,838
But animals are here.

85
00:08:04,851 --> 00:08:06,785
If you want to see what made these tracks,

86
00:08:07,019 --> 00:08:11,217
you have to wait until the sun sinks
and the desert begins to cool.

87
00:08:19,999 --> 00:08:25,369
A striped hyena, one of the commonest of
the bigger desert animals in this part of the worl

88
00:08:35,948 --> 00:08:37,245
A fennec fox.

89
00:08:45,992 --> 00:08:51,362
Fennecs usually live in small family groups,
and clearly enjoy one another's company.

90
00:09:00,039 --> 00:09:03,600
But there's not much time for frolicking.
Food must be found.

91
00:09:03,910 --> 00:09:09,041
Faint smells from the sand tell them
who has moved where since they were last out.

92
00:09:38,144 --> 00:09:41,443
As the moon rises,
many more creatures emerge.

93
00:09:42,248 --> 00:09:44,682
A gecko. Just what the fennec wants.

94
00:09:56,596 --> 00:10:00,532
Ajerboa.
It, too, is looking for food. Seeds.

95
00:10:09,275 --> 00:10:12,210
Another little seed-eating rodent, a gerbil.

96
00:10:15,514 --> 00:10:21,316
And a caracal, a kind of cat, which loves
both gerbils and jerboas, if it can get them.

97
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A smaller hunter,
but nonetheless a deadly one: A scorpion.

98
00:10:42,008 --> 00:10:44,670
It is searching for beetles or other small insects

99
00:10:44,877 --> 00:10:47,710
But sometimes the hunter becomes the hunted.

100
00:10:48,147 --> 00:10:52,914
A black widow spider has set
her snare of silk underneath a thorn bush.

101
00:11:32,792 --> 00:11:36,990
In the intense struggle,
the black widow loses one of her legs.

102
00:11:47,506 --> 00:11:52,944
She manages to get more ropes of silk
around the scorpion, hampering it still further.

103
00:11:57,983 --> 00:12:01,714
The scorpion hangs on to its trophy,
but to no purpose.

104
00:12:01,954 --> 00:12:03,615
The battle is as good as lost.

105
00:12:15,434 --> 00:12:20,428
Methodically, the spider trusses up her victim
and hangs it in her larder.

106
00:12:27,113 --> 00:12:31,516
Wolves, perhaps surprisingly, are quite common
in these Middle Eastern deserts,

107
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but they're not like those farther north.

108
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They're smaller, lighter-coloured,
and with only the thinnest fur,

109
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and they scavenge as much as they hunt.

110
00:12:45,664 --> 00:12:48,997
The cool night is coming to an end.
Hunting is over.

111
00:12:49,168 --> 00:12:51,932
The animals must go back to their dens
and hiding places

112
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to shelter from the heat that is to come.

113
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The sun returns, and very soon
the desert will be heating up once again.

114
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The mammals that were active
during the night have to find shelter.

115
00:13:26,038 --> 00:13:28,097
The day belongs not to them,

116
00:13:28,274 --> 00:13:33,177
but to creatures that get their heat
directly from the sun: Reptiles.

117
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This is the desert
of the American west in Arizona,

118
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and we've come here to look
at one very special desert reptile: This one.

119
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This is the Gila monster,
one of only two poisonous lizards in the world.

120
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Actually, he very seldom
uses his poison in defence,

121
00:14:00,139 --> 00:14:03,040
and it's still quite early in the morning

122
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and he is so cold that he isn't very active.

123
00:14:07,146 --> 00:14:13,016
But in only about an hour, the desert will
get so hot that he won't be able to stand it,

124
00:14:13,252 --> 00:14:15,914
and he, too, will have to seek shade.

125
00:14:16,088 --> 00:14:20,320
So in this short period of the early morning
and in the cool of the evening

126
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is the time when he hunts.

127
00:14:37,343 --> 00:14:42,508
A tortoise, but he's far too big
and well-armoured for a Gila monster to tackle.

128
00:14:53,759 --> 00:14:57,661
This great nest of sticks,
however, looks much more promising.

129
00:15:12,211 --> 00:15:14,645
The victim: A desert mouse.

130
00:15:29,228 --> 00:15:33,688
The tortoise is on the lookout for food, too,
but it is a vegetarian.

131
00:15:51,283 --> 00:15:53,808
The day is now several hours old.

132
00:15:54,053 --> 00:15:57,022
Cool dawn is changing to baking noon.

133
00:15:57,289 --> 00:16:00,520
It's time for even a reptile to get out of the sun

134
00:16:07,599 --> 00:16:09,362
Movement generates heat,

135
00:16:09,535 --> 00:16:13,596
so now nothing moves unless it absolutely has to.

136
00:16:13,906 --> 00:16:16,670
And there are some creatures
that remain motionless

137
00:16:16,842 --> 00:16:19,709
even when you get within a few inches of them.

138
00:16:19,979 --> 00:16:24,279
One of them is on the ground
right in front of me now,

139
00:16:24,516 --> 00:16:28,213
though you may find it difficult to see
because it's so well camouflaged.

140
00:16:29,221 --> 00:16:31,985
It's a poorwill, a kind of nightjar.

141
00:16:36,929 --> 00:16:41,161
Fluttering the throat evaporates moisture
from the mouth and so cools the bird.

142
00:16:41,533 --> 00:16:44,866
It consumes much less energy
than heaving the chest and panting,

143
00:16:45,037 --> 00:16:47,665
as many mammals would do in this situation.

144
00:16:48,807 --> 00:16:51,401
The sand grouse
of Africa uses the same trick.

145
00:16:59,651 --> 00:17:03,849
The sand grouse chicks start doing it
almost as soon as they emerge from the shell.

146
00:17:09,361 --> 00:17:13,195
They also immediately peck for seeds,
but there's little moisture in a seed,

147
00:17:13,399 --> 00:17:15,492
and unless they drink, they will die.

148
00:17:15,934 --> 00:17:19,995
The responsibility for providing that
rests entirely with the male.

149
00:17:21,006 --> 00:17:25,500
Every day he flies to water,
maybe as much as 25 miles from the nest.

150
00:17:26,278 --> 00:17:29,304
First he fills his own stomach with water.

151
00:17:34,520 --> 00:17:38,456
But then, very deliberately,
he soaks his belly feathers.

152
00:17:43,328 --> 00:17:45,888
These feathers have a special spongy structure

153
00:17:46,065 --> 00:17:48,659
so that they can absorb lots of water.

154
00:17:48,834 --> 00:17:52,895
Once he has a full load, he flies back to his fami

155
00:18:03,449 --> 00:18:05,781
At last the chicks get their drink.

156
00:18:06,051 --> 00:18:09,953
No other bird
has such an ingenious water-carrying device.

157
00:18:20,399 --> 00:18:22,264
The roadrunner of the American deserts

158
00:18:22,434 --> 00:18:25,335
provides water for its chicks quite differently.

159
00:18:25,571 --> 00:18:29,029
This parent bird
has collected a cicada for its family.

160
00:18:30,642 --> 00:18:32,769
Its nest is in a cholla cactus.

161
00:18:33,011 --> 00:18:36,344
The parent doesn't give its chicks
their food immediately.

162
00:18:43,155 --> 00:18:45,146
The chick is gulping.

163
00:18:45,390 --> 00:18:49,827
The parent bird is producing liquid from
its stomach and letting it trickle down its beak.

164
00:18:56,335 --> 00:18:58,701
Each youngster gets its share.

165
00:19:14,453 --> 00:19:17,820
Another ration of solid food. This time, a lizard.

166
00:19:27,766 --> 00:19:31,497
Each time, before the meal is handed over,
the chicks get a drink,

167
00:19:31,670 --> 00:19:33,228
whether they like it or not.

168
00:19:45,317 --> 00:19:49,219
During the day, the parents sit on the nest,
not to keep the chicks warm,

169
00:19:49,388 --> 00:19:52,789
but, on the contrary,
to keep them cool by shading them.

170
00:19:53,125 --> 00:19:55,150
The bird not only flutters its throat,

171
00:19:55,327 --> 00:19:59,525
but protects itself from the sun
by using its tail as a parasol.

172
00:20:04,002 --> 00:20:07,631
The ground squirrel
of the Namib desert does the same thing,

173
00:20:07,806 --> 00:20:11,708
and very effectively, too,
carefully angling itself as far as possible

174
00:20:11,877 --> 00:20:13,504
to keep its body in the shade.

175
00:20:25,591 --> 00:20:28,526
Many animals
keep their blood cool with radiators.

176
00:20:28,727 --> 00:20:33,323
The hedgehog that lives in the desert
of the Middle East has unusually large ears.

177
00:20:33,599 --> 00:20:36,659
Blood circulates through capillaries
close to the surface of the skin

178
00:20:36,835 --> 00:20:38,803
and is cooled by the breeze.

179
00:20:46,411 --> 00:20:49,608
The fennec fox's huge ears
serve the same purpose.

180
00:20:52,584 --> 00:20:54,381
So do those of the American jackrabbit,

181
00:20:54,553 --> 00:20:58,387
which perhaps has the biggest ears of all
in proportion to its body.

182
00:21:05,397 --> 00:21:08,127
The dorcas gazelle also has radiator ears

183
00:21:08,300 --> 00:21:11,133
and is one of the best-adapted
desert mammals.

184
00:21:11,370 --> 00:21:14,931
It's one of few
that can survive without drinking at all.

185
00:21:15,240 --> 00:21:18,334
It gets all the liquid it needs from vegetation.

186
00:21:21,079 --> 00:21:26,984
It doesn't waste liquid as urine,
but gets rid of its uric acid as small dry pellets

187
00:21:44,102 --> 00:21:48,505
It's now approaching noon,
the hottest time of the day.

188
00:21:48,707 --> 00:21:51,540
It's summer, the hottest time of the year,

189
00:21:51,743 --> 00:21:55,235
and I'm in one of the hottest places on earth:

190
00:21:55,480 --> 00:21:58,745
Death Valley in the western United States.

191
00:21:58,984 --> 00:22:05,412
A thermometer on the ground here
has risen to 201 degrees Fahrenheit.

192
00:22:05,624 --> 00:22:08,991
That's about 94 degrees centigrade.

193
00:22:09,261 --> 00:22:14,358
It's so hot that no creature
can survive permanently out here.

194
00:22:14,599 --> 00:22:18,797
Even at the edge of these sand flats,
where the ground is more broken,

195
00:22:18,970 --> 00:22:22,497
there is no sign of animal life whatever.

196
00:22:22,874 --> 00:22:29,006
All animals now have sought the shade
and shelter from this ferocious sun.

197
00:22:29,281 --> 00:22:33,012
But some organisms can't get out of the sun.

198
00:22:33,985 --> 00:22:36,351
Plants, being fixed to the ground,

199
00:22:36,521 --> 00:22:41,754
have to stay out in the heat of the day
and simply endure.

200
00:22:42,027 --> 00:22:45,690
But all of them
have special devices to help them to do so.

201
00:22:45,964 --> 00:22:50,924
The desert holly. Its leaves grow
at about 70 degrees to the vertical,

202
00:22:51,269 --> 00:22:56,639
so that in the morning when it's less hot
and in the evening when the plant needs light,

203
00:22:56,808 --> 00:22:59,868
the face of its leaves face the light.

204
00:23:00,045 --> 00:23:05,677
During the middle of the day, it shows
only the edges and doesn't heat up so much.

205
00:23:06,184 --> 00:23:11,451
Not only that, but the plant
extracts salt from the salt-laden ground

206
00:23:11,623 --> 00:23:15,218
and excretes it as a white coating on the leaf,

207
00:23:15,394 --> 00:23:19,660
which, like the white costume of an athlete,
reflects the heat

208
00:23:19,831 --> 00:23:22,391
and so keeps the plant that much cooler.

209
00:23:23,101 --> 00:23:25,433
And this, the creosote bush.

210
00:23:26,838 --> 00:23:30,797
This is one of the most widespread of plants
in American deserts,

211
00:23:31,042 --> 00:23:36,878
and its roots are better at extracting
the last molecule of water from parched sands

212
00:23:37,048 --> 00:23:39,710
than those of any other American plant.

213
00:23:39,951 --> 00:23:44,650
This has led to an extraordinary state of affairs
that's only just been discovered.

214
00:23:45,624 --> 00:23:49,321
It seems that the creosote bush
was the first plant to establish itself

215
00:23:49,494 --> 00:23:53,453
in the arid Mojave desert
when the desert first appeared.

216
00:23:53,765 --> 00:23:56,791
Once it had established its extensive root system,

217
00:23:56,968 --> 00:24:00,426
it extracted moisture
from the sand so efficiently

218
00:24:00,605 --> 00:24:04,837
that it was extremely difficult
for any other plant to grow alongside it.

219
00:24:05,110 --> 00:24:10,912
And that applied not only to any other
kind of plant but also to its own seedlings.

220
00:24:12,417 --> 00:24:18,185
So an individual creosote bush
tended to spread not by setting seeds

221
00:24:18,356 --> 00:24:19,983
and producing a new generation,

222
00:24:20,225 --> 00:24:24,719
but by sending out new stems around its base.

223
00:24:25,063 --> 00:24:29,932
And as these spread outwards,
so the stems in the middle tended to die away,

224
00:24:30,202 --> 00:24:34,434
and the bush grew into a ring shape like this.

225
00:24:34,639 --> 00:24:40,441
So these are not separate
individual creosote bushes, as it might appear,

226
00:24:40,612 --> 00:24:46,016
but this is just
one big ring-shaped individual plant.

227
00:24:47,519 --> 00:24:52,081
Over the centuries,
the rings widened and changed their shape

228
00:24:52,257 --> 00:24:57,661
until now some are over 25 yards across,
like this one.

229
00:24:58,730 --> 00:25:04,896
Of course, the individual stems and leaves
of this plant are not very ancient.

230
00:25:05,136 --> 00:25:10,836
The first ones to grow, which appeared
in the middle, decayed and disappeared long ago.

231
00:25:11,009 --> 00:25:14,911
Now it's estimated
that this plant began growing

232
00:25:15,080 --> 00:25:18,277
between 10,000 and 12,000 years ago,

233
00:25:18,517 --> 00:25:22,078
in fact, when the Mojave desert first appeared,

234
00:25:22,254 --> 00:25:27,191
and that makes it the oldest known
living organism in the world.

235
00:25:32,564 --> 00:25:37,729
In the Mojave, the plants may have to survive
for as long as ten years without rain,

236
00:25:38,003 --> 00:25:42,440
but if rain falls a little more frequently,
as it does nearby in Arizona,

237
00:25:42,641 --> 00:25:45,576
plants can have different survival strategies.

238
00:25:46,678 --> 00:25:51,274
To many of us,
the very symbol of the desert is the cactus.

239
00:25:51,483 --> 00:25:57,388
But in fact, this family of fleshy-stemmed
plants lives only in the Americas.

240
00:25:57,622 --> 00:26:02,992
There are several hundred species of them,
but among the biggest is the saguaro.

241
00:26:05,030 --> 00:26:07,191
The saguaro has solved the problems

242
00:26:07,365 --> 00:26:12,234
of surviving in great heat and drought
very successfully indeed.

243
00:26:12,804 --> 00:26:18,470
Its stem is pleated like an accordion,
so when rain does fall, the cactus can expand

244
00:26:18,643 --> 00:26:22,511
and quickly absorb as much water as possible
before it disappears.

245
00:26:22,881 --> 00:26:27,682
After a single storm, a saguaro
can take up as much as a ton in a few days.

246
00:26:29,487 --> 00:26:31,387
Its leaves have become thorns,

247
00:26:31,590 --> 00:26:36,584
so reducing the surface area from which
the plant might lose water by evaporation.

248
00:26:36,895 --> 00:26:41,229
The stem itself is green
and has taken over the job of photosynthesis.

249
00:26:41,533 --> 00:26:44,093
The thorns protect the young plant from browsers,

250
00:26:44,269 --> 00:26:50,071
but they also break up the wind currents,
so that the cactus is wrapped in still air,

251
00:26:50,308 --> 00:26:53,903
and evaporation of moisture
from the stem is kept very low.

252
00:26:55,347 --> 00:27:01,980
These huge saguaro cacti can live
for over 200 years and stand nearly 50 feet high.

253
00:27:09,160 --> 00:27:12,095
If I was dying of thirst in this desert,

254
00:27:12,263 --> 00:27:17,826
I'd be tempted to cut inside that saguaro
and raid its reservoir of water.

255
00:27:18,003 --> 00:27:23,305
But that would probably be a mistake, because
the water in the saguaro contains a poison.

256
00:27:23,608 --> 00:27:28,978
But there are lots of desert-living plants
which do have drinkable water within them,

257
00:27:29,147 --> 00:27:33,607
and desert-living people all over the world
have become expert botanists,

258
00:27:33,785 --> 00:27:38,449
able to recognise
from just the tiniest little leaflet or straggling

259
00:27:38,623 --> 00:27:40,523
where they can get a good drink.

260
00:27:43,495 --> 00:27:47,454
None are more skilled
than the Bushman people of the Kalahari.

261
00:28:01,012 --> 00:28:04,812
By the end of the dry season,
all their water holes have usually dried up.

262
00:28:05,083 --> 00:28:08,814
For liquid, they must now
rely almost entirely on plants

263
00:28:08,987 --> 00:28:11,615
and their ability to recognise the right ones.

264
00:28:21,099 --> 00:28:24,466
This tuber is a kind
that provides good drinking water.

265
00:28:34,779 --> 00:28:37,077
This much larger one is also full of liquid,

266
00:28:37,248 --> 00:28:40,445
but, unfortunately,
it's so bitter, it's undrinkable.

267
00:28:40,885 --> 00:28:42,819
But it's worth having nonetheless.

268
00:28:46,658 --> 00:28:49,627
To extract the water,
the root must be grated and pulped.

269
00:29:21,092 --> 00:29:23,526
The bigger root is grated as well.

270
00:29:28,800 --> 00:29:32,361
Drier though it is, it still contains valuable flu

271
00:29:38,576 --> 00:29:42,410
Since it cannot be drunk,
people use it to moisten their skin,

272
00:29:42,614 --> 00:29:46,516
and as it evaporates,
it brings a delicious refreshing coolness.

273
00:30:07,038 --> 00:30:09,029
200 miles west of the Kalahari

274
00:30:09,207 --> 00:30:12,665
lies an even hotter, drier desert: The Namib.

275
00:30:13,211 --> 00:30:16,840
Very few plants indeed
can survive in these parched sands.

276
00:30:17,415 --> 00:30:22,045
Patches of grass sprouted
after a rare shower and lived for a few weeks,

277
00:30:22,320 --> 00:30:27,155
but that was over four years ago
and now only the dusty withered stems are left.

278
00:30:27,559 --> 00:30:31,086
There is one plant that grows here, though,
and nowhere else,

279
00:30:31,329 --> 00:30:33,729
and one that is very odd indeed.

280
00:30:37,135 --> 00:30:41,799
The scientist who first described
this extraordinary plant

281
00:30:41,973 --> 00:30:47,172
was an Austrian called Dr Welwitsch,
who came here in the last century.

282
00:30:47,478 --> 00:30:52,006
He discovered many plants in Africa,
but this perhaps is his most famous

283
00:30:52,183 --> 00:30:55,516
and the one that bears his name: Welwitschia.

284
00:30:55,854 --> 00:30:58,288
There are male plants and female plants.

285
00:30:58,656 --> 00:31:02,786
This one is a female,
and these are the female's structures.

286
00:31:03,094 --> 00:31:05,392
These are young ones, which sprouted this year,

287
00:31:05,563 --> 00:31:08,327
and these are
fully developed ones from last year.

288
00:31:08,566 --> 00:31:13,560
In structure, they are very
like the cones of a fir tree.

289
00:31:16,307 --> 00:31:20,107
The male plant has growths
rather like stamens, which produce pollen,

290
00:31:20,311 --> 00:31:24,213
so welwitschia seems to be
a kind of link between coniferous trees

291
00:31:24,382 --> 00:31:26,612
and true flowering plants.

292
00:31:29,921 --> 00:31:32,913
But the oddest thing about it are its leaves.

293
00:31:33,157 --> 00:31:38,493
They grow from the top of its central trunk,
and do so extremely slowly,

294
00:31:38,663 --> 00:31:43,430
so that this leaf would have taken
about 70 years to be produced.

295
00:31:43,635 --> 00:31:48,436
But if it hadn't frayed at the edges,
it would be about 400 yards long,

296
00:31:48,673 --> 00:31:54,373
because this individual plant
is thought to be about 1,500 years old.

297
00:31:57,081 --> 00:32:02,417
It's these amazing leaves that enable the plant
to collect water in this rainless country.

298
00:32:02,754 --> 00:32:05,552
The Namib lies close
to the western coast of Africa.

299
00:32:05,723 --> 00:32:09,819
At dawn,
fogs regularly roll in from the Atlantic.

300
00:32:10,128 --> 00:32:15,430
As they swirl around the welwitschia,
their moisture condenses on the huge leaves.

301
00:32:16,067 --> 00:32:19,730
Some droplets are absorbed
through cracks in the leaves' skin.

302
00:32:22,240 --> 00:32:25,266
The rest is channelled down to the ground,

303
00:32:25,443 --> 00:32:29,072
where it's sucked up by roots
just below the surface of the sand.

304
00:32:31,482 --> 00:32:35,942
The fog also provides life-saving drinks
for some of the desert animals.

305
00:32:36,220 --> 00:32:38,085
These are darkling beetles.

306
00:32:38,356 --> 00:32:42,759
On foggy mornings, they climb
to the top of the dunes and stand in lines,

307
00:32:43,027 --> 00:32:46,622
head down, abdomen up, slowly marking time.

308
00:33:08,486 --> 00:33:11,978
Droplets of water
from the fog collect on legs and antennae,

309
00:33:12,256 --> 00:33:17,216
and then, as the beetle lifts its feet,
trickle down towards its mouth.

310
00:33:22,734 --> 00:33:26,170
The Namib's fogs never penetrate very far inland.

311
00:33:26,704 --> 00:33:32,108
Deserts that lie far from the sea, therefore,
can never receive moisture in such a way.

312
00:33:32,543 --> 00:33:35,239
Their water must come from the clouds.

313
00:33:38,249 --> 00:33:41,218
Often, the clouds that do build up above a desert

314
00:33:41,386 --> 00:33:46,517
sail off elsewhere without bursting,
and the land remains parched.

315
00:33:56,200 --> 00:34:01,900
But when eventually rain does come,
it's the trigger for immediate and urgent action.

316
00:34:05,043 --> 00:34:09,412
One or two drops are all that's necessary
to activate these dead stems.

317
00:34:20,224 --> 00:34:22,419
Within half a minute, they're upright.

318
00:34:26,497 --> 00:34:29,591
Other plants begin to open their seed-heads.

319
00:34:37,809 --> 00:34:39,902
None of these plants is alive.

320
00:34:40,211 --> 00:34:44,978
All their movements are simply
the result of the dead tissues absorbing water.

321
00:34:56,394 --> 00:35:00,353
The dead seed-heads have held the seeds
securely during the drought.

322
00:35:02,900 --> 00:35:07,701
Now, since it's rained and there's a chance
of them germinating, they can be distributed.

323
00:35:10,408 --> 00:35:14,276
For some plants, the heavy raindrops
are enough to dislodge the seeds.

324
00:35:33,297 --> 00:35:38,860
Others utilise the physical effects
of absorbing water to shoot the seeds away.

325
00:35:48,713 --> 00:35:52,615
Now the seeds themselves,
lying on the ground, begin to move.

326
00:35:58,756 --> 00:36:01,623
As the hairs absorb water,
they swell and stiffen,

327
00:36:01,792 --> 00:36:04,158
so raising the seed into the right position

328
00:36:04,328 --> 00:36:08,662
for its first rootlets
to strike straight downwards into the ground.

329
00:36:12,036 --> 00:36:15,836
But sometimes in the Arizona desert,
maybe once in several years,

330
00:36:16,007 --> 00:36:20,034
there are real cloudbursts,
and the desert is transformed.

331
00:37:10,661 --> 00:37:14,358
In the aftermath of the flood, new faces appear.

332
00:37:24,475 --> 00:37:28,571
A spadefoot toad.
The males are the first to emerge from the soil

333
00:37:28,746 --> 00:37:31,874
where they've been buried
for the past year or more.

334
00:37:38,656 --> 00:37:42,956
Hastily, they make their way to one of the pools
that have appeared in the desert,

335
00:37:43,160 --> 00:37:46,186
and there they begin calling,
summoning the females.

336
00:37:47,632 --> 00:37:52,535
There is great urgency. If they don't mate
on this night, they may have lost their chance.

337
00:38:10,921 --> 00:38:16,086
Within 24 hours, the eggs have been laid
and fertilised and are beginning to hatch.

338
00:38:26,737 --> 00:38:30,298
A day later, the pool is full of tadpoles.

339
00:38:33,844 --> 00:38:36,335
Other creatures
have appeared as if from nowhere.

340
00:38:36,514 --> 00:38:41,281
Fairy shrimp have hatched from tiny eggs
blown with the dust all over the desert.

341
00:38:46,924 --> 00:38:48,619
The tadpoles are growing fast.

342
00:38:48,793 --> 00:38:52,354
These with small mouths
feed on algae and bacteria,

343
00:38:52,530 --> 00:38:55,897
a diet usually abundant in these desert pools.

344
00:39:04,075 --> 00:39:08,307
But other individuals from the same batch of eggs
develop bigger heads

345
00:39:08,479 --> 00:39:12,745
and more powerfully muscled jaws.
They have become meat-eaters.

346
00:39:16,854 --> 00:39:21,348
Not all pools will provide enough food for them,
but here they are fortunate.

347
00:39:32,069 --> 00:39:34,936
They even eat their vegetarian brothers.

348
00:39:40,978 --> 00:39:45,415
With such a protein-rich diet,
they grow even faster than the algal feeders.

349
00:39:45,583 --> 00:39:51,146
Here they are the favoured few, more likely
to survive if the pool evaporates quickly.

350
00:39:51,322 --> 00:39:54,052
They're an insurance
for the continuation of the species,

351
00:39:54,225 --> 00:39:57,490
for which the payments
are their vegetarian brothers.

352
00:39:59,630 --> 00:40:04,431
But now the pool is shrinking fast.
Another couple of days and it's almost gone.

353
00:40:04,602 --> 00:40:08,436
Unless there is another shower of rain,
all the tadpoles will die.

354
00:40:14,979 --> 00:40:17,539
If they do die, their bodies will not be wasted.

355
00:40:17,715 --> 00:40:22,311
They will decompose and fertilise the sand,
so that when the next rains come

356
00:40:22,486 --> 00:40:27,617
and another pool collects in this hollow,
the algae will grow fast and well.

357
00:40:31,028 --> 00:40:34,225
Ants are quick to attack the stricken tadpoles.

358
00:40:37,468 --> 00:40:40,801
But at the last minute, there is a reprieve.
A shower of rain.

359
00:40:40,971 --> 00:40:44,998
Some tadpoles, though they still have a tail,
now have legs,

360
00:40:45,176 --> 00:40:49,203
and they're able to leave the puddle
just two weeks after hatching.

361
00:40:56,754 --> 00:41:01,054
Even among this tiny proportion of survivors,
the mortality will be huge.

362
00:41:01,292 --> 00:41:05,388
But with luck,
a few will join the adults as the desert dries

363
00:41:05,563 --> 00:41:11,126
and bury themselves to wait for
the next shower of rain many months from now.

364
00:41:33,224 --> 00:41:36,853
For several weeks after the rains,
the desert blooms.

365
00:41:37,027 --> 00:41:41,623
The seeds shed by the shrivelled plants
have sprouted and burst into flower.

366
00:41:41,799 --> 00:41:44,563
And deserts after rain all over the world,

367
00:41:44,735 --> 00:41:48,068
in Arizona and Australia,
the Namib and the Sahara,

368
00:41:48,239 --> 00:41:53,199
put on one of the most dazzling displays
of colour that you can see anywhere.

369
00:42:38,422 --> 00:42:40,890
Deserts are shaped by the sun and the wind.

370
00:42:41,058 --> 00:42:44,824
The roasting of rocks during the day,
their chilling during cold nights,

371
00:42:44,995 --> 00:42:47,156
eventually makes their surface crumble.

372
00:42:47,398 --> 00:42:50,128
Some of their minerals splinter and fray into dust

373
00:42:50,301 --> 00:42:55,534
But quartz, the commonest, is very hard,
and that remains as grains of sand.

374
00:42:55,773 --> 00:43:01,678
The wind catches them, sweeps them away,
and collects them together as sand dunes.

375
00:43:29,173 --> 00:43:31,437
Dunes may be hundreds of feet high.

376
00:43:31,709 --> 00:43:33,506
If the wind is more or less constant,

377
00:43:33,677 --> 00:43:38,307
it blows the grains up the gently sloping side
and over the steep front

378
00:43:38,515 --> 00:43:41,882
so that the dune marches slowly
across the desert.

379
00:43:55,899 --> 00:44:00,529
Trudging up the face of a dune like this
is extremely hard work.

380
00:44:00,771 --> 00:44:03,262
The sand is so dry

381
00:44:03,507 --> 00:44:08,001
and the grains are so polished
by the wind rubbing them together

382
00:44:08,212 --> 00:44:11,739
that the surface is continuously on the move,

383
00:44:11,915 --> 00:44:15,146
and it's quite impossible
to get any firm foothold.

384
00:44:15,386 --> 00:44:18,878
And, of course, that problem faces notjust me,

385
00:44:19,056 --> 00:44:22,685
but all the animals that live among these dunes.

386
00:44:23,060 --> 00:44:28,521
Some of them have developed some extremely
ingenious solutions to the difficulty.

387
00:44:30,768 --> 00:44:35,899
These extraordinary tracks have been made
by one of the swiftest movers across the dunes.

388
00:44:40,077 --> 00:44:42,068
The sidewinder, a kind of rattlesnake.

389
00:44:42,312 --> 00:44:46,146
It skims across the surface
by throwing its body into loops,

390
00:44:46,316 --> 00:44:49,149
which only touch the sand at two points.

391
00:44:49,787 --> 00:44:51,880
This not only enables it to move fast,

392
00:44:52,056 --> 00:44:55,082
but keeps most of its body off the hot surface.

393
00:45:01,298 --> 00:45:05,667
At midday,
the sand is so hot that it's painful to touch.

394
00:45:05,869 --> 00:45:11,239
The Namib fringe-toed lizard
prevents its feet from scorching by gymnastics.

395
00:45:28,592 --> 00:45:30,116
But eventually it gets so hot,

396
00:45:30,294 --> 00:45:35,027
the only thing to do is to shelter
beneath the surface where the sand is very cool.

397
00:45:37,067 --> 00:45:40,400
Burrowing through this kind of sand
also has problems.

398
00:45:40,571 --> 00:45:45,270
An animal can't construct a tunnel
like a mouse hole or a rabbit burrow

399
00:45:45,442 --> 00:45:48,502
because the sand simply falls in behind it.

400
00:45:48,879 --> 00:45:53,179
So instead it has to wriggle through the sand
almost as though it's swimming.

401
00:45:53,417 --> 00:45:56,181
And that's precisely
what this little creature does.

402
00:45:57,020 --> 00:46:02,014
It may look like a worm,
but in fact it's a lizard that has lost its legs.

403
00:46:02,259 --> 00:46:05,922
You can see that it's a lizard
when you look closely at its face.

404
00:46:07,731 --> 00:46:12,794
Its mouth and eyes are covered by
transparent scales that protect them in the sand.

405
00:46:13,070 --> 00:46:18,133
It's a blind skink. It lives by hunting
for insects below the sand surface,

406
00:46:18,308 --> 00:46:22,369
and when I put it down,
it'll wriggle away, just like an eel.

407
00:46:29,186 --> 00:46:33,088
The most extremely specialised
of these hunters in the dunes

408
00:46:33,257 --> 00:46:36,715
is not a reptile but a mammal.

409
00:46:37,094 --> 00:46:41,394
It's very rarely seen,
and your best chance of finding it is at night.

410
00:46:45,769 --> 00:46:51,571
These are its tracks, and that depression
a place where it caught something.

411
00:46:59,650 --> 00:47:01,117
This is where it has burrowed again,

412
00:47:01,285 --> 00:47:05,051
and where, with luck,
and if I dig very fast, I might catch it.

413
00:47:14,798 --> 00:47:17,323
Here it is, a golden mole.

414
00:47:20,003 --> 00:47:23,632
This one is a baby,
but like its parents, it's totally blind.

415
00:47:23,841 --> 00:47:28,540
Eyes are of no use beneath the sand.
Nor are ears, and it hasn't got those either.

416
00:47:28,745 --> 00:47:31,509
Its head ends in a leathery wedge

417
00:47:31,682 --> 00:47:36,142
with which it pushes through the sand,
or alternatively, through my fingers.

418
00:47:50,200 --> 00:47:52,725
Golden moles will eat quite large creatures:

419
00:47:52,903 --> 00:47:55,565
A blind skink, if it encounters one,

420
00:47:55,739 --> 00:47:59,835
or other creatures that might be wandering
unsuspectingly across the surface.

421
00:48:13,957 --> 00:48:16,084
A cricket would do nicely.

422
00:49:05,709 --> 00:49:10,373
The great sandy deserts of the world
in Arabia, central Australia and the Sahara

423
00:49:10,547 --> 00:49:13,641
have repelled
even the hardiest of human travellers.

424
00:49:13,817 --> 00:49:18,481
Few people have managed
to survive in them for long totally unaided.

425
00:49:18,789 --> 00:49:22,816
But some manage to make regularjourneys
through these wildernesses.

426
00:49:27,864 --> 00:49:32,164
These are the Tuareg. They travel
from one side of the Sahara to the other,

427
00:49:32,336 --> 00:49:37,638
carrying great cakes of salt,
which they trade for cloth and grain and dates.

428
00:49:52,022 --> 00:49:54,115
But even the Tuareg
can only make these journeys

429
00:49:54,291 --> 00:49:58,091
with the help of an animal desert specialist:
The camel.

430
00:49:59,229 --> 00:50:03,359
They have to take all the food
that they and their camels will need with them.

431
00:50:08,071 --> 00:50:11,472
Water is carried in skins
slung beneath the camels' bellies

432
00:50:11,641 --> 00:50:15,133
to minimise evaporation
and keep it as cool as possible.

433
00:50:17,381 --> 00:50:20,407
The camel is marvellously adapted
to life in the desert.

434
00:50:20,650 --> 00:50:24,177
Its toes are reduced to two,
but connected by skin,

435
00:50:24,354 --> 00:50:27,721
so that they splay out on the sand
and don't sink deeply into it.

436
00:50:35,198 --> 00:50:40,158
Their nostrils are closable, so they can
shut out sand grains during a sandstorm.

437
00:50:49,679 --> 00:50:54,446
The hair on their body is restricted
to the top, where it shields against the sun.

438
00:50:54,618 --> 00:50:57,917
Elsewhere, for coolness,
their skin is virtually naked.

439
00:50:58,355 --> 00:51:02,314
Their hump is full of fat,
which in emergencies can be converted to water.

440
00:51:02,559 --> 00:51:05,221
But the process wastes the fat's calories

441
00:51:05,395 --> 00:51:09,092
and is only used
when the camel hasn't drunk for a long time.

442
00:51:09,299 --> 00:51:13,531
It can live without liquid water
for four times as long as a donkey

443
00:51:13,703 --> 00:51:16,137
and ten times as long as a man.

444
00:51:17,074 --> 00:51:20,134
But eventually even a camel has to drink.

445
00:51:28,218 --> 00:51:33,451
At one or two places in the Sahara, water
can be reached by digging deep into the ground.

446
00:51:33,690 --> 00:51:36,887
Here, camels can at last refill their stomachs,

447
00:51:37,060 --> 00:51:39,153
and they take a lot of filling.

448
00:52:10,627 --> 00:52:13,357
If the Tuareg
can't cross the Sahara without the camel,

449
00:52:13,530 --> 00:52:15,760
the camel can't do so without the Tuareg,

450
00:52:15,932 --> 00:52:19,800
for only men can dig for the essential water.

451
00:52:22,706 --> 00:52:26,608
Spring water is the key
which unlocks abundant fertility.

452
00:52:26,943 --> 00:52:28,808
At Saharan oases like this one,

453
00:52:28,979 --> 00:52:32,779
all kinds of crops can be produced
from the sand if it's watered:

454
00:52:33,049 --> 00:52:35,609
Dates and vegetables and fruit.

455
00:52:35,852 --> 00:52:39,379
Insects whizz and buzz
over the gurgling irrigation channels

456
00:52:39,556 --> 00:52:42,252
and birds sing in the palm trees.

457
00:52:44,561 --> 00:52:48,190
But these small islands of life
are under constant threat.

458
00:52:48,632 --> 00:52:54,036
If the wind veers and blows steadily
from another direction, nothing can stop the sand.

459
00:53:04,614 --> 00:53:09,278
Eventually the advancing dunes
may well overwhelm this oasis,

460
00:53:09,452 --> 00:53:11,386
and then this small world

461
00:53:11,555 --> 00:53:17,323
that's been brought into existence in the desert
by the presence of water will be extinguished.

462
00:53:17,661 --> 00:53:20,926
The force that drives the dune,
of course, is the wind,

463
00:53:21,164 --> 00:53:24,395
and the wind, too,
has its own world of living organisms.

464
00:53:24,634 --> 00:53:27,432
Many of the spiders and beetles

465
00:53:27,604 --> 00:53:31,802
and other insects
that live in the oasis arrived by air.

466
00:53:32,042 --> 00:53:37,241
And many of the plants, too, coming
as windblown seeds or carried by birds.

467
00:53:37,480 --> 00:53:42,747
And that world, the world of the wind
and the sky, we'll be exploring next time.

