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A strangely shaped mountain catching the clouds
high above the jungles of Venezuela.

2
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Its summit rocks have been carved
into a multitude of grotesque shapes.

3
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The sculptor, an agent that is continuously at wor
on much of the landscape of our planet: Rainwater.

4
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It washes over the rock, eroding it chemically.

5
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It permeates the cracks, freezes,
and chips it off in flakes and splinters.

6
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As the water flows downwards,
it starts on a long journey

7
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that will take it from the mountains to the sea,

8
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and here, with a leap of over 3,000 feet,
the highest made by any river,

9
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it forms the Angel Falls.

10
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Ourjourney begins
not far from that towering waterfall

11
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on the high moorlands of Peru,
15,000 feet above the sea.

12
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Water is a very extraordinary
and very precious substance,

13
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the only one on earth, apart from mercury,

14
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which remains liquid
at normal temperatures and pressures,

15
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so it's an essential part of the bodies
of all living organisms, animals and plant.

16
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Without it, life would come to an end.

17
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But this particular water is a very rare kind.

18
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97% of the water on earth is salty, the sea,

19
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but this was distilled from the surface of the sea
by the heat of the sun,

20
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rose into the sky as vapour, condensed to form
clouds and then fell again as rain and snow

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to form streams of pure, fresh, sweet water.

22
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But this particular stream
is on its way to the sea a very long way away,

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because these are the Andes,
and this is one of the many streams

24
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that can claim to be a source
of the biggest river on earth, the Amazon.

25
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The difficulties of living
in this young and violent river are formidable.

26
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Its waters are thick with powdered rock and mud,
but they have gathered few nutrients,

27
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and they rush down the valley
at tremendous speed.

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Anything that lives here
has to be a prodigious swimmer.

29
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And these are. They're torrent ducks.

30
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They exploit the swirls and eddies
with consummate skill,

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paddling with strokes of their large webbed feet.

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They head upstream, bracing themselves
against rocks with their stiff quilled tail,

33
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and using small horny spurs on the wrists
of their wings to give them purchase.

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A pair owns a stretch of the river, working
their way up it to the frontier of their territory

35
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when they abandon themselves to the flood
and are swept downstream to begin again.

36
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Anchored firmly to the rocks is a kind of moss.

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Mosses are primitive, ancient plants that
appeared on earth long before flowering plants.

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This torrent moss is found in young rivers
and streams all over the world,

39
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and wherever it grows,
whether in the Andes or here in Europe,

40
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it provides shelter for a multitude of insect larv

41
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In summer, these creatures are transformed
and fly briefly above the river to mate,

42
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but most of their lives are spent underwater.

43
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Some are streamlined against the current.

44
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The caddis fly larvae live in protective tubes,
the hollow stem of a reed,

45
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or a construction of bits of wood
stuck together with silk.

46
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Some weight themselves down by building
their shelters from heavy grains of sand.

47
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The larva of the blackfly
holds on to a pebble with its back end,

48
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while it grabs at food particles that are swept
past it with the antennae on its head.

49
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It grips the rock with a ring of hooks,
but even if it loses its hold, all is not lost.

50
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It has a lifeline of silk
which it has attached to its chosen pebble.

51
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Having hauled itself back,
it now has to get a new grip.

52
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It spins a tiny pad of silk
from a spinneretjust beneath its mouth,

53
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then it fixes its hooks into that.

54
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The nets with which it collects its food
are modified antennae,

55
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and the larva brushes off what they catch
with alternate flicks of its mouthparts.

56
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Not all caddis larvae live in solid tubes.

57
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This one builds a construction that serves
both as a home and a food-gathering device.

58
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It uses its silk to produce a funnel-shaped
scaffold of criss-crossing threads.

59
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Undulating its body
is a way of aiding its breathing,

60
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for the movement speeds the flow
of oxygen-bearing water through the funnel.

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It holds on with the hooks at the back...

62
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...leaving its jaws and front legs
free to do the construction work.

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This blackfly larva wasn't saved by its lifeline.

64
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But the caddis fly larva itself, ferocious and art
trapper though it is, is also at risk.

65
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The dipper relishes it.

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Dippers live both in the rivers
of North America and Europe.

67
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Underwater, their swimming technique
is quite different from the torrent ducks'.

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Its feet are not webbed like a duck's, so
it propels itself with its wings, flying underwate

69
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In similar cold, fast-flowing streams
in North America

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lives a kind of giant newt, the hellbender.

71
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When it's young,
it also, like a dipper, takes insect larvae,

72
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but it can grow to over two feet long,
and then it seeks much bigger prey.

73
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A crayfish would suit it admirably.

74
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A narrow escape. The crayfish saved itself at
the last moment by a convulsive snap of its tail,

75
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but the hellbender doesn't give up easily.

76
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Both animals try to keep out of the current
and habitually creep into crevices.

77
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But that sometimes is a mistake.

78
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Streams that tumble down
the sides of the valleys and feed young rivers

79
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have their own population.

80
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In Malaysia, the big-headed turtle clambers
around the waterfalls, using its tail as a prop.

81
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In West African waterfalls, and nowhere else,
lives the extraordinary hairy frog.

82
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Its so-called hairs are filaments of skin
on its flanks which act as gills,

83
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helping it to absorb oxygen from the water.

84
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And, almost as unusual,
it has claws that help it grip the slippery stones

85
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The many sources of the Amazon began
as rivulets on the eastern flanks of the Andes.

86
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Now, 5,000 feet lower down, each has grown
beyond recognition and cut its own zigzag valley.

87
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White water, tumbling down the valley wall,
joins the brown water of a larger tributary,

88
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heavy with mud and sediment.

89
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And as it gets bigger and bigger,
so it becomes more and more powerful.

90
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It's the dry season at the moment
and the river is comparatively low.

91
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But during the rains, when it's in spate,
its waters rise up over here

92
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and the sheer volume and weight and force
of them can shift boulders the size of these.

93
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The volume and speed of its waters
are not the river's only weapons.

94
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It also has teeth.

95
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And in this empty rainy-season part of its bed,
you can see them.

96
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Sand and gravel, fragments of rock that
have been eroded from higher up in its course

97
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and which the river hurls with enormous force
at the rocks of its river bed.

98
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With such tools,
it can carve away the sides of mountains.

99
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Young, vigorous rivers transform the land,
demolishing the mountains,

100
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breaking down the debris into smaller particles
and carrying them away downstream.

101
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This river in China is perpetually so turbid
that it's called the Huang Ho, the Yellow River.

102
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It carries a bigger load of sediment
than any river in the world.

103
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During floods, each cubic yard of water contains
over 2,000 pounds of soil and pulverised rock.

104
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Rivers in the full vigour of their youth
are terrifyingly strong.

105
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They roll great boulders along their beds,

106
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they cut away at the banks, undermining trees
which crash into the waters and are swept away.

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When a river encounters a band of unusually
hard rock, such as an ancient flow of basalt lava,

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its progress is temporarily slowed.

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It spreads out across the barrier
and then tumbles over the front edge.

110
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So are formed some of the loveliest cascades.

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These are the falls of Iguacu
on the border of Brazil and Paraguay.

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They can't compare in height with the Angel Falls,

113
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but in terms of the volume of water that
passes over them, they are incomparably bigger.

114
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The falling waters
pound away at the base of the falls,

115
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undercutting the basalt
until blocks split off the face.

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So the falls steadily work their way upriver,
leaving downstream a deep gorge,

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and animals live even here,
within the falls themselves.

118
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Swifts perch on the rock face behind the cascade.

119
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Every evening
they congregate high above Iguacu.

120
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After a day of hawking for insects,
they're ready to roost.

121
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And where safer
than behind a screen of falling water?

122
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Some dive down with such speed
that they shoot right through the fall.

123
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And now the river
has left the mountains far behind

124
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and has changed its character considerably.

125
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It's bigger, it's broader,
and its waters carry not only sand and gravel

126
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but rich nutrients
washed in from its vegetation-covered banks.

127
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And after it's gone over its last rapids
and tumbled over its last fall,

128
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it becomes a very different river indeed.

129
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It's middle-aged:
Ampler, less violent, more sluggish and richer.

130
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On the banks of the Amazon tributaries,
the jungle stands thick.

131
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Birds like the sun bittern
stalk quietly in search of a meal.

132
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Huge fish cruise through the slow waters.

133
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The arapaima, one of the largest
of freshwater fish, grows over six feet long.

134
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The Amazon contains over 3,000 different kinds
of fish. That's more than live in all the Atlantic

135
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Rays almost certainly evolved in the sea,

136
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but this species has managed to make the change
to fresh water and lives high up the Amazon.

137
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Many fish have evolved here in fresh water

138
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and become suited to all its variations
of depth, speed and chemical composition,

139
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to muddy water and to clear, to stretches that are
thick with plants and places where there are none.

140
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Their variety is enormous.

141
00:18:28,140 --> 00:18:31,940
Take, for example, just one family: The catfish.

142
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They're bottom-dwelling fish, with feelers
on their snouts that have sense organs on them,

143
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so the fish can feel and taste their way
through the thick, muddy water or at night.

144
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There are small ones and immense ones,

145
00:18:46,825 --> 00:18:50,454
some that give electric shocks
and others that swim upside down.

146
00:18:50,796 --> 00:18:53,356
Those in fast-flowing waters

147
00:18:53,532 --> 00:18:58,026
have suckers on their chins or undersides
with which they cling to rocks.

148
00:18:59,838 --> 00:19:07,074
In South America alone,
there are 1,200 different species of catfish.

149
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In these crowded waters,
many fish give special protection to their young

150
00:19:38,143 --> 00:19:40,202
for the first few weeks of their lives.

151
00:19:40,546 --> 00:19:43,879
This fish, the discus, goes even further.

152
00:19:44,116 --> 00:19:46,914
It provides its fry with special food.

153
00:19:47,452 --> 00:19:51,320
The parents exude
a nutritious slime from their skin

154
00:19:51,490 --> 00:19:55,688
and the young graze over their flanks,
feeding on it.

155
00:20:29,328 --> 00:20:33,731
After a week, they're big enough
to feed on small particles floating in the water.

156
00:20:46,578 --> 00:20:52,414
These are now a month old and have already
assumed the disc-like shape of their parents.

157
00:20:52,718 --> 00:20:57,678
They're becoming independent,
but they've strayed past the lair of an electric e

158
00:21:00,959 --> 00:21:02,551
The eel has poor eyesight,

159
00:21:02,728 --> 00:21:07,825
but it detects the presence of objects around it
with short electric discharges, a kind of radar.

160
00:21:10,235 --> 00:21:16,003
It rises for a gulp of air. This time the young
discus seem to have escaped detection.

161
00:21:24,283 --> 00:21:29,050
But the eel can also produce
a major electric shock which stuns its prey.

162
00:21:44,403 --> 00:21:49,170
It releases its capture.
Perhaps so small a fish is not worth eating.

163
00:21:49,408 --> 00:21:54,539
The young discus, apart from the marks of
the eel's jaws on its flanks, seems no worse off.

164
00:21:56,448 --> 00:22:00,885
One Amazonian fish puts its eggs
beyond the reach of any water-living predator:

165
00:22:01,119 --> 00:22:03,178
On leaves overhanging a river.

166
00:22:05,157 --> 00:22:07,751
A pair of splashing tetras are courting.

167
00:22:10,195 --> 00:22:13,995
They curve their bodies
and, for an instant, leap clear of the water.

168
00:22:16,034 --> 00:22:18,628
Sometimes a third fish joins in.

169
00:22:24,343 --> 00:22:26,174
The bigger of the two is the male.

170
00:22:27,779 --> 00:22:32,409
For a moment the pair hang on the leaf,
supported by the suction of the male's floppy fins

171
00:22:35,987 --> 00:22:42,051
Again and again, they jump. In this one moment,
the female lays her eggs and drops off,

172
00:22:42,227 --> 00:22:44,821
and the male fertilises them and follows her.

173
00:22:45,630 --> 00:22:48,531
Each time, they leave behind a dozen or so eggs.

174
00:22:55,574 --> 00:22:59,101
A few infertile eggs drop off,
but they're not wasted.

175
00:22:59,311 --> 00:23:03,213
Eventually as many as 200 eggs
are safely placed out of harm's way,

176
00:23:03,415 --> 00:23:07,283
and the river can be
an exceedingly dangerous place.

177
00:23:08,720 --> 00:23:12,053
Piranha, the most savage of all the Amazon's fish.

178
00:23:12,324 --> 00:23:18,024
A swimming capybara suddenly realises their
presence and tries to retreat, but it's too late.

179
00:23:23,902 --> 00:23:27,360
The splashing, the taste of blood
spreading through the water,

180
00:23:27,539 --> 00:23:33,535
attracts more of the shoal until there are
hundreds, all possessed by a frenzy for flesh.

181
00:23:33,745 --> 00:23:39,377
None are much more than a foot long, but their
teeth are sharp enough to cut clean through bone.

182
00:23:48,460 --> 00:23:50,792
Within minutes, there's little left.

183
00:23:54,499 --> 00:24:00,438
As the river gets older, it slows down. A minor
obstacle in its path is now enough to deflect it.

184
00:24:00,605 --> 00:24:06,942
The water flowing round the outside of a bend
speeds up and cuts away at the bank.

185
00:24:07,179 --> 00:24:09,443
On the inside, where the current is slow,

186
00:24:09,614 --> 00:24:14,017
the water drops its load of sediment
to form a shoal.

187
00:24:14,186 --> 00:24:19,715
So the bend becomes more exaggerated
as the elderly river swings from side to side

188
00:24:19,891 --> 00:24:22,223
in a series of loops and meanders.

189
00:24:22,928 --> 00:24:28,867
One bend may approach another until the neck
of land between them is so narrow it collapses.

190
00:24:29,100 --> 00:24:34,766
Then the river takes the shorter course
and the meander is left isolated as a curving lake

191
00:24:35,574 --> 00:24:38,236
There the water, at last, is still.

192
00:24:38,710 --> 00:24:43,841
Plants no longer have to fight against a current,
and the lakes become clogged with vegetation.

193
00:24:45,750 --> 00:24:52,451
These are the largest floating leaves of all,
the leaves of the famous giant Amazon lily.

194
00:24:53,558 --> 00:24:57,221
Covering the water with leaves of this size
is very aggressive,

195
00:24:57,395 --> 00:25:02,594
for it cuts out the light below,
making it difficult for other plants to grow there

196
00:25:02,834 --> 00:25:09,398
The upturned rims of the great pads, as they
grow, thrust to one side all other floating plants

197
00:25:10,141 --> 00:25:14,168
To prevent these leaves being destroyed
by being eaten by fish,

198
00:25:14,346 --> 00:25:19,215
they are protected with very effective
and ferocious spines underneath,

199
00:25:19,384 --> 00:25:22,581
as you can see most clearly
on this half-opened bud.

200
00:25:24,256 --> 00:25:30,126
It can develop from the size of a soup plate to
a huge emerald disc six feet across in a few days,

201
00:25:30,362 --> 00:25:33,229
growing at a rate of one square inch a minute.

202
00:25:33,765 --> 00:25:35,699
The flowers grow with similar speed.

203
00:25:35,967 --> 00:25:41,997
Each opens first in the evening and remains
with its petals spread and fragrant all night.

204
00:25:42,207 --> 00:25:48,271
By the morning, however, it's closed again.
But during the night it's taken prisoners.

205
00:25:49,047 --> 00:25:52,141
Inside the flower are beetles.

206
00:25:53,318 --> 00:25:57,049
Sometimes there are as many as 40 of them
in a single bloom.

207
00:25:57,222 --> 00:26:04,094
They're not there just by accident. They've been
attracted by sugary outgrowths in the centre.

208
00:26:04,429 --> 00:26:07,796
While they're trapped in there,
they will feed on those.

209
00:26:07,966 --> 00:26:12,630
This evening the flower will open again,
the beetles will be released

210
00:26:12,804 --> 00:26:18,470
and they'll fly off carrying pollen
to cross-pollinate another lily flower.

211
00:26:18,643 --> 00:26:26,846
And then, afterjust two nights, this bloom,
by now turned purple, will crumple and die.

212
00:26:30,689 --> 00:26:36,628
The leaves, strengthened by air-filled ribs
beneath, can support the weight of a small child,

213
00:26:36,828 --> 00:26:40,764
and water birds can walk over them
with complete confidence and safety.

214
00:26:45,203 --> 00:26:50,140
The jacana has greatly elongated toes
that can spread its weight so effectively

215
00:26:50,308 --> 00:26:55,268
that it can tread on very flimsy leaves
without submerging them.

216
00:26:55,647 --> 00:26:58,673
It seeks insects,
and there are plenty to choose from.

217
00:26:59,551 --> 00:27:03,783
The pond skater sits on a leaf,
but it could sit on the water,

218
00:27:03,989 --> 00:27:08,153
for the surface forms a platform
that supports many small creatures.

219
00:27:08,727 --> 00:27:12,254
Water molecules are bound
by a force akin to magnetism.

220
00:27:12,430 --> 00:27:18,858
They're not attracted to molecules of air above,
so their forces are concentrated sideways,

221
00:27:19,137 --> 00:27:24,575
giving the surface a specially strong tension,
and the pond skater hunts on it.

222
00:27:27,145 --> 00:27:28,976
It's lost its prey under the leaf.

223
00:27:32,951 --> 00:27:38,014
This time there is no escape.
The pond skater stabs its victim and sucks it dry.

224
00:27:39,157 --> 00:27:42,923
It's crucially important for the pond skater
to keep meticulously clean.

225
00:27:43,094 --> 00:27:47,463
The waxy surface of its body
and the hairs on its feet repel water,

226
00:27:47,666 --> 00:27:52,103
but any dirt on them that is wettable
would break the surface-tension film.

227
00:27:53,938 --> 00:27:58,432
They're aggressive insects,
each with its own territory among the lily pads.

228
00:28:01,746 --> 00:28:06,410
Intruders are immediately chased away,
and fights between rivals are common.

229
00:28:11,322 --> 00:28:16,624
The surface-tension film is not only the pond
skaters' platform, but their sounding board.

230
00:28:16,861 --> 00:28:23,562
Through sense organs on their feet, they detect
vibrations caused by the struggles of an insect,

231
00:28:23,768 --> 00:28:26,828
and by bouncing up and down they communicate,

232
00:28:27,005 --> 00:28:32,375
sending keep-out signals to rivals
and come-hither signals to potential mates.

233
00:28:47,192 --> 00:28:51,424
Whirligig beetles use vibrations of the surface fi
in a different way.

234
00:28:51,863 --> 00:28:56,197
They create ripples,
and by monitoring the returning echoes,

235
00:28:56,367 --> 00:28:59,859
they detect the presence of other creatures
and obstacles around them.

236
00:29:04,843 --> 00:29:09,678
They have excellent eyes,
partitioned so that the lower half peers down

237
00:29:09,848 --> 00:29:11,873
to see what's happening in the water beneath.

238
00:29:13,518 --> 00:29:16,453
Hanging from below the surface is another hunter.

239
00:29:16,721 --> 00:29:22,682
Its tail has two tubes which penetrate the surface
film and collect air so that it can breathe.

240
00:29:22,894 --> 00:29:27,490
At its other end, its head has ferocious jaws
with which it seizes its prey.

241
00:29:27,665 --> 00:29:31,863
This is the larva of the giant diving beetle,
and it's caught a tadpole.

242
00:29:34,305 --> 00:29:38,241
It has to come to the surface,
even when it's adult, so it can collect air

243
00:29:38,409 --> 00:29:42,140
to sustain it on its hunting forays
down into deeper waters.

244
00:29:45,650 --> 00:29:52,146
The water boatman patrols the surface not
from above, like the pond skater, but from below.

245
00:29:52,791 --> 00:29:58,923
The two kinds of insects manage to collect
most of the creatures trapped in the surface film.

246
00:29:59,831 --> 00:30:02,823
The camphor beetle
lives on plants at the water's edge,

247
00:30:03,034 --> 00:30:06,333
but it is perhaps the most versatile
of all water-walkers.

248
00:30:07,438 --> 00:30:10,032
It can run over water, like a pond skater.

249
00:30:12,143 --> 00:30:17,672
It can also produce a substance which reduces
the tension between water molecules.

250
00:30:17,916 --> 00:30:23,821
In emergencies it squirts this from its tail,
and with the tension pulling hard at the front,

251
00:30:24,255 --> 00:30:29,352
it shoots across the surface so fast that
the only way to see it clearly is in slow motion.

252
00:30:33,464 --> 00:30:39,494
And, as a final demonstration of its versatility,
it can, like most good beetles, fly.

253
00:30:42,307 --> 00:30:47,267
One particularly ferocious hunter lives
on the edge of lakes and ponds in Europe,

254
00:30:47,612 --> 00:30:48,874
the fishing spider.

255
00:30:50,348 --> 00:30:55,251
It uses the surface-tension film in the same way
as other spiders use their webs.

256
00:30:55,620 --> 00:31:01,559
With its front legs resting delicately
on the surface, it feels for tell-tale vibrations.

257
00:31:05,496 --> 00:31:10,365
But it also has excellent sight
and can see potential prey below the surface.

258
00:31:13,638 --> 00:31:16,539
The stickleback sees only the spider's feet.

259
00:31:26,217 --> 00:31:29,015
That is a greatly slowed-down version of the kill.

260
00:31:29,187 --> 00:31:31,553
In reality, the pounce is rapier-swift

261
00:31:31,723 --> 00:31:35,955
and the stickleback had little chance
once it strayed within range.

262
00:31:59,817 --> 00:32:05,847
The lakes and ponds fed by streams or cut off
from the main river are comparatively small.

263
00:32:06,124 --> 00:32:09,992
But where rivers flow
into basins created by geological faults,

264
00:32:10,228 --> 00:32:12,890
their water accumulates in immense lakes.

265
00:32:13,765 --> 00:32:19,328
This is Lake Prespa in Yugoslavia. Not
the largest of lakes but, even so, 20 miles long.

266
00:32:19,704 --> 00:32:25,199
As the rivers enter its still waters,
they lose their impetus and drop their sediment,

267
00:32:25,543 --> 00:32:29,479
so such lakes are potentially fertile,
and their animal inhabitants,

268
00:32:29,647 --> 00:32:35,108
no longer harassed by a current
nor hemmed in by a shallow bottom or banks,

269
00:32:35,353 --> 00:32:37,218
can proliferate, and they do.

270
00:32:37,855 --> 00:32:40,016
Fish swarm in their waters.

271
00:32:47,098 --> 00:32:52,161
And fish-eating birds, like pelicans
and cormorants, swarm correspondingly.

272
00:33:08,753 --> 00:33:12,018
Land-based creatures haunt its margins.

273
00:33:12,256 --> 00:33:16,716
These may be its most fertile parts,
for the lack of strong currents in a deep lake

274
00:33:16,894 --> 00:33:19,556
can leave the bottom starved of oxygen,

275
00:33:19,998 --> 00:33:25,698
but in the shallows, especially when warmed
by the sun, algae and other plants flourish,

276
00:33:25,903 --> 00:33:31,170
small invertebrates proliferate and there's food
for even the least agile of hunters.

277
00:33:56,000 --> 00:33:59,128
But in one way these large lakes are very special.

278
00:33:59,437 --> 00:34:03,806
This trout, with distinctive red spots,
lives in Lake Ohrid,

279
00:34:03,975 --> 00:34:07,604
a few miles away from Lake Prespa,
but nowhere else in the world.

280
00:34:08,212 --> 00:34:12,046
Isolated in the lake,
communities of fish become very inbred.

281
00:34:12,250 --> 00:34:19,247
Small characteristics that could be lost become
fixed, and the fish evolve into new species.

282
00:34:21,192 --> 00:34:23,854
A similar thing has happened to the shrimps.

283
00:34:30,935 --> 00:34:37,306
And among the many different species of water
snails, several are now unique to Lake Ohrid.

284
00:34:42,513 --> 00:34:47,917
In the heart of Russia lies a stretch of fresh wat
so huge and so ancient

285
00:34:48,086 --> 00:34:54,252
that these processes have produced new species
on a scale unequalled anywhere else in the world,

286
00:34:54,926 --> 00:34:56,484
Lake Baikal.

287
00:34:59,030 --> 00:35:03,797
The lake lies in a great depression
formed by faulting in the earth's crust.

288
00:35:03,968 --> 00:35:10,703
It's 400 miles long and 5,000 feet deep,
the deepest of all lakes.

289
00:35:13,611 --> 00:35:19,243
In the depths of the lake, 1,000 feet down,
lives a unique kind of salmon, the omul.

290
00:35:19,851 --> 00:35:25,187
In summer, they move up into the shallows
and feed on caddis fly larvae and sand hoppers,

291
00:35:25,456 --> 00:35:29,392
and here they're caught in great numbers
for their delicious eating.

292
00:35:40,037 --> 00:35:43,734
But this is only one of Baikal's special inhabitan

293
00:35:43,941 --> 00:35:50,312
Of the 1,200 different kinds of fish
and other animals and 500 plants that it contains,

294
00:35:50,515 --> 00:35:52,574
over 80% are unique.

295
00:35:53,284 --> 00:35:58,847
There are unique molluscs, unique flatworms
and even one unique mammal, the Baikal seal.

296
00:36:03,161 --> 00:36:08,895
This tiny seal is almost certainly descended
from the ringed seal of the Arctic Sea.

297
00:36:09,233 --> 00:36:12,464
Today the lake is over 1,000 miles
away from that sea.

298
00:36:12,837 --> 00:36:17,240
It's likely that their ancestors
arrived during the Ice Age,

299
00:36:17,508 --> 00:36:20,341
when the journey
may have been shorter and easier.

300
00:36:20,811 --> 00:36:25,748
Since then, cut off from other ringed seals,
they've developed in their own way.

301
00:36:27,985 --> 00:36:30,977
The Amazon has no great lake on its course,

302
00:36:31,155 --> 00:36:35,751
so even in its middle stretches
it still carries mud from the Andes.

303
00:36:36,327 --> 00:36:38,989
The Rio Negro, which joins it, is clear,

304
00:36:39,230 --> 00:36:42,996
for it has come from the north-west
where the rocks are hard and bare.

305
00:36:43,534 --> 00:36:49,495
The two immense rivers flow for miles alongside
one another in the same bed, scarcely mixing.

306
00:36:50,408 --> 00:36:53,935
As well as sediment,
they also carry abundant nutrients,

307
00:36:54,145 --> 00:36:57,478
and life on their banks flourishes as never before

308
00:36:59,483 --> 00:37:04,511
Herds of capybara wade through the shallows,
cropping the luxuriant plants.

309
00:37:10,761 --> 00:37:14,026
They're excellent swimmers,
with webs between their toes,

310
00:37:14,232 --> 00:37:19,568
and they have that placing of eyes, ears
and nostrils so valuable to mammals that swim,

311
00:37:19,770 --> 00:37:22,796
on top of the head,
so as the animal lies submerged,

312
00:37:22,974 --> 00:37:27,308
they can see, hear and smell
what's going on above water around them.

313
00:37:42,059 --> 00:37:44,323
Giant otters have a similar head design

314
00:37:44,562 --> 00:37:49,727
and sometimes lift themselves above the surface
to get an even better view of their surroundings.

315
00:37:55,473 --> 00:38:01,901
This Amazonian species is the biggest of
all otters, six feet long and a powerful swimmer.

316
00:38:02,346 --> 00:38:06,806
It's well-equipped with large, webbed feet,
a flattened tail and sensitive whiskers.

317
00:38:07,351 --> 00:38:11,879
A pair lays claim to a stretch of river
by making patches on the bank,

318
00:38:12,056 --> 00:38:14,650
marking them with their own personal smell.

319
00:38:26,871 --> 00:38:32,400
There are otters in many of the great rivers of th
world and they are the most graceful of swimmers.

320
00:38:47,124 --> 00:38:51,220
In India they share
the harvest of fish with the gavial.

321
00:38:51,462 --> 00:38:56,024
Most of the crocodile family, when adult,
feed largely on carrion,

322
00:38:56,233 --> 00:39:01,865
but the gavial eats only fish, and has long,
narrow jaws, studded with abundant teeth,

323
00:39:02,073 --> 00:39:04,064
with which it catches them underwater.

324
00:39:07,111 --> 00:39:09,978
A host of birds also claim a share of the river fi

325
00:39:10,548 --> 00:39:14,644
This is the hooded merganser,
one of a group of ducks called sawbills.

326
00:39:23,961 --> 00:39:29,991
Its beak, like the gavial's jaws, is long and narr
so it's easily snapped together underwater,

327
00:39:30,234 --> 00:39:34,500
and it also has a notched edge
to give it a grip on the slippery fish.

328
00:39:38,109 --> 00:39:43,570
But their feathers trap so much air that the pair
have to work very hard to get down to any depths.

329
00:39:45,082 --> 00:39:47,312
Coming up again is easy enough.

330
00:39:48,352 --> 00:39:52,311
But the meal was a mere mouthful,
and the merganser must look for another one.

331
00:39:56,193 --> 00:39:59,287
And on the bottom lurks more danger for a fish.

332
00:40:00,064 --> 00:40:01,088
A worm, perhaps?

333
00:40:06,737 --> 00:40:09,604
No, the deceiving tongue of a turtle.

334
00:40:38,903 --> 00:40:42,999
And in the sky above the river,
more trouble for a fish.

335
00:40:53,517 --> 00:40:55,212
The kingfisher.

336
00:41:19,243 --> 00:41:21,541
And there's still one left for next time.

337
00:41:24,615 --> 00:41:30,110
The fish eagle is not a diver but a pouncer,
with a marvellously coordinated action.

338
00:41:34,692 --> 00:41:38,992
The aerial onslaught on the fish continues
not only throughout the day but at night.

339
00:41:39,296 --> 00:41:42,129
An owl goes fishing in Africa.

340
00:41:47,371 --> 00:41:50,499
Its legs are bare.
Feathers would drag in the water.

341
00:41:50,674 --> 00:41:55,702
And it has spines on the underside of its toes
which give it a firm grasp on a fish.

342
00:42:28,779 --> 00:42:34,217
In the last phase of their lives,
these great rivers often flow out of control.

343
00:42:34,718 --> 00:42:39,587
Their tributaries in the mountains,
fed by the heavy storms of the rainy season,

344
00:42:39,757 --> 00:42:43,158
pour so much water into them
that they burst their banks.

345
00:42:44,795 --> 00:42:50,028
The Amazon rises every year to flood
tens of thousands of square miles of forest,

346
00:42:50,267 --> 00:42:53,065
in some parts as much as 40 feet deep.

347
00:42:59,410 --> 00:43:03,403
Some of these trees
are flooded for eight to ten months every year.

348
00:43:03,681 --> 00:43:07,583
They need only a few months annually
out of water for them to grow

349
00:43:07,751 --> 00:43:10,185
and for their seeds to sprout.

350
00:43:10,454 --> 00:43:13,048
We still don't know exactly how they manage it.

351
00:43:22,132 --> 00:43:26,967
As the floods well out over the land,
fish from the river travel with them.

352
00:43:27,371 --> 00:43:31,171
This is going to be their best feeding time
in the whole year.

353
00:43:35,946 --> 00:43:38,380
And so it is for other creatures too.

354
00:43:43,887 --> 00:43:48,654
Among the fallen tree leaves
that carpet the bottom lies the mata-mata turtle,

355
00:43:48,826 --> 00:43:52,956
marvellously camouflaged,
waiting for a decent-size fish.

356
00:44:08,545 --> 00:44:14,313
And there are plenty already here, sheltering,
like the turtle, among the still unrotted leaves.

357
00:44:21,492 --> 00:44:24,928
Piranha are here too.
These are not the flesh-eating kind.

358
00:44:25,162 --> 00:44:30,065
Their teeth are used for something different: Frui

359
00:44:47,851 --> 00:44:52,845
As the river becomes older and older,
its riches increase still further.

360
00:44:56,026 --> 00:45:01,362
All over the world as rivers approach their end,
they begin to deposit the sand and mud

361
00:45:01,532 --> 00:45:04,831
that they've gathered from so far
and carried for so long.

362
00:45:05,102 --> 00:45:09,562
In many parts of the world reeds grow thickly
on these shoals and banks,

363
00:45:09,740 --> 00:45:14,541
and their stems collect even more sediment
as the river waters swirl through them.

364
00:45:15,646 --> 00:45:18,979
Living in these dense reed beds
requires considerable skill.

365
00:45:19,349 --> 00:45:22,978
The little bittern is able to find its nest

366
00:45:23,153 --> 00:45:27,487
hidden out of sight somewhere
in this seemingly uniform stretch of reeds.

367
00:45:30,894 --> 00:45:36,230
It regurgitates from its crop
ample supplies of fish and frogs for its young.

368
00:45:48,378 --> 00:45:54,317
Their world is an infinity of vertical stems,
but they're nimble climbers from an early age,

369
00:45:54,485 --> 00:45:57,147
and they leave the nest
within a few days of hatching.

370
00:46:06,864 --> 00:46:12,029
There they wait, almost invisible,
for their parents to return with restocked crops.

371
00:46:31,789 --> 00:46:35,885
The reed-clogged waters of a river delta
are full of potential riches,

372
00:46:36,059 --> 00:46:38,789
not only for birds but for human beings.

373
00:46:39,296 --> 00:46:43,824
The reeds themselves are used
for many purposes, but it's not an easy life here.

374
00:46:44,368 --> 00:46:47,030
Firm land on which to live is hard to find.

375
00:46:47,404 --> 00:46:52,535
In the Danube delta, the few solid sandbanks
are tightly packed with dwellings.

376
00:46:52,843 --> 00:46:58,679
Earth has to be conserved with piles to prevent
a slight change in the current washing it away.

377
00:46:59,249 --> 00:47:05,017
And there's the threat of a rise in the water leve
caused not only by rainstorms upstream

378
00:47:05,189 --> 00:47:09,785
but an unusually high tide,
backed by a storm sweeping up from the sea,

379
00:47:09,960 --> 00:47:12,360
which can cause devastating floods.

380
00:47:14,832 --> 00:47:18,632
In the twin joined deltas
of the Tigris and Euphrates in Iraq,

381
00:47:18,836 --> 00:47:23,239
the marsh Arabs have become specialists
in an amphibian life.

382
00:47:30,714 --> 00:47:34,013
Their houses seem to have
solid enough foundations.

383
00:47:34,384 --> 00:47:38,480
In fact, they are floating on rafts of reeds.

384
00:47:54,905 --> 00:47:57,533
Some are the most elaborate constructions,

385
00:47:57,708 --> 00:48:03,874
yet all these soaring arches and roofs
are also made from bundles of reeds.

386
00:48:04,481 --> 00:48:11,319
And reeds provide food for the livestock, so
gathering them is a daily and never-ending chore.

387
00:48:26,236 --> 00:48:31,435
The herds have to be as much at home in
the water are they are on their floating platforms

388
00:48:41,018 --> 00:48:44,010
The rewards of this precarious existence
are, of course,

389
00:48:44,187 --> 00:48:48,749
the abundant fish which live all around the houses
and even underneath them.

390
00:48:52,663 --> 00:48:58,260
So the fish and the marsh Arabs and the pelicans
all flourish in one integrated community.

391
00:48:58,435 --> 00:49:02,462
The river has delivered the minerals
it eroded from the mountains

392
00:49:02,639 --> 00:49:05,665
and the nutrients it collected from the forests.

393
00:49:06,243 --> 00:49:10,907
They sustain plants which are the food
for small animals which are eaten by fish

394
00:49:11,081 --> 00:49:14,539
and which are gathered by great flocks of birds

395
00:49:14,718 --> 00:49:19,121
that, from the tropics to the Arctic,
are the glories of the deltas.

396
00:49:25,595 --> 00:49:28,962
A blizzard of snow geese in northern Canada.

397
00:49:35,238 --> 00:49:40,540
Across the world in the tropics,
on a delta in Papua New Guinea, magpie geese.

398
00:49:48,719 --> 00:49:51,916
In Australia, brolga cranes.

399
00:49:59,763 --> 00:50:02,596
Scarlet ibis in Venezuela.

400
00:50:04,801 --> 00:50:10,433
Plovers on almost any delta in the world.
And, equally widespread, stilts.

401
00:50:26,223 --> 00:50:28,589
Flamingos in Africa.

402
00:50:38,001 --> 00:50:39,593
And spoonbills.

403
00:50:46,843 --> 00:50:51,644
Of all the deltas in the world,
none is greater than that of the Amazon.

404
00:51:00,157 --> 00:51:02,523
For hundreds of miles along its lower course,

405
00:51:02,726 --> 00:51:07,823
the river has been so broad that it has been
impossible to see from one side to another.

406
00:51:08,331 --> 00:51:13,598
Now, instead of receiving more tributaries,
it splits into a tangle of separate channels.

407
00:51:16,440 --> 00:51:21,901
And on the last firm land on its banks
stands a great and thriving port,

408
00:51:22,412 --> 00:51:26,143
for the river is so wide and deep
that cargo ships from overseas

409
00:51:26,316 --> 00:51:32,778
can use it as a highway that can take them
for 1,000 miles into the heart of South America.

410
00:51:34,658 --> 00:51:37,991
The Amazon's vital statistics are astounding.

411
00:51:38,261 --> 00:51:44,291
At any one time, two thirds of all the river water
in the world is flowing between its banks.

412
00:51:44,601 --> 00:51:50,631
Here at its mouth, at Belem, it's 200 miles across
a maze of channels and islands,

413
00:51:50,907 --> 00:51:54,741
one of which is, alone,
bigger than the whole of Switzerland.

414
00:51:54,911 --> 00:52:01,248
The river maintains its identity far into the sea.
It was because of this that it was discovered.

415
00:52:01,418 --> 00:52:06,355
In 1499 a Spanish sea captain,
sailing well beyond the sight of land,

416
00:52:06,523 --> 00:52:11,654
suddenly became aware that the water
he was crossing was fresh and not salty.

417
00:52:11,862 --> 00:52:15,389
He turned west
and discovered this immense river.

418
00:52:15,632 --> 00:52:20,160
Indeed, it's not until 100 miles
beyond the edge of the continent

419
00:52:20,337 --> 00:52:26,537
that particles of water which fell on the Andes
complete their 4,000-mile-long journey

420
00:52:26,710 --> 00:52:30,146
and mingle with the salt water of the ocean.

421
00:52:35,185 --> 00:52:41,146
But along the coast, where the thrust of the river
flood is not so great, is a halfway house.

422
00:52:41,625 --> 00:52:45,493
Here the water is neither fresh nor salt,
but brackish.

423
00:52:45,729 --> 00:52:49,096
It's neither land nor sea,
but banks of mud and sand

424
00:52:49,266 --> 00:52:52,929
that are half the time submerged
and half the time exposed.

425
00:52:53,170 --> 00:52:58,802
And that intermediate, ever-changing territory
is where we will be next time.

